@anyone
Can I remotely select 'Alway connected off' ?
As I'am losing to much energy juice while my X is parked at the airport. It's now 10 days and already lost 7 wph .
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@anyone
Can I remotely select 'Alway connected off' ?
As I'am losing to much energy juice while my X is parked at the airport. It's now 10 days and already lost 7 wph .
Leave the overheat protection on, it might use a percent or two a day but it keeps your interior below 105 degrees inside and prevents your TFT screens from separating and dying prematurely. If you are really that concerned about getting home try to find a 110 outlet and plug in for the time or hit a supercharger on the way out if possible.
I have the "always connected" turned off. Agreed it takes a a bit to connect (less than a minute perhaps), but does connect. Just a bit of patience...
Are you saying that electronic components which are designed to withstand solder melting temperature over 700F could be affected by 120-160F? Or, are you saying that AC blows cold air behind the car panels and cools circuit boards? I think the cabin temperature is absolutely irrelevant for the lifespan of electronics.
Increasing The Lifespan And Reliability Of Electrical Components
Heat kills electronics. So to your first question on 120-160 dF....yes.
Heat kills electronics. So to your first question on 120-160 dF....yes.
I don't have any idea what the operating range is of car electronics, obviously it is rated higher than cellphones or tablets that are not meant to be left in the heat, but the later devices an iPhone and iPad for example have an operating range of 32-95F and non-operating of -4 to 113F. Cars interiors for sure get much hotter than that and the owners that have had there cars for around 3 years have had some issues with delaminating of the screens. Assume that problem was addresssed since then as more of these issues popped up, but it certainly gives me pause and we'd rather use COP than not if it helps prolong the life.
Yes, because "solder joints" are the only parts of electronics in the car. Also, what magical solder are they using that is over 700f? Common lead free solder used in electronics melts at 380f. Most CPU's throttle to prevent damage at 80-90c (~185f).
Besides, the "Solder joints" are not the problem, the problem is the touchscreen UV glue that over years of exposure to ~130-150f can easily cause bubbles/seperation as many including myself have experienced.
That's called a design defect. I've had LCD screens in previous vehicles that had no such issues, and those cars did not have cabin overheat features. Put blame where it belongs - on crappy component quality.
You've had 17" touchscreens in other cars? I'd bet larger surface area is harder to keep glued together. A perfect glue job doesn't develop spots years later from a "defect", I would bet money heat is the primary factor.
Maybe they changed their UV Loca glue to a more heat tolerant glue? Probably, but keeping your car ~40-50 degrees cooler will have nothing but a positive impact on the lifespan of the screen / other electronics in the cabin.
It's definitely a design defect in some display, whether it's a material selection or manufacturing process issue. Most if not all liquid OCAs (optically clear adhesives) or "loca" as it's haphazardly thrown around forums are UV cured with the UV kicking off a photo initiator that causes the polymer to crosslink. If done properly the lamination should have no issue surviving 100C. Most consumer phones and tablets need to survive a 60C/90%RH lifecycle test for several months. For automotive applications the requirement is much more stringent than 60C.
EDIT: A quick search turned up a high temperature > 90C liquid OCA by henkel http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/industrial/cover-lens-bonding-22046.htm. There are likely many others from Delo, 3M, etc.
Here is a neat video showing how a touch sensor or cover glass is bonded to a liquid crystal display.
EDIT: A quick search turned up a high temperature > 90C liquid OCA by henkel http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/industrial/cover-lens-bonding-22046.htm. There are likely many others from Delo, 3M, etc.
Here is a neat video showing how a touch sensor or cover glass is bonded to a liquid crystal display.
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COP turned off and 0 lost, maybe 1 mile, in 9 hrs on a 90-ish degree day. But it was VERY hot in the car driving home and harder to get it thoroughly cooled down, as you would expect. A good test though. I do have sun shields in the front window, back window and sunroof.
Turned COP back on (for days parked at work) and on a 85-ish degree day, I lose 3-5 miles. Much better than 11. Temps getting over 95 degrees really affect the COP. I agree it makes sense to leave it on when just parked at work each day and can recharge in the evenings at home. But nice to know how to conserve it when parked at an airport for an extended period (assuming no covered parking and no EV chargers). Thanks for the advice about COP!!
Hopefully a few weeks here and there with it off won't have a notable affect on the life of the electronics.
Turned COP back on (for days parked at work) and on a 85-ish degree day, I lose 3-5 miles. Much better than 11. Temps getting over 95 degrees really affect the COP. I agree it makes sense to leave it on when just parked at work each day and can recharge in the evenings at home. But nice to know how to conserve it when parked at an airport for an extended period (assuming no covered parking and no EV chargers). Thanks for the advice about COP!!
Hopefully a few weeks here and there with it off won't have a notable affect on the life of the electronics.
No, I've had LCD screens in other cars. Regardless, it's still a design defect when something that is designed for this purpose cannot handle typical interior cabin heat during the day while parked in the sun. I agree that using COP is generally a good idea, but it would be nice to know that the stuff inside our vehicles was properly designed in the first place. I have an induction cooktop that is going on 11 years old. That thing has a ton of electronics and it gets very, very hot... but works like a champ.
On a side note I really hope they start offering core part discounts for out of warranty repairs for things such as the LCD screen, onboard charger, etc (Anything actually repairable).. We can all agree they are getting the digitizers re-glued for pennies on the dollar for them.
Having just been quoted $2k to replace my onboard charger and then turning around and fixing it myself for $10.. I still love Tesla but that won't win them many fans in the future when more cars are out of warranty.
Why turn it off at the airport? Since it turns itself off after 12 hours, it seems like an unnecessary complication. Plus you could forget to turn it back on when you return.
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