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Gen 1 High Power Wall Charger - TPN 1011831-00-D won't charge 2023 MY?

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MDR SEA

15 MS 85D, 16 MX 90D, 23 MY, Retired ICE Wrench
Dec 29, 2016
243
159
Pac NW
Hello all,

I have a Gen 1 destination charger that I can't get to charge my 2023 MY.
I saw an earlier post regarding this issue with a similar charger TPN 1011831-99-B where they were able to resolve the issue with dip switch settings.
Does anyone know if I would have the same success with my TPN 1011831-00-D charger?
Or is there a list online for the dip switch settings?

Thank for any help.
MDR
 

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No. This is a used charger. It's wired through a 50A breaker.
Thanks for the manual and the advice.
I'll flip the dip switch to the 50A config and see how that works.

MDR
 
I have a Gen 1 destination charger that I can't get to charge my 2023 MY.
Ah, yep. I recognize this problem instantly, and it's probably only the real old timers on this forum who will remember it because it was so long ago. It was first discovered in about 2018. Tesla started using a newer something in the cars' computers that straight up had an incompatibility with the old Gen 1 wall connectors. All of the newer cars just couldn't work on old Gen 1 wall connectors. The Gen 2 & 3 wall connectors are fully forward and backward compatible with all cars.

Tesla never made any kind of fix for this. Even all of the hotels in the Destination Charging program that had Gen 1 wall connectors installed were told they needed to just replace them with Gen 2 wall connectors if they wanted anyone with newer cars to be able to use them. Here's a post with some links to other threads about this:

 
Ah, yep. I recognize this problem instantly, and it's probably only the real old timers on this forum who will remember it because it was so long ago. It was first discovered in about 2018. Tesla started using a newer something in the cars' computers that straight up had an incompatibility with the old Gen 1 wall connectors. All of the newer cars just couldn't work on old Gen 1 wall connectors. The Gen 2 & 3 wall connectors are fully forward and backward compatible with all cars.

Tesla never made any kind of fix for this. Even all of the hotels in the Destination Charging program that had Gen 1 wall connectors installed were told they needed to just replace them with Gen 2 wall connectors if they wanted anyone with newer cars to be able to use them. Here's a post with some links to other threads about this:

Thing is, I have an actual original gen 1 Wall Connector that doesn't have the 90A circuit setting, so it really is an original, original. My 2021 Model Y, 2022 Model X and 2023 Model S (all LR) all work with it. Maybe only those cars that have a 32A charger in them don't work with it?
 
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Thing is, I have an actual original gen 1 Wall Connector that doesn't have the 90A circuit setting, so it really is an original, original. My 2021 Model Y, 2022 Model X and 2023 Model S (all LR) all work with it. Maybe only those cars that have a 32A charger in them don't work with it?
How does one tell if it's a original Gen 1 vs the later Gen 1? I bought a secondhand Gen 1 back in 2019, and I did download a couple of different manuals I found online - I notice now that one manual doesn't show a 90A dipswitch setting, the other does. But since I've only used mine at 24A (30A breaker) and 32A (40A breaker), and those dipswitch settings were the same in both manuals, I'm not sure which version I have.

I'm curious to know what I have, as I'll possibly be purchasing a 2024 Model Y later this year, and want to ascertain as much as possible whether it will work with my Gen 1 charger or not. The Gen 1 has worked problem-free for years with a 2016 Model S as well as a 2018 Model 3 - would be a real bummer if it's not compatible with newer Tesla's.
 
Ah, yep. I recognize this problem instantly, and it's probably only the real old timers on this forum who will remember it because it was so long ago. It was first discovered in about 2018. Tesla started using a newer something in the cars' computers that straight up had an incompatibility with the old Gen 1 wall connectors. All of the newer cars just couldn't work on old Gen 1 wall connectors. The Gen 2 & 3 wall connectors are fully forward and backward compatible with all cars.

Tesla never made any kind of fix for this. Even all of the hotels in the Destination Charging program that had Gen 1 wall connectors installed were told they needed to just replace them with Gen 2 wall connectors if they wanted anyone with newer cars to be able to use them.

Whelp, I failed to fish electrical to my breaker panel over the weekend, and figured no big deal since I have 2 EVSEs I can use on either 120v, or my 240v dryer outlet.

Both EVSEs are GEN I Leaf that I modified to work on 120v or 240v. They charge a Toyota Prius and Nissan Leaf just fine. The Model Y hates it for some reason, on 120v or 240v. Sounds like whatever issue you're referring to.

