It worked for a few days; then stopped.
I reprogram it and it works for maybe a day, no more.
I even deleted all settings and reprogrammed the remote (weird but when I delete settings it starts working
); lasts less than a day.
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Homelink — Change Transmit Mode
- Thread starter Musterion
- Start date
It worked for a few days; then stopped.
I reprogram it and it works for maybe a day, no more.
I even deleted all settings and reprogrammed the remote (weird but when I delete settings it starts working
); lasts less than a day.
Yeah, next time just reboot and see if that fixes it. It should. Until it breaks again.It worked for a few days; then stopped.
I reprogram it and it works for maybe a day, no more.
I even deleted all settings and reprogrammed the remote (weird but when I delete settings it starts working
@boaterva Thanks for checking the “Default Receiver” mode. Lacking any documentation I also have no idea what that mode is doing, but you saved me from wasting more time on trying it and it seems not useful for general application. (If I had to guess, perhaps that is for communicating with a “Homelink Receiver” that they offer which acts as a middleman between transmitter and garage opener).
That makes sense. I’ve seen mention of such a middleman receiver but it’s still weird we don’t need to program the ‘remote’. As you say, perhaps in that case, *that* receiver is programmed with the ‘remote’s’ information.
I got a call from my local Tesla Service Center Manager today confirming an appointment.
But while I had him on the phone I asked him about this…
He said that the transmit mode options have actually always been there. Nothing new.
The options were just hidden because it was some sort of weird drop down menu.
The only change was how it displays.
When I asked him what the difference was, he said one was for rolling codes, although he didn’t remember which one.
He said he advised his customers to try the other option if standard doesn’t work.
So I’m guessing that standard is rolling and default receiver is a legacy frequency or something of that sort.
That makes sense since it doesn’t even ask for your remote transmitter to be learned. I wonder where the option was hidden!
This excerpt from the Model S Manual may be useful for those who are having issues.
Resetting the Location
of the HomeLink Device
If you experience situations in which you sometimes drive up to your HomeLink Device and it doesn't open, or the HomeLink icon on the touchscreen's status bar does not display the dropdown when you approach the device, you may need to reset the device's location. To do so, park as close as possible to the HomeLink device (garage door, gate, etc.) and display the HomeLink settings page by touching Controls > Settings > HomeLink. Choose the name of the programmed device, and touch Reset Location.
Resetting the Location
of the HomeLink Device
If you experience situations in which you sometimes drive up to your HomeLink Device and it doesn't open, or the HomeLink icon on the touchscreen's status bar does not display the dropdown when you approach the device, you may need to reset the device's location. To do so, park as close as possible to the HomeLink device (garage door, gate, etc.) and display the HomeLink settings page by touching Controls > Settings > HomeLink. Choose the name of the programmed device, and touch Reset Location.
People have done this, it has nothing to do with the 'not transmitting' issue once it breaks. Homelink on the car is not transmitting at all, as we can see by the absence of the 'wifi' symbol in the HL dropdown when you press the name of your created HL location/item to attempt to send a signal.
Tesla has said it's broken and will be fixed in an upcoming release. The only fix that usually works is to reboot the MCU via the scroll wheel method.
LJ32
Member
Just an update to this thread. Software v 2017.38 f87c64d5 was updated last night to 2017.40.1 e29b97f. I am out of town (driving MB S550e) for the next couple of weeks so I cannot comment on the changes. If anyone else has received this new 2017.40.1 update, perhaps they can comment if Homelink performance improves. The only issue we have had with our MX 100D delivered on 9/29 with the .38 version has been Homelink stops working and music resume stops working. Now that we have received our first over the air update, we really feel like Tesla owners.
Over a dozen people on ev-fw and TeslaFi have 17.40.1 already, it's the AEB update that also does the (other) Homelink changes and camping for Climate (keeping it on 'legally') We're waiting to see if it also fixes this bug we've been discussing for the last week.
Since it enables AEB for 2.5 cars, we figure it will be a quick rollout, but who knows.
Tesla is releasing software update with new convenience features, enabling ‘real camper mode’
We're waiting to see if it also fixes this bug we've been discussing for the last week.Since it enables AEB for 2.5 cars, we figure it will be a quick rollout, but who knows.
Tesla is releasing software update with new convenience features, enabling ‘real camper mode’
LJ32
Member
Thanks for the update, good to know. I wish TMC was as up to date as the link you provided. I noticed that no one has commented yet on any improvements to Homelink performance. Keep us informed.Over a dozen people on ev-fw and TeslaFi have 17.40.1 already, it's the AEB update that also does the (other) Homelink changes and camping for Climate (keeping it on 'legally')
Since it enables AEB for 2.5 cars, we figure it will be a quick rollout, but who knows.
