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12v wire tap for Radar Detector
- Thread starter surfrasch
- Start date
Nice job!
Side note: before buying the K40, I would highly suggest checking out the RC-M from Radenso. Awesome performance from an awesome company. They're super active in the community on RDForum.org. Uniden and Radenso are the top players currently, and will be for at least the next few years.
Radenso will get better and better
The best guy from Uniden [ who was behind their best RD tech] just moved to Radenso.
I feel this means Radenso will be killing it in next few years
Another RDF member?
Anyone planning to power the dash cam off a separate battery like the Cellink while parked? Would I just hardwire the Cellink to the switched 12v under the dash so that it'll charge the Cellink when the car is running. And when parked the dash cam would draw power from the Cellink?
G'sinHawaii
Member
Just wanted to update this post, as my model 3 came with the slot already occupied....
THX723
Member
Kbra
Member
I finished my Install and tried to show it in good detail, step by step, with photos for anyone else to replicate. I'm really happy with how it came out. Plus radar works again. (It was useless in my Model S due to the front wondswinds film)
How to Hard Wire Install a Radar Detector to the Tesla Model 3 | LivingTesla
How to Hard Wire Install a Radar Detector to the Tesla Model 3 | LivingTesla
thanks for sharing, excellent guide.I finished my Install and tried to show it in good detail, step by step, with photos for anyone else to replicate. I'm really happy with how it came out. Plus radar works again. (It was useless in my Model S due to the front wondswinds film)
How to Hard Wire Install a Radar Detector to the Tesla Model 3 | LivingTesla
where is the switched supply on the model S ?
Kbra
Member
On my S I used a mirror tap and got switched power inside the mirror housing. Don't recall the color anymore, plus it may have changed over time. Just need to poke around with a volt meter.
Kbra
Member
On the Model 3 yes, always on. So fine for a dashcam.
On the Model S, there was 4-6 wires and at least one of them is switched 12V.
Fusion
Member
I'm assuming people are using this also for dash cams? I saw in another tread that they tapped a wire where the emergency button is up top.
destructure00
Active Member
I opened up the mirror housing on my 3 this past weekend. There's a 2-wire connector that goes into the mirror itself with a yellow and white wire. I probed them with a multimeter but got no voltage at all. Made sure the car was turned on first too. Have others had a different experience?
I hard wired my Valentine to the 12V outlet. A few updates back, the switched outlet was changed to what appeared to be an unswitched outlet. The other day, I forgot to turn off the Valentine and was surprised that the Valentine was off several hours later. What I discovered was if I opened the door and sat in the seat, exited, and close the door, power was applied for only 45 minutes. If I opened the door and closed the door, power was applied for only 15 minutes. I now just leave my Valentine on.
IsellCisco
Member
Mine is the SAME!!!!! March 2019 build. I came to this thread because for the life of me I kept telling myself, "mine doesn't look like the videos!"
It is a bear to find, took me an hour and at one point I was so frustrated, I had to take a break and watch YouTube videos. That being said, it is in there. Mine was buried waaay in the back of the bundle, The key is it is a thicker light blue wire, maybe 16gauge. There is another similarly sized light blue wire twisted together with a white one. That is a good verification that you have the right wire. Good luck.
Thanks everyone, I successfully installed my Valentine One using this method. Here's a pic of my connector to the connector.
A few lessons learned while doing this...
1) On the 5cm connector... It needs to in quite far... The back of the connector cannot be too thick. If the connector has the vinyl insulator, remove it… Use heat shrink or electrical tape.
2) Use a sturdy wire so that you have some leverage to push the connector in.
3) When testing for 12V and using the bottom bolt, know that there is some kind of insulator on part of the bolt, so you need to make sure you are properly grounding.. Or you may think you're not getting 12V which will lead you into an endless loop of what could be wrong.
4) While an 8mm socket will remove those airbag bolts, consider purchasing a proper socket. It will make it easier. Also, those bolts are long, so attach the socket to a large screw driver to make it easier to unscrew.
A few lessons learned while doing this...
1) On the 5cm connector... It needs to in quite far... The back of the connector cannot be too thick. If the connector has the vinyl insulator, remove it… Use heat shrink or electrical tape.
2) Use a sturdy wire so that you have some leverage to push the connector in.
3) When testing for 12V and using the bottom bolt, know that there is some kind of insulator on part of the bolt, so you need to make sure you are properly grounding.. Or you may think you're not getting 12V which will lead you into an endless loop of what could be wrong.
4) While an 8mm socket will remove those airbag bolts, consider purchasing a proper socket. It will make it easier. Also, those bolts are long, so attach the socket to a large screw driver to make it easier to unscrew.
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