I’m pretty impressed with my 21. It seems to have only lost about 7km after nearly 3 yrs

I noticed this location pop up in my NAV which seems to be pretty new.

8 250 kW stalls w/magic dock

1001 Plum Creek Pkwy, Lexington, NE 68850 (Dollar Fresh Market)
I didn't see a pin on supercharge.info for this location either.

Hi,

We were wondering if the new 2024 tesla model y long range awd that starts shipping in june still has the NMC battery (or if it has been updated with the LFC battery) because we noticed that the range estimate for it was updated from 260 miles to 320 miles.

It is going to be our first electric car and we plan to own it for at least 8+ years, so we’re looking for a tesla with a battery pack that wont degrade quickly.

Thank you

I noticed my 2023 dual motor has awesome acceleration until about 70ish mph, and then dies off after. I know the acceleration boost lowers 0-60 times by a good amount, but will it also help with the 70-100+ mph times? or is it only good for the lower speed acceleration? Thank you

Hi! My MY started charging from time to time on 16amps instead of 32amps.
I have schedule to charge for the car to be ready by 9am.
So it started missing 9am deadline to be charged to the target level and still charges when I come over in a morning.

Had this setup for over a year (the NEMA14-50 outlet was from a previous EV).

I wonder if one of the phases contacts is no good? Could be some other reason?

Tesla does a quick test when I plug the car is and shows this correctly as level 2 charger / 32 amps.
But then somehow goes down to 16amps.
Is this something Tesla should be able to help? Not sure if it's a car or a charge problem.
There are no tripped circuit breakers or something like that

Title says it all.

Since I purchased the model Y last year, I have always connected to the 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi network. I do have an access point right next to the Tesla, but I assume that 5 GHz was never an option. If I scan the area of everyone in the neighbourhood only the 2.4 networks are displayed. Of course my phone and all other devices are able to connect to the 5 GHz.

Just wanted some feedback are you guys able to connect to 5 GHz?

Official Model 3 Performance wheel weights! Pulled the tires off and got the wheels weighed!
Kudos to Tesla for making a lightweight forged wheel!

We weighed the aero covers separately at 1.58 lbs

Front without covers: 22.70 lbs
Rear without covers: 23.36 lbs

Front with covers: 24.28 lbs
Rear with covers: 24.94 lbs

Wheel specs: Front are 20x9 +34
Rear are 20x10 +45

Super lightweight compared to the 20x9 Uberturbines which weigh approximately 32 lbs each.

Also impressively close to our lightweight UP-03 forged wheels which in 20x9.5/10.5 weigh 21.46 lbs and 21.98 lbs, respectively, meaning UP wheels are roughly 2.75 lbs and 3 lbs lighter than M3P factory wheels (with aero covers) while gaining a half inch of width.

Upcoming UP 9”/10” staggered fitment with lower offsets coming soon are more comparable to stock and should net even more weight savings.

"Tesla admits that the cameras on the new Teslas are misleading and too poor, and says that customers must get out of the car to check for obstacles."

Hi all,
Just hit 68,000 miles on factory Pirelli P Zero PZ4 Elect (Rear 275/35 R21 103W; Front 255/35 R21 98W) and it's time for new tires. I'd like to note that 87% of the mileage is highway driving and tread is still decent.

Trying to decide between throwing on the same Pirelli tires or switching to Michelin. The Michelin option is Pilot Sport 4 All-Season for $1,800 from Costco or new Pirelli from Tesla at $2,400. I also have an option to get the Michelin Pilot Sport 4 Summer from Costco.

I'd like to stick with the original since getting 68k miles is insane, but can't ignore the $600 cost difference.

Questions are:
1. I think the Pirelli are considered "Summer tires" vs. the Michelin are all-season? Am I going to notice a difference?
2. The Pirellis have "T1" which I think means they're designed to Tesla specs?

My goal is to get as close to same mileage as I just did. I live in the south, so warm weather almost all year (no specific need for all season).

Thoughts? Thanks in advance!

Hello All,

I am collecting my car from Manchester on the 5th, as they will not wash your car if you ask them not to because the last 2 cars I have collected from Longbridge have been "dry" washed which leaves the paintwork with swirl marks all over the car !

