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America's tire lifting model Y without jack pad - is it safe?

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Located at NorCal, when visiting my local America's Tire store, I saw them lifting Model Y by a flatbed lift without using the lift pads (photo attached).

And to give you some ideas about the lifting device, it is something like Save On Aston ASL-MR8012 - 8,000 lb Capacity Scissor Lift at ToolPan.com

My question: since Tesla explicitly mentioned that we can only lift a Model Y with the four lifting points, I am wondering whether the way of lifting the car in my photo is safe for the battery. (From the photo, you can see that the two rear lift points were not even in contact with anything, just hanging in the air.

I am seriously considering whether I can still bring my car to their shop for tire repair/rotation in the future, appreciate your suggestions.

IMG_3934.jpg
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...you can see that the two rear lift points were not even in contact with anything, just hanging in the air...

The part where the car is just hanging out in the air is safe for your battery as long as the car doesn't tip off balance and fall down.

Tesla's battery, sitting at the center, protrudes downward more than the lift points. That means any lift that goes toward the center of the car passing the lift points risks lifting the battery up instead of the lift points.

Your photo scenario above needs jack pads.
 
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I saw my M3 jacked up without pucks and asked why Tesla themselves didn’t use the pucks while lifting the car. The tech said that not only don’t you need the pucks (unless the lift pad is jagged or pointed somehow instead of being flat), but you can actually lift the car’s entire side safely from one lift point. That is how durable the edge structure encapsulating the battery is. I regularly rotate my own wheels and swap between my 18“ and 20” wheels with no pucks, but I am not comfortable lifting the entire side of the car with 1 low-profile jack.
 
Here is an example of a basic 2 ton low profile floor jack with a metal cup at the end of the lift arm (Not recommending this floor jack, only using this model for illustration.)

Amazon.com

A single lift puck used with this floor jack design will help to precisely locate the lift point. The lift puck would be surrounded (captured) by the edges of the metal cup on the lift arm.

You can lift one side (both wheels) off the ground of the Tesla Model 3, Model Y using either the front or rear lift point. For quickly rotating wheels (front to back) that is all you need. If you will be working underneath the vehicle then you would need to use jack stands.

If I was purchasing a low profile 2 ton rated floor jack it would probably be this one or similar. I would expect to pay ~$300 US. This floor jack has a rubber pad on the end of the lift arm to protect the lift point of the vehicle so you might not need to use a lift puck.

Schwaben Ultra-Long/Ultra-Low High Lift Hydraulic Floor Jack for EV Owners
 
It’s fine. Did you check underneath to see if there’s any actual damage?

The side rails where the jack points are extend slightly lower than the battery. Their lifts have a flat top surface so there’s no risk to contacting or damaging the battery. The weight is also distributed over a bigger area so there’s less risk of damage to the side rail. If one were to use a single jack in the center of the car instead of the jack points, then that would be cause for concern.

Tesla service doesn’t use jack pads either from what I’ve seen. They’ve just been so ubiquitously peddled by all the accessory sellers that people think they need them.
 
Here is an example of a basic 2 ton low profile floor jack with a metal cup at the end of the lift arm (Not recommending this floor jack, only using this model for illustration.)

Amazon.com

A single lift puck used with this floor jack design will help to precisely locate the lift point. The lift puck would be surrounded (captured) by the edges of the metal cup on the lift arm.

You can lift one side (both wheels) off the ground of the Tesla Model 3, Model Y using either the front or rear lift point. For quickly rotating wheels (front to back) that is all you need. If you will be working underneath the vehicle then you would need to use jack stands.

If I was purchasing a low profile 2 ton rated floor jack it would probably be this one or similar. I would expect to pay ~$300 US. This floor jack has a rubber pad on the end of the lift arm to protect the lift point of the vehicle so you might not need to use a lift puck.

Schwaben Ultra-Long/Ultra-Low High Lift Hydraulic Floor Jack for EV Owners
Well …… I actually have that first jack you mention and don’t love it. The cup on the jack is much smaller than radius of puck. Wish it encapsulated as you suggest. If it did, that would be great. Seems unstable to me as it digs into puck and shifts slightly when lifting. Would strongly recommend a jack that really does encapsulate the puck.

Made me nervous enough rotating my tires that I finally got a couple Rennstands.
The flat pad on your second example is much better.
 
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It’s fine. Did you check underneath to see if there’s any actual damage?

The side rails where the jack points are extend slightly lower than the battery. Their lifts have a flat top surface so there’s no risk to contacting or damaging the battery. The weight is also distributed over a bigger area so there’s less risk of damage to the side rail. If one were to use a single jack in the center of the car instead of the jack points, then that would be cause for concern.

Tesla service doesn’t use jack pads either from what I’ve seen. They’ve just been so ubiquitously peddled by all the accessory sellers that people think they need them.
FYI …… Had some new tires put on the Y recently. Out here in the rurals, they’ve only heard of Discount Tire ……. So I ordered my tires from Tire Rack and took them down to the local shop. Good guys down there but never seen an EV before. Pucks were essential for the lift they had ….. and they worked pretty hard with some wood block shims to avoid damaging trim below my doors.
 
That lift distributes force over a very large area. Will not damage your car.
Far as I know, there are no "large areas" under the Tesla to distribute the force. The 4 lift points are in very specific locations and looking at the pic, only the front lift points would be engaged. Not sure what the rear side of the lift is pressing against. The pic honestly doesn't show much, so they may have something special going on there but from this viewing angle, if they're not using any type of pucks, it looks wrong.
 
The whole side of the car has a metal rail at the same height as the jack points. Those lifts have a flat surface with a rubber pad all along the top. So the lift pad is engaging with the side rail of the car.
Okay, first thanks for pointing that out. You made me go take a look and I took a few snaps.

So this siderail is what you're talking about.... (rear jack point is the hole in upper right corner)
Siderail-entire.png


While I was there I made a few observances. The rail does indeed sit lower than the battery by about a quarter inch. It is not level with the jack point however, and the plastic under-cladding is lower than the rail. The jack point is even lower and sits below the plastic. I'd say the jack point is a half inch lower than the battery and the rail is a quarter inch lower. The level is level...sorry, didn't capture that in pic.

side-rail-lower-than-jack-point.png



Personally, I think it's probably safe to jack that way, since the true jack point is actually involved. I also assume that in Cali, they've done a boatload of these cars this way.

This is what the Tesla manual says though. Again, I believe it assumes that you are jacking by the rail only... not resting on both. I definitely wouldn't jack on just the rail, even if it was spread out. Along the length of it is surely not reinforced into the chassis like the actual jack point, else they would have put more jack points (I may be wrong and it may all be about getting you in the $hop, but better safe than sorry).
jacking-poing-MY.png
 
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