Tesla is releasing software update with new convenience features, enabling ‘real camper mode’
Well, there are several threads on HL, then one that came from the EAB update, then others from the actual Firmware 17.40.1... this place needs a fulltime librarian.
Some people with the issue have the new release, but not to have tested it enough to conclusively say it fixes *this* bug. My car is in the SC for other issues, so, I can't even push buttons for a while (and the loaner hasn't received it yet...).
Thanks for the confirmation. It was probably was too much to hope for as it came out too quickly. We now have 17.41 appearing which might do the trick!
Plugsuvohio
Member
l'm trying to follow all this and not getting it. My MX is a year old, AP1 and this strange stuff has just happened this past week with a software update. Does that make sense? Its not just AP2
There are a number of Homelink threads.... this one was about an option we thought was new, one Tesla service person said it was always there ‘somewhere’ and seems to be not related to the recent issues.
Looks like around 17.34 Homelink started having issues with consistently working. This is not related to AP version or hardware that we’re aware.
@Plugsuvohio what actual issues with Homelink are you experiencing? As far as is known right now, Tesla is aware and has said a fix is coming and it’s not out yet (unless it’s in 17.41 but we only have one car reporting between ev-fw and TeslaFi and no release notes I’ve seen...).
Scrith
Member
Just adding my $0.02...I've never had a problem with HomeLink in my X (well, sometimes I had to manually hit it again because the car was slightly too far away when it went off while returning home), until I got an update on Saturday! Now it is almost completely broken, desptire re-programming it (for the first time since I received the vehicle more than one year ago) twice!
So something certainly seems to have broken in the X software recently (which really makes you wonder...if you can't trust their software for something like a garage door opener, how on Earth can you ever trust it for something like autopilot?).
So something certainly seems to have broken in the X software recently (which really makes you wonder...if you can't trust their software for something like a garage door opener, how on Earth can you ever trust it for something like autopilot?).
Seems like a random problem.
Perhaps the Version of Tesla Hardware is not the major factor on whether people are having issues. I have had no issues on my MS 90D AP2. (2017.40.1 e29b97f) also no issues with prior firmware versions including 2017.28, 2017.32, 2017.34 & 2017.36
I’m starting to wonder if the garage door opener hardware is the difference.
Maybe we can find some something in common with setups that are working and distinctly different from setups that aren’t.
I’ll start...
I am successfully controlling 3 identical doors equipped as follows:
Chamberlain Model HD800D 1/2 HP
Originally - Security +
Upgraded for MyQ with installation of:
Liftmaster 888LM Security+ 2.0 MyQ Wall Control Upgrades Previous Models 1998 (and later) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B8BFG0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_B0w5zbDENMMH5
Perhaps the Version of Tesla Hardware is not the major factor on whether people are having issues. I have had no issues on my MS 90D AP2. (2017.40.1 e29b97f) also no issues with prior firmware versions including 2017.28, 2017.32, 2017.34 & 2017.36
I’m starting to wonder if the garage door opener hardware is the difference.
Maybe we can find some something in common with setups that are working and distinctly different from setups that aren’t.
I’ll start...
I am successfully controlling 3 identical doors equipped as follows:
Chamberlain Model HD800D 1/2 HP
Originally - Security +
Upgraded for MyQ with installation of:
Liftmaster 888LM Security+ 2.0 MyQ Wall Control Upgrades Previous Models 1998 (and later) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B8BFG0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_B0w5zbDENMMH5
Here’s a twist.
I had changed the Homelink distance from 70 (default?) to 50 feet (new option in 2017.40) just to see the effect.
When I returned home, the garage door didn’t open. Tried pressing manually at close range. No luck.Then, I tried the other 2 doors with no success. Instead of restetting, I tried powering down in E-Brake/Power off. Then I pressed the brake pedal to power up again.
That fixed it. Probably quicker than resetting. It will be interesting to see if it reoccurs.
I had changed the Homelink distance from 70 (default?) to 50 feet (new option in 2017.40) just to see the effect.
When I returned home, the garage door didn’t open. Tried pressing manually at close range. No luck.Then, I tried the other 2 doors with no success. Instead of restetting, I tried powering down in E-Brake/Power off. Then I pressed the brake pedal to power up again.
That fixed it. Probably quicker than resetting. It will be interesting to see if it reoccurs.
Why would the hardware of the receiver be the common factor when it all worked for people consistently before new firmware?
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