I have been told that when the car is taken of the ship that all the teslas are taken through an automatic carwash. Are there any members out there who knows if this is true or are aware of what happens to cars once they are taken of the ship ?

By that, I mean, extend the handle and unlock the door so I can get in and drive without have the fob with me. On the app it lets me open the front and rear trunk, sunroof, flash the lights, open the charge door and even start it, but nothing on opening the door. On a 2013.

Why do we ALWAYS pay more for everyone than the rest of the world?

I've read that the Austin built MY have both gigacasting (front and back), while the Freemont version has only the rear. Is there a way to ensure I get the one I want? Or does it depend on where you live in the US? (I live in the Northeast). Thanks

Hello everyone, I have a really good deal that I have found for a 2017 model S 75 RWD with only 58k miles. I believe this car also might be after the manufacture day of July 2017. My main question is the difference in power and acceleration between the 75 RWD and 75D AWD. Has anybody driven both and can speak on a comparison? I was totally shocked when I was looking at the specs online as they are drastically different. The RWD model shows only 382 hp in 325 pound feet of torque. And then the AWD shows way more power with 518 hp and 387 pound feet of torque. Obviously I know that the AWD has another motor in the front. But wouldnt the specs prove that the all wheel drive model is way more powerful and faster? But it seems like the 0 to 60 times for both models are pretty close, so I'm just a little confused on the acceleration and performance between the two and how similar they are when the specs are way different. Any help would be greatly appreciated

I purchased a car using the Tesla finance people. I took delivery on April 3rd.
Finally signed the contract on May 13th.
Still have not received the welcome from the bank. The person handling this step
won't return my emails, when I call and punch his ext.# in, it tells me there is no such number.
I called Tesla finance and they told me he would call me back. That was Friday morning. Still no call ???

When I signed the contract, it showed a payment due on 05/18/2024. Anyone had an issue like this ?
Is there anyone here that can help ? Thanks!

I am installing a wall mounted charger with 60A breaker and #6 live cables. Is is there any reason the number 10 ground needs to be insulated?

Hi all,

New to Tesla ownership and electric vehicles as a whole. Got a push from work to go electric so I've bought a 2015 P85D. The garage I purchased it from weren't too knowledgeable on it which led to a good price in negotiating but I've got some questions I need some help with.

1) The 2 "inner" front parking sensors have some damage and the car is displaying GTW_w290 "Park Assist Unavailable" which I'm assuming is because of the damage to these sensors. I can only describe the damage as similar to a very large stone chip you'd expect to see on a bonnet. Tesla have given an estimate of around £450 to replace, but I can see some sensors available online for about £35, is the work a lot of hassle for a non-electric car specialist to do? I've got a garage 5 min walk away that usually do my servicing, MOT's etc. and did the MOT on this Tesla too.

2) Quite often when I use the app to do something like unlock the car, it rarely seems to work and I just find myself using the key. Using it for things like the air conditioning seems to work fine, just not unlocking the car. Is there anything I could be doing wrong or is it just not too brilliant to use?

3) The car has Auto Pilot 1.0, which when I'm pulling on the leaver twice just seems to activate a cruise control. None of the graphics on the dash turn blue as I've seen in some YouTube videos, am I doing something wrong?

4) Is it really worth paying the £1,400 for the upgrade to the MCU2? So far I've not had any issues with the screen or MCU1, albeit it just a little slow sometimes.


Thanks for any help/guidance to a Tesla newbie...

'15 85D, 80k miles, rebuilt title, send the car to service center for hv safety check past week, passed their test and recert to be on supercharge. Gent was explaining note says there's SOC seems to show excessive charge imbalance, advice charge to 90 percent and see if in a month the imbalance would restore itself, otherwise may need to change hv battery. During the test, they said noticed some rust on the fuse cover, said future water penetration could potentially damage the pack, replaced that cover and pyro fuse. Picked up Thurs, Fri night, got a max charge level alert, still drivable, drove home, car parked on driveway overnight, Sat morning turned on the car, no alert, everything seems back to normal, drove to gym, ran errands, all fine. Went to grocery shopping, came out greeted with bunch of bms errors, kicking myself for not taking more pics, only have one attached

Service center said remote log says some cell overcharged, and seems usual approach - replace replace replace.. I know it's 10-20k with them though still waiting for their estimate, also contacted a wonderful ex-tesla technician who runs his own garage now and was referred about Recell, so understand that route for replacement.

