Hello,
After my car broke down in late January this year and the only solution from Tesla was a new battery (which the car is not worth), the solution for me was to try to fix this myself.
Got help from a local company to dismantle the battery from the car, picked it up on a trailer for further fixing. Found, as feared, water that has penetrated via the cover over the main fuse. Bought new parts, pulled out all 16 modules and dried out all the moisture.
Assembled everything again and transported battery back to same company. Battery was installed in car and everything seemed to work during test. After the test, the last covers and bolts were mounted on the car with a nut driver, the car was possibly exposed to some vibrations during this work. When the car starts up after this, various error codes suddenly appear which, to me, mean that the battery has lost communication between the BMS and a BMB on a module. As you can see in the picture, no data is now read from any modules when the company connects with diagnostics on the car. Now I have started looking for the famous needle in the haystack. Is this due to a plug / connector that has come loose or is it just a coincidence that a BMB dies at this very moment...
Can someone help with what diagnostic equipment Software / hardware / type of contact I need to connect to BMB (the card on the modules see attached picture)?
Can I get away with just a voltmeter and read directly on this 10 pin connector? I think I should read V on 6 cell banks + 2 temp sensors, but is there also a canbus signal? Can someone confirm? Does anyone have a connection diagram for the internal wiring in the battery / an overview of the connection to the aforementioned 10-pole connector?
As you can see, I have now cut out small square holes over the contact to each module, the plan is to connect with the right equipment to find the module that is failing.
And for everyone who has a 2013 - 2016 Model S, you have to remove the battery and replace the cover over the fuse. Tesla has actually managed to make this in black steel. Holes in lids are rusting and every week several cars / batteries go black due to this now. it is a lot of work and expensive to fix once the damage has occurred. Umbrellavalves must also be changed under the package
Hope someone can help 
After my car broke down in late January this year and the only solution from Tesla was a new battery (which the car is not worth), the solution for me was to try to fix this myself.
Got help from a local company to dismantle the battery from the car, picked it up on a trailer for further fixing. Found, as feared, water that has penetrated via the cover over the main fuse. Bought new parts, pulled out all 16 modules and dried out all the moisture.
Assembled everything again and transported battery back to same company. Battery was installed in car and everything seemed to work during test. After the test, the last covers and bolts were mounted on the car with a nut driver, the car was possibly exposed to some vibrations during this work. When the car starts up after this, various error codes suddenly appear which, to me, mean that the battery has lost communication between the BMS and a BMB on a module. As you can see in the picture, no data is now read from any modules when the company connects with diagnostics on the car. Now I have started looking for the famous needle in the haystack. Is this due to a plug / connector that has come loose or is it just a coincidence that a BMB dies at this very moment...
Can someone help with what diagnostic equipment Software / hardware / type of contact I need to connect to BMB (the card on the modules see attached picture)?
Can I get away with just a voltmeter and read directly on this 10 pin connector? I think I should read V on 6 cell banks + 2 temp sensors, but is there also a canbus signal? Can someone confirm? Does anyone have a connection diagram for the internal wiring in the battery / an overview of the connection to the aforementioned 10-pole connector?
As you can see, I have now cut out small square holes over the contact to each module, the plan is to connect with the right equipment to find the module that is failing.
And for everyone who has a 2013 - 2016 Model S, you have to remove the battery and replace the cover over the fuse. Tesla has actually managed to make this in black steel. Holes in lids are rusting and every week several cars / batteries go black due to this now. it is a lot of work and expensive to fix once the damage has occurred. Umbrellavalves must also be changed under the package
Hope someone can help 