Don't know why it wouldn't work with older EVSEs considering J1772 defines the specifications and protocols. If something is compatible with the standard, it should work, just like I can plug a USB 1.0 mouse into a USB 3.0 port and it works perfectly.

Anyhow, the pressure is on for me to somehow pull 6 gauge wire from the attic to my extremely full breaker panel. I'd rather not cut into my drywall or run external conduit to complete the project.
 
How does one tell if it's a original Gen 1 vs the later Gen 1? I bought a secondhand Gen 1 back in 2019, and I did download a couple of different manuals I found online - I notice now that one manual doesn't show a 90A dipswitch setting, the other does. But since I've only used mine at 24A (30A breaker) and 32A (40A breaker), and those dipswitch settings were the same in both manuals, I'm not sure which version I have.

I'm curious to know what I have, as I'll possibly be purchasing a 2024 Model Y later this year, and want to ascertain as much as possible whether it will work with my Gen 1 charger or not. The Gen 1 has worked problem-free for years with a 2016 Model S as well as a 2018 Model 3 - would be a real bummer if it's not compatible with newer Tesla's.
No one has figured out what the specific compatibility issue is, or if there even is one. It could be as simple as these 10+ year old EVSEs are falling out of spec and some cars are more sensitive to the slightly out of spec EVSEs. Any power electronics this old is living on borrowed time.

The reason I know my EVSE is a first generation gen 1 is that I kept the manual and it doesn't have the 90A dip switch setting like the second version 1 does.

FWIW, my part number is 1011831-00-D
 
No one has figured out what the specific compatibility issue is, or if there even is one. It could be as simple as these 10+ year old EVSEs are falling out of spec and some cars are more sensitive to the slightly out of spec EVSEs. Any power electronics this old is living on borrowed time.

The reason I know my EVSE is a first generation gen 1 is that I kept the manual and it doesn't have the 90A dip switch setting like the second version 1 does.

FWIW, my part number is 1011831-00-D

The J1772 spec is so dead simple though. The EVSE advertises its capabilities with a resistor, which the charger measures and understands the max charge rating is. Then the charger initiates charging at or below that advertised capability. These things are barely more complicated than an extension cord.
 
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The J1772 spec is so dead simple though. The EVSE advertises its capabilities with a resistor, which the charger measures and understands the max charge rating is. Then the charger initiates charging at or below that advertised capability. These things are barely more complicated than an extension cord.
It's a little more complicated than that. The ESVE advertises itself with a 1kHz PWM square wave as indicated in the chart below. Perhaps you are thinking of how the Tesla UMC knows the current rating of the adapter it has plugged into it, that uses a resistor.

Screenshot from 2022-04-09 15-13-10.png
 
I'm clearly senile, but that's still a dead simple circuit that high schoolers would make. The point is, if something adheres to the J1772 protocol, then it should just work. That's the point of adherence to a protocol.
 
I'm clearly senile, but that's still a dead simple circuit that high schoolers would make. The point is, if something adheres to the J1772 protocol, then it should just work. That's the point of adherence to a protocol.
You’re missing the point that the protocol is an analog protocol whose timing is usually done via resistors and capacitors which do age, as do solder joints, power supply stability, etc.
 
Thing is, I have an actual original gen 1 Wall Connector that doesn't have the 90A circuit setting, so it really is an original, original. My 2021 Model Y, 2022 Model X and 2023 Model S (all LR) all work with it. Maybe only those cars that have a 32A charger in them don't work with it?
Wow, well this thread has gotten interesting. You're another longtimer here. How did we never hear of this before? I had temporarily forgotten there were two versions of the Gen1, and from the many threads on this around 2018 through 2021-ish, the best we knew was that none of the Gen1 could every work with ANY of the new cars. This is the very first time I'm hearing of it working ever. So that's wild. Maybe it's a difference of only one of the Gen1 types working, and the other is incompatible?

Whelp, I failed to fish electrical to my breaker panel over the weekend, and figured no big deal since I have 2 EVSEs I can use on either 120v, or my 240v dryer outlet.

Both EVSEs are GEN I Leaf that I modified to work on 120v or 240v. They charge a Toyota Prius and Nissan Leaf just fine. The Model Y hates it for some reason, on 120v or 240v. Sounds like whatever issue you're referring to.

Don't know why it wouldn't work with older EVSEs considering J1772 defines the specifications and protocols.
Heh, well, no it's not the issue I was referring to, because I'm talking about specifically Tesla's wall connector, not just old EVSE's in general. You have just brought up a totally different separate issue that was unique to the old charging cables that specifically came with the Nissan LEAF. They did not comply with the J1772 fully or properly, so some EVs would tolerate it, but the Teslas wouldn't. Here is a post about that:


"Yeah, those old Nissan EVSEs (made by Aerovironment) didn't have the negative half of the pilot signal. Most cars don't care, but some do, like Teslas. This used to cause owners problems."


