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905Wh/mile average :-) Figure that is about 40 miles of range when fully changed (70% battery).

Refuel EV day at Laguna Seca yesterday... did a 1:57.784 in the time trial beating my personal best (1.5 Roadster with original battery). The Performance Model 3 is quick - nothing else production there could touch them.

Thread about the crash from 2009: Tree Hugs Roadster Owner

Opps... it is #254... I will see if a mod can fix.

I picked up #254 about a year ago as a project car. History - the car had a disagreement with a tree back in 2009 which took out the headlight and damaged the front-right suspension. Not a scratch on the hood. The car hasn't been touched since. It has done 5800 miles, is still on the factory...

The car is very confused about the new TPMS sensors. I ordered them pre-programmed and figured the car would learn after 20-odd miles. They came up almost immediately - FL 30psi, FR 30 psi, RL 40psi, RR no information. Drive for 21 miles, stopped, restarted car - FL 40psi, FR 30psi, RL 40psi...

No dash removal, just the ESS. It is a 1.5 so I don't think there is a 12V battery. Not getting any 12V errors.

Good news first - I have been driving the car for the last two weeks! Bit of a change after driving a Leaf for 6 months! Two minor problems remain... the airbag warning light is on and it is report TPMS Hardware Error. I ordered a set of replacement TMPS sensors in case that is the TPMS...

The car completed charging and the error has gone away... car turns on with no fault codes! Next up is reassembling the rear suspension and clearing a path to get the car out :-)

Car booted back up. It is throwing an error "Backup power service required" but the battery is charging. I will let it finish charging then investigate the backup power path.

New relay installed and the ESS is back in one piece. Now just have to put the car back together.

Broke one of the studs off the new relay (well not strictly new). Another new relay on order :-(

I got the relay out. The area around both studs is equally crispy. No damage to the relay housing. Thinking either A - poor contact to one of the studs resulting in heat which coupled through the relay path to the other stud, or B - poor crimp of the main power cable resulting in heat coupling...

Nuts didn't seem loose, though without the nylon they unwound easily once started. Both nuts and surrounding areas looked to have the same damage (ie not obviously one side causing the problem). The different metal bars and rings connecting to the studs all look tarnished from heat. The small...

Progress... I installed a 2-post lift last month and spent the last week slowing working through the procedure to remove the ESS. Got the cover off the ESS today. It looks like the contactor ran a little hot... the nylon in both nylock nuts melted and dripped down.

Man341 - great meeting you today. Continued in your first thread: Looking for local expert for roadster w/ dead battery

Hi Man341, It was great meeting you today. Sorry the news wasn't better (most bricks measured a few milivolts). It is a beautiful car. Nick

Answering the first one - you get get into the service menu from tow mode and shut the car down.

Doing the prep work... 1) Is there a "proper" way to shut down the car while keeping it in tow mode? (one approach is to put it in tow mode, disconnect the cable to the transmission lock, then shutdown the car). 2) Is there are recommendation for a sealant to use for the battery cover/screw...

Guess I have a weekend job to do :-) I have the service manual with the steps for pulling the ESS from a 2.0... is the 1.5 close enough that the 2.0 instructions should be reasonable?

Well, the contactor isn't intermittant anymore :-( Lost all drivetrain power while driving back from lunch. AAA flatbed tow back to the office.

Can I swap ESSs or is the ESS keyed to the car in some way?

The negative contactor in the ESS? With you now, and ouch. I have another ESS here I could pull a contactor from. Not jumping up and down with excitement over the prospect of pulling the ESS out of the car :-( Error again today. Worked a few minutes later after a few retries.

Sorry, typo, the firmware version error from a month back was a BMB module. If it fails again with a BSM contactor fault I will take a look inside the PEM. Thanks!

The car would "start", then throw an error as soon as I tried to drive forward. It also threw an error when I attempted to charge. List of errors reported: 269 BSM: Negative contactor/economizer stuck low 270 BSM: Negative contactor/economizer stuck high 939 DMC FW: Battery UnderVoltage fault...

There is definitely more time to be found... will have to do it again :-) It was 3 seconds faster than my previous best and left me in 9th place overall for the event. The fastest time of the day for a production car was 1:47 - made by a semi-pro driver in a Model 3.

