This has nothing to do with battery health, and doesn't even accurately represent the usable energy. It's from a third party tool that uses the Tesla mobile API.
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HV Battery Died with 7 miles range left showing on Range display
- Thread starter Evolutis
- Start date
Oh, I keep on seeing that screen in posts here. What's that tool?
Looks interesting, but you say it's not accurate?
There are several third party apps, but you just got your car. I HIGHLY HIGHLY encourage you not to load a bunch of third party apps because you are going to get a bunch of data, and its probably going to stress you out with things like "how your car is performing vs the rest of the fleet" and battery degradation, which may or may not be accurate.
If you still want to go down that road, just search tmc for "third party apps", I am sure several threads will come up. The most popular are TeslaFi, Stats, Teslamate, ScanMyTesla, WatchforTesla, but there are plenty of others.
So I don’t want to stir the pot, I have no position, and I most certainly don’t have any answers. These things said, the below link seems to contradict some of the thread contents.
WK, let me apologize in advance: I mean no disrespect. I bumped into this researching range test and Tesla appears to be arguing. I’m infantile in my understanding of a BMS, so maybe I‘m missing.
WK, let me apologize in advance: I mean no disrespect. I bumped into this researching range test and Tesla appears to be arguing. I’m infantile in my understanding of a BMS, so maybe I‘m missing.
Testing Tesla's Range Anxiety: Tesla Model Y, Model 3, VW ID.4, Ford Mach-E | Edmunds
When we published our real-world Edmunds EV range test, Tesla challenged our finding that its vehicles fell short of their EPA range estimates. Was the challenge valid? Here's the test we conducted to find out.
www.edmunds.com
If you don't exceed 55% SoC, you aren't allowing the BMS to balance the batteries. Go to go well above 90% for the cells to balance.
SoC is ALWAYS a guess. If you charge it to 50% and it's hot outside, it will decrease as the battery cools.
Seriously, you may want to think about it. And if you haven't done it, expect it to take many hours to balance, the batteries are probably way off at this point.
Is that balancing done automatically when you charge to 90% or above? Or is that something you need to initiate every so often? I have not seen any reference to this in the manual.
brainhouston
Active Member
sorry to sidetrack but since this been brought up...
I don't think Mods do a good job at it. I've been 'bombed' before n flagged the post twice with a short message to mods to get their attention n nothing happened...
Glad the policy changed but i honestly don't care either way, smart ppl can tell if the 'disagree' is legit or not
brainhouston
Active Member
Can u explain this more n why BMS would need that?
I'm pretty sure you or maybe someone else mentioned that BMS does not get power from HV (and HV is isolated on pcb) n needs 12v to run itself..
E90alex
Active Member
This entire thread is based on the fact the HV battery was dead for OP well before 0%/0mi indicated. So no, you cannot expect or rely on the fact that there’s any additional usable energy beyond 0% indicated. Indeed, you might not even get to 0% if the BMS is way out of calibration.
Balancing the batteries is a pretty simple concept. It's basically charging the batteries up to full voltage and letting them drink in the current until they are absolutely and completely full. Only then does the BMS really know what 100% is. That's one of their calibration points.
Full voltage represents fully charged, hence the charge to 100% and let it sit.
But instead of taking to 100% just to recalibrate the BMS, the BEST thing to do is to charge to 100% and take a long trip. Like the manual says, it's okay to charge to 100% for a trip.
But remember what the manual actually says. Not much really, except for
"Model 3 has one of the most sophisticated battery systems in the world. The most important way to preserve the high voltage Battery is to LEAVE YOUR VEHICLE PLUGGED IN when you are not using it."
And for LFP batteries
If your vehicle is equipped with an LFP Battery, Tesla recommends that you keep your charge limit set to 100%, even for daily use, and that you also fully charge to 100% at least once per week. If Model 3 has been parked for longer than a week, Tesla recommends driving as you normally would and charge to 100% at your earliest convenience.
In the app or car, you'll see the tick marks that are recommended for charging levels.
So yes, the manual doesn't mention it. But unlike what many say, it does indicate that charging to 100% is okay. And it's okay to leave at 100% for hours. The car will let you know that it isn't recommended to charge to 100% every day though.