No one has figured out what the specific compatibility issue is, or if there even is one.
Well, we do and we don't. Tesla made a switch to a different MCU or processor of some kind in the car at that time and acknowledged that the cars that were built with the new one would not work with the old wall connectors. It was something about communication or signal timing, but I don't think we have enough specific information in that area to say precisely exactly what this incompatibility is.

It could be as simple as these 10+ year old EVSEs are falling out of spec and some cars are more sensitive to the slightly out of spec EVSEs.

No, it's definitely not about 10 year old anything, because this showed up very suddenly in 2018/2019, when these things weren't very old, and it was very easy to observe with the old Gen1 wall connectors at hotels. All of the old cars continued to work fine without a hitch, and all of the newly built cars just could not work with them.

My theory on what has happened is that we have finally come back around on the computer systems that are in the cars. Tesla has changed the MCUs and redesigned things a few times, and maybe this issue hasn't been revisited and tested again in quite a while. We had a long period of several years of cars that would not work with the Gen1 wall connectors, but maybe something in the even newer generation of computers in the more recent years and models does have compatibility with them again.
 
Whelp, I failed to fish electrical to my breaker panel over the weekend, and figured no big deal since I have 2 EVSEs I can use on either 120v, or my 240v dryer outlet.

Both EVSEs are GEN I Leaf that I modified to work on 120v or 240v. They charge a Toyota Prius and Nissan Leaf just fine. The Model Y hates it for some reason, on 120v or 240v. Sounds like whatever issue you're referring to.

Don't know why it wouldn't work with older EVSEs considering J1772 defines the specifications and protocols. If something is compatible with the standard, it should work, just like I can plug a USB 1.0 mouse into a USB 3.0 port and it works perfectly.

Anyhow, the pressure is on for me to somehow pull 6 gauge wire from the attic to my extremely full breaker panel. I'd rather not cut into my drywall or run external conduit to complete the project.
Well, I happen to know what the problem is here. The control pilot is the signal that tells the car what the max amperage the EVSE can deliver is. It is supposed to be a square wave at 1kHz between -12v and 12v. The early Nissan EVSEs (and a few others) didn't bother with the negative swing and output a signal between 0v and 12v. Many cars are happy to accept this, but Teslas have never accepted it.

Technically, Tesla is correct not to do so. Anyway, they are simply incompatible.
 
Well, I happen to know what the problem is here. The control pilot is the signal that tells the car what the max amperage the EVSE can deliver is. It is supposed to be a square wave at 1kHz between -12v and 12v. The early Nissan EVSEs (and a few others) didn't bother with the negative swing and output a signal between 0v and 12v. Many cars are happy to accept this, but Teslas have never accepted it.

Technically, Tesla is correct not to do so. Anyway, they are simply incompatible.
Super informative, thank you!

So those old EVSEs are the thing not adhering to the J1772 design architecture, and not Tesla.

...I've got an endoscope arriving today, so hopefully that will allow me to fish the pull string to my breaker panel, otherwise I'll either need to cut my wall open, or charge somewhere else in the meantime.

I had temporarily forgotten there were two versions of the Gen1, and from the many threads on this around 2018 through 2021-ish, the best we knew was that none of the Gen1 could every work with ANY of the new cars.

The 2011 and 2012 Leaf had one style of EVSE (which is they style I have), and in 2013 they modified it slightly. I don't know if the 2013+ also cut off the negative portion of the square wave like the prior units. Those units could be modified for 240v also, but involved a slightly different process.
 
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Super informative, thank you!

So those old EVSEs are the thing not adhering to the J1772 design architecture, and not Tesla.

...I've got an endoscope arriving today, so hopefully that will allow me to fish the pull string to my breaker panel, otherwise I'll either need to cut my wall open, or charge somewhere else in the meantime.



The 2011 and 2012 Leaf had one style of EVSE (which is they style I have), and in 2013 they modified it slightly. I don't know if the 2013+ also cut off the negative portion of the square wave like the prior units. Those units could be modified for 240v also, but involved a slightly different process.
You're confusing the thread by mixing issues with old Tesla wall connectors (what the thread is about) and old Nissan EVSEs. You answered @Rocky_H 's comment about Tesla EVSEs with Nissan info. We should probably just drop the Nissan talk.