Air Suspension compressor turns on, then off after 7 seconds...

[keithrupp]

Hello everyone,

I have a 2012 Tesla Model S Performance P85 with just under 100k miles. I replaced my air suspension compressor with a Suncore unit from Amazon on 10/5/2021 (original compressor no longer turned on, and gave EAS_w007 errors), which at the time had a 2-year warranty. Only annoyance here was that to initialize the suspension system, I did have to take it to the local Tesla service center for which they charged me about $150. It then worked swimmingly until around 9/5/22 -- could I have reset the suspension system myself by using the "Tire Size Change" hack?

I received a red suspension warning on 9/5/22, with no EAS_w007 errors. I assumed the new compressor went out, and wanted the Tesla Service Center to back my diagnosis so I could get a free new compressor. Instead, they found out the MIDI fuse on top of the 12v battery went out, and the suspension worked again, until recently.

Now, (9/11/2023) every time I start the Tesla, I can hear the compressor come on for about 7 seconds. Thus, I don't think there is any fuse or relay issues on the way to the compressor. Vehicle does not raise, and if you try manually raising/lowering the suspension using the screen the animating circle just spins. Occasionally, I get the red suspension dash light again, but with no accompanying EAS errors. Front tire wells are now sitting on the 21" tires.

I suspect I may have a leak, as the rear suspension looks at a better level. My questions are, can I assume the compressor is still working since it comes on, or can the compressor figure out there's a leak and shut itself down? Why am I not getting any EAS errors? What should the pressure the reservoir canister read if my compressor is working?

 

[keithrupp]

Update: I've both swapped and bypassed the relay, checked the fuse (but not the MIDI fuse), and just disconnected the main connector to the compressor. I'll check tomorrow if I have power going up to the connector when my son can assist; I assume he has to have his foot on the brake before power goes by the relay. Now that I have the tub out, I can hear that the sound that I thought was the air suspension compressor is actually a smaller module adjacent to it -- does anyone know what that is?

Anyways, I'm slowly coming to the conclusion that another compressor is probably in my future. I do have the original Continental Tesla Compressor from my first replacement, and I just stumbled on this service for $280, where I send them the broken core, they repair it, and send it back. Has anyone used this service?

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Is the Continental considered superior to other ~$300 new compressors out there?

 

[geordi]

Yes, the computer is very good at detecting a leak - which you likely have. The tank should read somewhere north of 8-10 bar, or at least 150 psi. The few seconds your compressor is running may be to check against the tank to see if it can see a pressure change, but you still likely have a leak if service mode isn’t showing that gallery pressure. Service mode should also show you the hidden errors - likely the leak error - and can show you the actual heights and desired heights and pressures. Adapt and repair accordingly.

FYI: You don’t need the service center for anything on the air suspension, there is no “initialization” that they did for you, all they (likely) did was just pump up that reservoir with 150 psi of nitrogen and steal a BUNCH of your money for no good reason. The air compressor WOULD have pumped it up with a couple power cycles, but it is time-limited by the computer to only run for 90 seconds continuously. Pumping up the tank with any compressor you had laying around would have been an acceptable option instead to get it closer to the top limit it wanted to be at…. OR you can get nitrogen from any costco or tire shop…. But air is perfectly acceptable.

 

[fiuzatec]

Update: I've both swapped and bypassed the relay, checked the fuse (but not the MIDI fuse), and just disconnected the main connector to the compressor. I'll check tomorrow if I have power going up to the connector when my son can assist; I assume he has to have his foot on the brake before power goes by the relay. Now that I have the tub out, I can hear that the sound that I thought was the air suspension compressor is actually a smaller module adjacent to it -- does anyone know what that is?

Anyways, I'm slowly coming to the conclusion that another compressor is probably in my future. I do have the original Continental Tesla Compressor from my first replacement, and I just stumbled on this service for $280, where I send them the broken core, they repair it, and send it back. Has anyone used this service?

Tesla Model S 2011-2015 OEM Rebuild Air Suspension Compressor Pump (6006403-00-A)

Find amazing deals on Tesla Model S 2011-2015 OEM Rebuild Air Suspension Compressor Pump 6006403-00-A. Order today and receive Fast Delivery and Discounted Prices!

rebuildmastertech.com

Is the Continental considered superior to other ~$300 new compressors out there?

How finished this story ? I've same problem......

 

[Twoeagle]

I have exactly the same problem. Tesla said they have to replace rear subframe harness due to corroded wires to the rear level position sensor They replaced both rear air springs including compressor and airblock 10 months ago.

 

[keithrupp]

Oh! Apologies for not finishing the story, at least for now. The MIDI fuse was blown, so I bought a bag of them from Amazon for $20.
Of course, it was at the most difficult location, the MIDI fuse links just above the 12v battery. The Air Suspension link is (of course) on the bottom row, so I have to remove all the top links to get to it.
Then, I attempt to replace the MIDI fuse; it doesn’t fit. If you look closely at the blown green fuse, it appears a previous Tesla tech sanded down one of the sides to make it fit in the plastic guide tray that forces the circuits apart.
I took a different approach — if I’m going to be doing this a few times, I’ll modify the channel instead to accept a standard MIDI fuse. About 30 minutes later with my sharp box cutters and being in a very awkward position, I was successful.
Now, each of these fusible links have two short box-head bolts that act as conductive posts to hold the fuse to a metallic plane that connects to the battery. From my POV, after I disconnected each circuit, these short posts fell a short distance…I made an assumption that the plastic channels held the bolt in place underneath with more plastic. I could still see the bolt, and using my magnetic pickup tool I was to bring it back up and hold it with my left hand while I reconnected the circuit and put the 8mm nut back on loosely.
But there was ONE bolt that failed to levitate back up magnetically, so I picked up the entire board to look at the other side, and that %#+!’ing bolt fell downward into the depths of the frunk since there was nothing holding it in place except the top of the battery. After searching with my borescope and magnetic pickups, futilely and with swearing, I called off the search at 3:30am.
Since a box-head bolt is somewhat rare, I went to the Glendale Tesla Service Center the next day. They said since my Tesla is so “old”, they don’t sell those bolts individually, but they’d sell me the whole board for $500! Typical Tesla!
Off to Ace Hardware, and I bought three round pan-head bolts for $2.63. Problem solved!
Then, to test the system — got an initial scare when I left the relay out so I could check voltage, but when the Tesla woke up it detected the relay wasn’t there and shut down the entire circuit. Completed the circuit and I hear the sweet sound of my air suspension compressor coming on, but the Tesla was not raising! I’m thinking I have an air leak in one of the hoses, and was about to get my soapy water, when after about three minutes I could literally see the Tesla raise up! I believe it needed to build up pressure in the reservoir before the valve block allowed the air into the air shocks. I did this on October 2nd and it's been working flawlessly since.