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Yea, I tried with the first guy on roadside assist but he insisted on towing. I'll give it another shot. Thanks!Just have Tesla service send you a redeploy of software. Ask nice and they can stage it.
You wouldn't be able to put me in touch with the kind forum member who helped out? It seems we've unwittingly found ourselves in the same boat as you.Yes I do have root access now thanks to very kind help from a member on here.
cid-updater had been disabled from running at startup. I have got it running and have now updated the firmware.
Still working through the issues caused by someone who has previously hacked the car. But I will get there eventually!
You are wrong. Can do everything, even v11.You can’t flash that far into the past due to security versions on the ice and the bootloader
Not on any modern cars beyond minor version changesY
You are wrong. Can do everything, even v11.
You dont have my knowlage, and exp.Not on any modern cars beyond minor version changes
DM me how to bypass the fuses on *modern* 3/Y boards then.You dont have my knowlage, and exp.
Just have Tesla service sen
Hi KyleDay,Not too hard really. You need an Ethernet to Fakra 4 pin hsd cable. Then you'll need to plug into the car network and redeploy your firmware so that it upgrades the firmware on your new charge port.
Buy this
Tesla Service Cable Ethernet FakraHSD for Toolbox 1.5ft Model S/X | eBay
Then once you have it, remove the glove box and look at your APE computer behind it. Remove it's white Ethernet cable and connect your new cable to it (this is the Ethernet cable going to your MCU).
Then, plug the Ethernet cable into your laptop and set your laptop ip address on the Ethernet port to 192.168.90.103
Then use a terminal to telnet into your MCU by typing "telnet 192.168.90.100 25956"
Then type "factory-redeploy" and hit enter. Your MCU will turn blue after a few seconds and start the automatic firmware redeploy to all car components. You do NOT need to push any buttons on the MCU to start it. Just wait. It'll reboot a bunch. 45 minutes later it'll be complete and say so, but still be blue.
Restart the MCU by holding down the two steering scroll wheels for a few seconds in order to make the blue screen go away.
You should be done.
hello mate I tried this but I got a connection error Im on MCU1 and Im trying to connect through IC port because it doesnt have a Autopilot computerInteresting. Not quite sure.
Are you inside your car or out? I'd give the car a good hour just in case, then, DON'T EVER PULL THE BATTERY AGAIN during a firmware update!
Once your car is back to usable condition, and if the software update did work, your charger should work.
If not, try this:
1) Reconnect your Ethernet to the APE cable
2) Telnet to 192.168.90.100 25956
3) issue command exactly like this:
factory-redeploy "modules_to_skip":"ic,sierra,ape"
*include the quote marks*
4) leave your laptop connected the whole time
5) watch MCU turn blue but do not touch it, ever. It'll even tell you a software update is ready. Don't touch it. It'll start on its own.
6) once software update is complete, reboot the MCU and you should be good.
I caveat all of the above with "at your own risk" - I'm an armchair Tesla enthusiast, not a trained technical mechanic.
i am wondering if there is a difference between US an European cars.It was such a nice day today, so I decided to replace my old charge port with failing LED lights and cracked plastic.
After wrestling out the charge port door connector and the signal connector I installed the one I bought from Ebay a while ago. After installation all Hell broke loose with following messages.
- Unable to charge - Schedule Service
- Car will not start - Schedule Service
- Car needs Software update - Schedule Service
I suspected that the new charge port, despite being identical part number, needs to be programmed. I had to make a choice now:
- get Tesla Service to come to my driveway - Who knows when available and how costly.
- Re-install the old port and live with the problem.
Then I had a brilliant idea. Since there was nothing wrong with the old internal circuit board why not just take it out and put it into the new port assembly. Should work since it was programmed for the car. So, I did that very carefully and Voila! It worked.
Yup, always stage an update before replacing any electronic part. Or wait for Tesla to send an update, replace part, and then install. Glad your solution worked out for you!It was such a nice day today, so I decided to replace my old charge port with failing LED lights and cracked plastic.
After wrestling out the charge port door connector and the signal connector I installed the one I bought from Ebay a while ago. After installation all Hell broke loose with following messages.
- Unable to charge - Schedule Service
- Car will not start - Schedule Service
- Car needs Software update - Schedule Service
I suspected that the new charge port, despite being identical part number, needs to be programmed. I had to make a choice now:
- get Tesla Service to come to my driveway - Who knows when available and how costly.
- Re-install the old port and live with the problem.
Then I had a brilliant idea. Since there was nothing wrong with the old internal circuit board why not just take it out and put it into the new port assembly. Should work since it was programmed for the car. So, I did that very carefully and Voila! It worked.
Does anyone have a 2020.36.16 or earlier MCU1 image with matching CID/IC + APE2 images?Tesla shut down ability to talk to updater over Ethernet on 2020.48
I do. what version APE2 image do you have installed? and to verify, it's APE2, not 2.5? I've got matching ape2.5 to most of my older MCU1 FWDoes anyone have a 2020.36.16 or earlier MCU1 image with matching CID/IC + APE2 images?
I have 2020.36.16.mcu1 on my CID/IC but I don't have a matching APE2 image and my autopilot now says "software update required" and will not let me use autopilot or even cruise control. I do not want to upgrade my CID/IC higher than 2020.36.16.
correct, APE2 aka 2.0I do. what version APE2 image do you have installed? and to verify, it's APE2, not 2.5? I've got matching ape2.5 to most of my older MCU1 FW