Decided to post this as a separate thread since there's multiple related threads with slight differences.
Preamble
The Problem: My 2019 Model 3 LR AWD started to make more noise a few months ago, during and after a long road trip. I've always had the "beeping" noises and the "acceleration" noises, and some "regen" noises at low speeds. However, a new constant-ish pitch started showing up between 61-69km/h (38-43mph). It eventually became so loud that I could hear it over music and podcasts.
The Idea: I noticed in various threads, some people had the issue fixed when a ground strap was replaced. Some also with whole drive unit swaps (and the rear motor comes with a new ground strap, I believe). "That's ridiculous", I thought, "I'll just snug up the connection".
The Do-Not: Don't go to your local Tesla Service and say "Hey, camalaio did this and it worked, can you do it to my car?". For one, this was a shot in the dark that happened to work. For two, every car could have a different problem, and I'd probably direct you to listen to your local Service team's recommendations. If you've lost hope after genuinely trying to make progress though, this helped me, and might help you.
Precautions
This is in no way an official or recommended procedure. Much of it has you working near high-voltage harnesses and high-voltage components like the drive inverters. While incredibly unlikely, there are potential problems where a loose ground strap could more readily expose you to this high voltage. Take precautions if you decide to do this at your own risk.
Recommendations:
For raising the car, I used ramps. I've had bad experiences with ramps, so I recommend the following if you use ramps as well:
Goal: Tighten bolts at either end of the grounding straps.
Time taken: 1h30m, but I wasted a lot of time on things I didn't need to. Should be under an hour depending on your HV disable procedure, which you need to do twice for AWD if using ramps. Should take less than 30 minutes if RWD.
Tools Needed: 10mm socket, 10mm wrench (if you haven't lost both already
)
Front Motor (both ends easily accessible)
This is the easier of the two to get at.
Front Drive Unit: Ground strap body termination is visible slightly left of center, the cable with the label and QR code. View is from the passenger side, looking towards the driver's side and slightly rearward. (barely visible: other termination point on drive unit, but is clearly visible from the driver's side).
Rear Motor (only body side easily accessible)
I couldn't easily access the termination point on the drive unit. It's up top and really, really hard to reach. Looks like you'd need to drop the rear out to actually reach it, which is way beyond this thread.
The side you can reach is near the wheel well. Mine had a bunch of crap on it, but was tight.
Rear Drive Unit: Visible ground strap segments are circled. View is looking skyward, top of image towards front of car. Driver's side wheel is on the right. The right circled portion shows the accessible termination on the body.
The Result
Well, I'm writing this because it worked. Noise levels are back to when it was new. The "beeping" etc. still exist, but the new loud tone is so diminished that I have to pay attention to hear it (and it may just be in my head).
I don't know if it was the somewhat loose front one (probably) or the gungy back one (probably not), but either way it's done the job.
I honestly don't understand why this worked, and it's not placebo. I believed with all my brain that it wouldn't work. It seemed like there should have been sufficient contact. But here we are. Maybe this helps you.
Preamble
The Problem: My 2019 Model 3 LR AWD started to make more noise a few months ago, during and after a long road trip. I've always had the "beeping" noises and the "acceleration" noises, and some "regen" noises at low speeds. However, a new constant-ish pitch started showing up between 61-69km/h (38-43mph). It eventually became so loud that I could hear it over music and podcasts.
The Idea: I noticed in various threads, some people had the issue fixed when a ground strap was replaced. Some also with whole drive unit swaps (and the rear motor comes with a new ground strap, I believe). "That's ridiculous", I thought, "I'll just snug up the connection".
The Do-Not: Don't go to your local Tesla Service and say "Hey, camalaio did this and it worked, can you do it to my car?". For one, this was a shot in the dark that happened to work. For two, every car could have a different problem, and I'd probably direct you to listen to your local Service team's recommendations. If you've lost hope after genuinely trying to make progress though, this helped me, and might help you.
Precautions
This is in no way an official or recommended procedure. Much of it has you working near high-voltage harnesses and high-voltage components like the drive inverters. While incredibly unlikely, there are potential problems where a loose ground strap could more readily expose you to this high voltage. Take precautions if you decide to do this at your own risk.