E90alex
Active Member
Almost a year with my 22 Model 3 LR and ~8000 miles. Typically sits at 35-40% after use and charged to 50% daily. Rarely down into 20s.
No issues with BMS calibration drift here. 50% charge always indicated 179 miles range. Charged to 100% on a trip for the first time since purchase (Tesla charged to 100% for delivery) and it indicated 358 mi range. Only sat at 100% balancing for like 30 min or less.
I would say that you there is ways to detect when the BMS is "off track". Not during a specific drive, but in general we can keep track of this.
When at sleep the true SOC can be measured, but when driving the displayed SOC is a running estimate (calculation) from the known SOC before the drive.
This estimate is initial remaning energy (moninal remaining as per SMT data) minus the consumed energy which gives as the new remaning energy. Divided by the estimated capacity (nominal full pack as per SMT) we get a estimated SOC).
When the BMS is perfectly on track, the estimate and the real SOC is more or less the same.
But if we have a overestimated battery capacity the estimated SOC when parking is too high, and after a short period of time (like 15-20 minutes after parking), we can re-check the displayed SOC and it will have decreased as the overestimation causes a underestimation of the used percentage of the SOC.
This is the other way around with a underestimation. The SOC will then instead increase after the drive.
For charging, the opposite to above happens, charging is estimated by BMS "To charge complete" so a underestimation results in a overshoot in charging and vice versa.
Looking at the SOC graph in for example Teslafi show clearly if we have a over- och underestimation.
I did use that principle fot my model 3 when the BMS somehow was very off, showing 75.7 kWh nominal full pack (a sudden drop that afterwards recovered), and found the capacity to be close to 79 kWh. I did a 100-0% drive (using Scan my tesla and teslalogger for all data) and found the capacity to be 79kWh.
For my new Plaid, it showed NFP 95.3kWh when I got it, but the same calculation as per above said 98.0kWh. After 3-4 weeks the NFP entered 98kWh and has stayed there.
Marks321
Member
On my way home today I ran out of power had a bad spot about 2.3 miles from home. I had 7 miles left according to the screen but was losing the ability to accelerate and then had a vehicle shutting down screen… it was 55° out slightly cool but not the freezing temperatures that caused this problem once before when it only had 2 miles left and was cutting it close… I didn’t think I was cutting it close today was 7 miles remaining and only 2 miles to go but alas, I had to get towed and pay $175 to learn this lesson
Little frustrated.
Car is September 2020 long range Y with 162.25 thousand miles.
Three error messages presented
VC feont a192
Bms a069
Bms a162
Would not go into drive or neutral.
I was able to get into tow mode
Literally across the street from my local Wawa supercharger as seen in background of one photo
Feeling very frustrated
and dumb but also wish the car would have told me sooner there would be an issue. I could have gone slower or stopped to charge.
I commute 186 miles a day. Usually 90 perfect is enough. Today I left with about 95 %
Little frustrated.
Car is September 2020 long range Y with 162.25 thousand miles.
Three error messages presented
VC feont a192
Bms a069
Bms a162
Would not go into drive or neutral.
I was able to get into tow mode
Literally across the street from my local Wawa supercharger as seen in background of one photo
Feeling very frustrated
and dumb but also wish the car would have told me sooner there would be an issue. I could have gone slower or stopped to charge.I commute 186 miles a day. Usually 90 perfect is enough. Today I left with about 95 %
Hate to state the obvious, but it looks like you should either be charging full or plan a charging stop somewhere in between. It's probably battery degradation and some BMS inaccuracies, but I think you're trying to apply an estimate of battery (7 miles left) as to an exact measurement. Hopefully there's a place on your commute where you can get a quick splash n dash.
Ciaopec
Active Member
Agree ^^^
Try using Battery percentage rather than milage estimate. I find it more accurate.
Try using Battery percentage rather than milage estimate. I find it more accurate.
Marks321
Member
I merged your new thread with this one since it was the same topic, and already has a lot of feedback on it. Its somewhat interesting to me that the OP of this thread had the exact same amount of miles left as you (7).
In any case, there is a lot of feedback in this thread on the situation. You have one heck of a commute, and have already passed the battery warranty due to miles driven, so hopefully you dont have a battery issue that necessitates replacement.
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