1.5 Roadster (me) chasing a 2.5 Roadster at Laguna Seca last weekend... Time trial event - recorded time of 2:00.264.

Yesterday was the 2018 ReFuel track day at Laguna Seca... I recorded an official TT time of 2:00 (.264) which is a personal best and put me in 9th place for the day. This was the first track day where the battery didn't overheat, thanks to this mod: Manual battery cooldown mod - a cure for the...

Seeing a quick where the BMB path to the most -ve brick in each sheet seems to have higher resistance. What we really need is a constant current charge with a periodic stop-and-measure to check the voltage level.

Are you running the 205/45/16 fronts on the stock 6" wide rims?

Charging to 3.970V. Chosen because the highest cells were close to that point when I switched from charging the complete pack to charging each brick separately. I checked the diag screen on my healthy car when it got down to 19 miles remaining (showing red) - it reported the lowest brick to be...

No, the bricks are not modular unfortunately. There are metal plates with 138 cells connected via short bond wires - the 69 +ve terminals of one brick and the 69 -ve terminals of the next brick. Then under that the cells are glued in place along with the coolant channels (as I understand it).

I am putting together a thread with information for people who are considering poking at the battery pack. My experience is with the Roadster but most of this information will hopefully be relevant for other EVs as well. The Roadster pack is 99S/69P - each 4V brick consists of 69 cells in...

The first 7 sheets wired up... This will get the bricks to a consistent voltage to correct for the oddities of storage discharge. Then it will be up to the car to figure out the actual balancing needed by tracking what the bricks do over charge-discharge cycles. (Theory - the lowest...

DollarTree have 3-way power strips for $1. 3 of those = 9 sockets, then one more 3-way power strip to power them = 4 power strips per sheet. 4 sheets plugged into a 4-way power strip and 3 sheets into another. I ordered 100 power-supply/charging boards from China for $280 incl shipping. Then...

CAC is 144Ah which is great. Not seeing any indication of pending failure in those numbers. My healthy 1.5 is reporting a CAC of 117Ah.

Correction - It is reporting 117Ah CAC.

Update - I have 7 sheets on charge with 63 isolated per-brick chargers (9 per sheet). 63 power adapters plugged into 30 power strips :) All bricks are healthy. 6 have reached the target voltage.

My 1.5 has a CAC of 110... the hp display on the LCD it topping out at ~212 which is ~158kW

Keep in mind that the clearance at the rear is pretty close to the same as the clearance at the front. A couple of lengths of 2x6 to drive over might help. A few years back I got a flat tire on the freeway. I had a spare set of wheels so asked the tow truck driver to drop the car off at my...

If anyone want to build more of these BMB probe boards I have published the files: nickkelsey/tesla_roadster_bmb_extender

If you want to build some... nickkelsey/tesla_roadster_bmb_extender

Perfect - that matches my notes from looking at the BMB and looking at the internal structure of the sheet. Pins 10 and 11... Every second sheet has a large fuse in the middle of the series chain. The sheets that don't have a fuse have the same structure but with a metal bar installed instead...

I measured a completely different pinout... The official pin number for the connector is weird from the document I saw - they count 1-12 down one side, then reset back to the start for 13-24 down the other side.

If you are good soldering the two connectors to each board I can post links for ordering the PCBs and ordering the connectors. Give me a few days.

How are the punched tabs connected to the cells? I would have guessed spot weld except I understand Gruber can find and replace individual bad cells.

Boards are assembled... Dropbox - 2018-03-05 18.58.43.jpg The boards provide access to the 9 bricks in each sheet and stick out far enough to be easily accessible and easily removable.

Hi, I am repairing a 1.5 and I am just a hop over from you in Milpitas CA. Any chance you could PM me a picture?

After a lot of testing it is clear the battery in this car isn't recoverable. Too many years sitting. I have a set of dummy BMB boards in fab... changed the design to just exposing access to the 9 bricks for monitoring or up to 100mA injection. Keep it simple. I will post pictures end of month...

I should add that there is no magic here - it won't recover cells which have been damaged (for example being left in an under-voltage state for extended periods of time).