Recommendations:
- Use insulated tools, like electricians use.
- Never allow a path for electricity across your heart.
- Disable the HV contactors, and disconnect the 12V battery to prevent any high voltage to the motors.
For raising the car, I used ramps. I've had bad experiences with ramps, so I recommend the following if you use ramps as well:
- Switch your stop mode to Roll (not Creep or Hold).
- Set regen to Low (not Standard)
- Enable Chill acceleration (not Standard or Sport)
- AWD Only: Drive forward onto the ramps to raise the front, and reverse for the rear. This ensures the motor driving the car is the one on the ground and not the ramps, much safer in my experience.
- RWD Only: Use extreme caution when putting the rear wheels on the ramps.
Goal: Tighten bolts at either end of the grounding straps.
Time taken: 1h30m, but I wasted a lot of time on things I didn't need to. Should be under an hour depending on your HV disable procedure, which you need to do twice for AWD if using ramps. Should take less than 30 minutes if RWD.
Tools Needed: 10mm socket, 10mm wrench (if you haven't lost both already
)Front Motor (both ends easily accessible)
This is the easier of the two to get at.
- Remove only the front end of the fabric-like cover (not necessarily to go further).
- Use the 10mm socket to loosen the bolts holding it up. There's a recessed one closer to the center to remove as well.
- Careful about the drain holes and the edges. Dust/sand will fall on your face. Use safety squints and/or glasses.
- From the driver's side while pulling down the cover, locate the grounding strap.
- Mine had a label with QR code on it, and was the only cable I could see like this.
- You are looking for a cable with ends for bolts, not connectors.
- One end is on a body piece, one end is on the driver's side of the drive unit.
- Snug up the bolts for the grounding strap using the 10mm wrench.
- Do not over-tighten, but generally these need to be fairly snug (to use the technic lingo).
- In my case, the bolt on the body end was somewhat loose.
- Put the cover back in place, making sure the bolts are actually all the way in (some of mine threaded in with a lot of resistance).
Front Drive Unit: Ground strap body termination is visible slightly left of center, the cable with the label and QR code. View is from the passenger side, looking towards the driver's side and slightly rearward. (barely visible: other termination point on drive unit, but is clearly visible from the driver's side).
Rear Motor (only body side easily accessible)
I couldn't easily access the termination point on the drive unit. It's up top and really, really hard to reach. Looks like you'd need to drop the rear out to actually reach it, which is way beyond this thread.
The side you can reach is near the wheel well. Mine had a bunch of crap on it, but was tight.
- Remove only the rear end of the fabric-like cover (not necessarily to go further). Do not remove the rearmost plastic cover, but the one further ahead.
- Use the 10mm socket to loosen the bolts holding it up. There's a couple recessed ones closer to the center to remove as well.
- Again, dust and sand. Use safety squints and/or glasses.
- From the driver's side while pulling down the cover, locate the grounding strap.
- Mine had a label with QR code on it, and was the only cable I could see like this.
- You are looking for a cable with ends for bolts, not connectors.
- One end is on a body piece, one end is on the driver's side of the drive unit.
- The body end is close to the wheel well.
- Snug up the bolts for the grounding strap using the 10mm wrench.
- Clean up the bolt with fingers and/or brush. Mine was very dirty, and it's easy to see how this one specifically might corrode easier than the others.
- Do not over-tighten, but generally these need to be fairly snug (to use the technic lingo).
- In my case, it felt very tight already.
- Put the cover back in place, making sure the bolts are actually all the way in (some of mine threaded in with a lot of resistance).
Rear Drive Unit: Visible ground strap segments are circled. View is looking skyward, top of image towards front of car. Driver's side wheel is on the right. The right circled portion shows the accessible termination on the body.
The Result
Well, I'm writing this because it worked. Noise levels are back to when it was new. The "beeping" etc. still exist, but the new loud tone is so diminished that I have to pay attention to hear it (and it may just be in my head).
I don't know if it was the somewhat loose front one (probably) or the gungy back one (probably not), but either way it's done the job.
I honestly don't understand why this worked, and it's not placebo. I believed with all my brain that it wouldn't work. It seemed like there should have been sufficient contact. But here we are. Maybe this helps you.
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