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For me it’s about a clean install where I can run wires out of sight. My radar detector sits right below my rear view mirror (Blendmount) so I run the power wire along the headliner, down the post to the driver’s side footwell. Getting to the 12v in the center console isn’t all that easy if you want to keep all the wires hidden.
True - the radar detector will shutoff after a period of activity for my brand it’s 1-4 hours. I wasn’t keen on this option - personal preference.
Finding the connector in the driver’s side footwell is a great solution for me - I’ll admit to being OCD so I know it maybe a bit much for other folks and not everyone will care about chasing this down.
I can confirm the wire in passenger footwell provides power on brake and turns off when exit. On 22 Y . however…. Voltage is over 15v. This is going to burn up some detectors, i ordered regulator and will wire that up inbetween.
I can confirm the wire in passenger footwell provides power on brake and turns off when exit. On 22 Y . however…. Voltage is over 15v. This is going to burn up some detectors, i ordered regulator and will wire that up inbetween.
Most (all?) ICE cars when the engine is running driving its alternator, the "12V" output is at 15V or more. All 12V car electronics are designed to account for varying voltage. Nothing is going to burn up. don't worry.
I assume that, in my case, where I do have a factory mounted tow bar on my M3, that plug is most likely already occupied ?It’s the trailer brake harness. There’s a 4 pin plug inside the footwell.
No Tesla comes with a brake controller installed. Just a plug that is ready for it as mentioned. You can tap into that one as noted in the OP. Mine still works to this day and I’m on latest update and don’t need to activate tow mode.I assume that, in my case, where I do have a factory mounted tow bar on my M3, that plug is most likely already occupied ?
Awesome, I’m gonna give it a try. I’m adding lights to the fog light housing, so probably add a relai.No Tesla comes with a brake controller installed. Just a plug that is ready for it as mentioned. You can tap into that one as noted in the OP. Mine still works to this day and I’m on latest update and don’t need to activate tow mode.
Awesome, I’m gonna give it a try. I’m adding lights to the fog light housing, so probably add a relai.
And just to be sure - when the car is “off”, is that plug always of, or does it "wake up" every now and then, ex if sentry mode kicks in?
Which wire and wear did you connect to?I have the tow package and it powers the hardness. I am not aware of a workaround absent the factory tow package. I do not tow however, the tow hardness enabled me to easily power up my radar detector. Good luck to you!
That's exactly my experience. I do not plan on towing and will use an aftermarket tow hitch receiver just for my bike rack. I decided to just tap the cigarette lighter for my dashcam 12V.I just tried to install the pigtail in my 23 myp. I don’t have tow package and I’m not getting reading on the red wire. Any ideas? Should I contact Tesla to active the tow package software?
Yes, it works.Can verify that the red wire on the right side of the passenger footwell works as a switched 12v on the 2023 Model Y Performance. I wasn't sure if the trailer brake controller method on the driver's side would work on mine since I don't have the tow package, so I went with this method. In retrospect, I would have ordered the adapter and tried that first since it looked easier.
There are A LOT of red wires (not just 3). I counted 9 thin ones ranging from red to blood orange to slightly fuchsia, 1 thin red wrapped in thin blue, 1 thin red wrapped in thin white, 1 thick red wire (THIS is the one you want), 1 thick red wire wrapped in thick blue wire, 1 really thick red wire shown off to the left. The correct one was buried pretty deep in the bundle and took a decent amount of tape-cutting to access.
I thought finding the correct wire would have been the toughest part, but I had trouble tapping into the wire with the t-tap connector that came with the Uniden radar detector wire kit I had ordered (link). The blue connector it came with would have been fine for the thinner wires in the bundle, but probably needed a slightly larger awg wiretapper for the middle-size wire I tapped into.
The last part I would have liked to avoid was grounding the other wire. There weren't any bolts on the frame within reach so I had to drill a new hole. Went through two drill bits that weren't sharp enough, and a self-tapping sheet metal screw failed to penetrate as well. Finally got it drilled, but a bad ground connection here made me waste a lot of time because I thought the hot wire was the issue.
Got it working at the end though. Thanks to everyone else who'd already tried it and posted their pictures.
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