Wondering if the pros/nerd gods here could share more lights maybe... much appreciated

now my pettiness - car has free data, and sc01... the timing, and that service center is the only party that dropped the battery, you can imagine all kinds of conspiracies running thru my mind..

The new to me 199,000 mile S60 that I bought at auction has a code BMS_U018. It does run and drive and is very clean. I haven't brought it home yet since I may have to tow it instead of drive it the 30 miles back, but thinking ahead if I just want to get rid of it. I see some pretty strong prices at salvage auctions for these cars in similar condition. Like this same year S85 with just a little less miles already at $5300 and that's not even the minimum the seller would take. I'd probably be happy with that for mine.


Any other places I could list and get more than that? Ebay?

Hello, all. I'm new to the forum (and a relatively new Tesla owner). Was hoping to get some feedback from the forum regarding a recent disappointing incident. I was driving my car on some back roads and wanted to test out the Autopilot away from the highway. I was going around the speed limit (25mph) and was watching the road closely with my hands on the wheel. I was noting that the car seemed to be hugging the side of the road, but it was keeping enough distance (or so I thought) from the edge.

Unfortunately, the car then hit a small boulder on the side of the road. It did significant damage to my front left wheel and also damaged the fender.

Here's my question: about a week before delivering my car, Tesla sent me a notice that my car wouldn't have sensors and instead would rely entirely on cameras. There's probably no chance Tesla is going to take care of this damage for me, but I'm interested to know if this would have likely been avoided had my car come with sensors.

Immediately after delivery, first drive, noticeable shaking. Took it to Tesla and was told that all 4 wheel rims were out of round. They replaced them. Three years later, three cracked rims at $1900 each to replace, I live 60 miles from the nearest Tesla store. The car is at a repair place and has been waiting over 3 weeks for a new rim. Lucky for me I still have a real car that works while I wait. They will not deal with the repair shop and I guess I am supposed to have it trucked 60 miles to have them replace the rim. Their attitude is miserable, they refuse to deal with the repair shop, Over three weeks and I still do not know when or if they will send a rim to the repair shop. Too bad. It was a great experience and I would buy an EV in a minute but I would never buy a Tesla. The car may be good but the company and it's service just sucks. Tesla sucks.

I'm trying hard not be annoyed. This is the 3rd time someone has driven into one of my non-moving Telsa's. Each time a red performance model. This one has 5,900 miles on it.

Here's the video: Dash Cam Video

I don't know what happened at Metro Auto Rebuild... they're telling me I have to wait 2 months to get an estimate. And I was also told there's no manager available for me to talk too. I will try again tomorrow, but I'd like to look around now.

Does anyone know of a good repair ship in the Bellevue/Seattle area?

So within 50 miles driving my new Y I have a significant problem. Low frequency booming air pressure. I’m hyper sensitive to this phenomenon with a single window down and the air pressure “thrumming “ or booming or what ever it’s called. I just know I hate it. So my new car is doing this over rough roads. So I go home and start reading up. I saw lots of notes here that this seems to be a long running issue with a heavy deck lid and rubber biscuits that give too much. I saw a few different ways to fix this and I see that tesla has in fact borrowed a few ideas. Regardless, it’s not fixed for me. I ended up making two small biscuits out of a high density foam I bought for a model 3 hack and placing them under the lid at the opening there are two rubber bumpers that come down and contact the plastic cover there with two cutouts. My foam is maybe 1/4 inch. I’d have to check. But the end results are no more booming and no air leaks. And yes, the deck lid is aligned pretty well so I’m not anxious to move it around. You can see where the rubber touches the foam and how does not leave much of an impression. I plan to foam the middle two also later this week as an experiment.

New owner in ER from delivery inspection. Discuss amongst yourselves.