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What Sam1 said. Not as likely to be an issue if you are running 20's either. I have gone to the 20's and when I pulled off my 21's which had new tires put on just before I put in the Macsboost camber kit, they looked barely worn whereas the original tires where likely almost shot at that point based on the fact they only went 5k miles.

If I bought a MS LR or Plaid, and I was running 21's, the first thing I'd do is take care of the rear camber. Actually that would be the 2nd thing. First thing I'd go is go to Discount Tire and buy tire certificates for my tires.
 
Mine were good early on, and by 5k mile they were gone. At 3k miles they didn't look too bad, really pretty normal. I think higher tire pressures might make it worse.
Thanks. I have stayed on the recommended for just that reason. I had about 0.2-0.3bar /2-3PSI more than rec on my M3P, but here it felt better to follow the manual.
 
I will receive my plaid in a couple of weeks and was looking at the different options for camber arms (didn't know there were others than N2itine or MMP)

The macsboost version is a lot cheaper, (250$) but not adjustable is that correct ? or there is the adjustable version at 500$
What can explain the price difference with the others brand ?

I will probably never adjust myself anything so if the cheapest version works why not, I just want to be sure I don't need to replace it or maintaint it often

Thank you
 
My advice is just buy the Macsboost kit and put the money toward something else. It isn't adjustable but does remove about 1 degree of negative camber from the rear. That is about all it takes to eliminate this issue. It is a set it and forget it mod.

I'd suggest an alignment after in case the factory toe is off which will also cause wear. My settings were pretty good from the factory but the alignment made it better and the tracking is better at high speeds too.

If I need to make camber changes all the time, I'd buy the arms but I don't. Keep in mind the rear camber is almost never identical from the factory for both sides. Mine is off by about 0.1 degrees which doesn't really matter. I'd also suggest doing the alignment in the low setting where you spend most of your time on the highway.
 
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They include the instructions with the parts. Basically, loosen 2 bolts, slide the shims in. Some have had to use some leverage to get enough clearance to slide the parts in. Saves a grand vs. buying adjustable camber arms.
 
My advice is just buy the Macsboost kit and put the money toward something else. It isn't adjustable but does remove about 1 degree of negative camber from the rear. That is about all it takes to eliminate this issue. It is a set it and forget it mod.

I'd suggest an alignment after in case the factory toe is off which will also cause wear. My settings were pretty good from the factory but the alignment made it better and the tracking is better at high speeds too.

If I need to make camber changes all the time, I'd buy the arms but I don't. Keep in mind the rear camber is almost never identical from the factory for both sides. Mine is off by about 0.1 degrees which doesn't really matter. I'd also suggest doing the alignment in the low setting where you spend most of your time on the highway.
Thank you very much

easy to do it by yourself ?
 
They include the instructions with the parts. Basically, loosen 2 bolts, slide the shims in. Some have had to use some leverage to get enough clearance to slide the parts in. Saves a grand vs. buying adjustable camber arms.
Yes, it's not a hard install, I can visualize it in my head how it's done. I like to work on my cars, I know this would be a easy job.
I'm just surprised that there's no youtube vids of this install by now. I just like to actually see it done.
 
The UP kit doesn't fix the compression and tension arm bushings. I'm sure they'll come out with something on it soon, but currently MPP is the only option for those 4 arms (I have them, since again, the OEM bushings are trash and all 4 were ripped with less than 30k miles on the plaid).

With the spherical front bushings and toe/camber rear bushings, the car has zero additional NVH. The front ones tightened up the car a bit more than I liked when running the 21", so we compensated for that with an alignment adjustment and now it just holds a line like crazy and no 'dartiness' as someone referred to it as.

That's an actual personal experience, not an assumption.
I want to address the rear toe and camber "issue" on my 2023 MSP. I don't want to lower my car unless there is an obvious reason to do it to make life easier on my half shafts. My car is less than 2K miles young.

On the N2itive site it reads as such:

"For the 2021+ model S and X Teslas the kit will come with our RSX series lowering links and our new SX-P2 rear adjustable camber arms. The 2021+ kits do not come with adjustable rear toe arms sine the OEM rear toe arms are already adjustable."

So if I opt out of the lowering links and just replace with the adjustable rear camber arms, am I good to go or is their description incorrect in that there's no factory rear toe adjustment on the 2021+ MSP?

Danke.
 
I want to address the rear toe and camber "issue" on my 2023 MSP. I don't want to lower my car unless there is an obvious reason to do it to make life easier on my half shafts. My car is less than 2K miles young.

On the N2itive site it reads as such:

"For the 2021+ model S and X Teslas the kit will come with our RSX series lowering links and our new SX-P2 rear adjustable camber arms. The 2021+ kits do not come with adjustable rear toe arms sine the OEM rear toe arms are already adjustable."

So if I opt out of the lowering links and just replace with the adjustable rear camber arms, am I good to go or is their description incorrect in that there's no factory rear toe adjustment on the 2021+ MSP?

Danke.
The toe is adjustable on refresh, thats the reason you wont get the
adjustable rear toe arms

The lowering links can be set to the same height as the stock height, so I guess if you decide to need them the complete package is the best choice (money wise).

I’m wating out my tyres. Had them loose for check last weekend and they still look very good with no tendency to wear uneven.
The idea is, if possible to stay stock for half shaft issues, but if I need I’ll go with the complete kit. (Except the adjustable toe arms, of course).
 
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I'm trying to nail down if it's worth getting the lowering links and lowering just enough to reduce the angles on the half shafts compared to riding in low mode bone stock. I do not like the idea of lowering for lowering's sake on an air suspension system to retain factory ride quality and longevity.

I'm clear now that I don't need the toe arms since factory offers toe adjustment, though I certainly wouldn't mind have a better toe bushing option given how much deflection the factory bushings experience on acceleration per @Sam1.
 
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