Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register
This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
I was thinking about this over coffee. Anybody who is considering spending $400 for the Macsboost kit could DIY this for next to nothing. I need somebody to confirm the relationship between the spacer thickness and the camber, but I don't have a refresh X. If anybody is in the Bay area I'd be down to shim and measure the camber and toe values so we can share the data freely.

Some notes:
- Another member has already confirmed the $400 shims are off the shelf 2.9mm (approx 1/8").
- Factory hardware appears to be M12

a98aeaa6d8c4732c843503177200dedb.png


To do this at home you will need four M12 (metric, so the nominal diameter is 12mm) washers, approx thickness of 3mm; 1/8" is a close standard equivalent. A correctly sized washer will work in pinch.

If we can measure the factory arm's flange, I can draw a simple square part that others can customize for their desired thickness, if they want to hit a target alignment. There are plenty of shops that will mill these for you

426054ebfc7a1e7465d46e9e5d0e1d03.png


IMG_4916-markup.jpeg


Quick mock up with a non-standard thickness that I priced through Xometry. I quoted laser cut 6061 below but other materials are available for an additional cost. Grade 5 Titanium will double the price...to a whopping $11.

If you are happy with the alignment from the 1/8" thickness there is no reason to have a spacer machined.

f63a8fcbb82e764162d37c7bed5db0a0.png


f90aeef6d43beda7719d95e2e51b17d8.png



59e9d5441f7009b65fc60ea2def20a78.png


Of course, the cost goes way down with volume and we can do cool things like anodize or powdercoat. There are also other manufacturing options available with volume.

If none of these options speak to you grab some 1/8" stock, a hacksaw, and a drill!
 
Ok another question. I'm asking in regards to the 2021+ refresh models.
Between Mountain Pass Performance vs the N2itive which is best to go with? Which is the better setup?

No I'm not going to Race-Days....or Track my car.....regardless of the price between the 2 manufacturers. Which is the best setup....if I wanted to go with the Camber Kit route....

Thankyou in advance

Neither. All of this has been throughly discussed in the thread.
 
I have the shims. Cost me ~$80 and I have 1.1-1.5° rear camber now.
Hey towndrunk. I still have not bought the shims we talked about several months ago. I wanted to see how my car behaves with the wear first. So far I have 12K miles and my tires seem to be wearing fine and I don't see any excessive wear on the inner side. I will keep monitoring.

Someone posted earlier in one of the threads that the only concern a person may have with shims is corrosion due to different metals in contact with each other in areas that salt the roads or near coastal areas which have more salt in the air. I live a couple miles from the beach and my air is 'saltier'. I am aware that the anodization of metal creates separation of the metals so you reduce the chance for that type of corrosion. Do you know if the 'silver' shims are anodized or are bare metal? I assume the red ones are anodized.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RC51 Tofuman
Hey towndrunk. I still have not bought the shims we talked about several months ago. I wanted to see how my car behaves with the wear first. So far I have 12K miles and my tires seem to be wearing fine and I don't see any excessive wear on the inner side. I will keep monitoring.

Someone posted earlier in one of the threads that the only concern a person may have with shims is corrosion due to different metals in contact with each other in areas that salt the roads or near coastal areas which have more salt in the air. I live a couple miles from the beach and my air is 'saltier'. I am aware that the anodization of metal creates separation of the metals so you reduce the chance for that type of corrosion. Do you know if the 'silver' shims are anodized or are bare metal? I assume the red ones are anodized.
All of our shims are anodized included the silver color. FYI, our shims come with 6 years warranty
 
Hey towndrunk. I still have not bought the shims we talked about several months ago. I wanted to see how my car behaves with the wear first. So far I have 12K miles and my tires seem to be wearing fine and I don't see any excessive wear on the inner side. I will keep monitoring.

Someone posted earlier in one of the threads that the only concern a person may have with shims is corrosion due to different metals in contact with each other in areas that salt the roads or near coastal areas which have more salt in the air. I live a couple miles from the beach and my air is 'saltier'. I am aware that the anodization of metal creates separation of the metals so you reduce the chance for that type of corrosion. Do you know if the 'silver' shims are anodized or are bare metal? I assume the red ones are anodized.

Yes, I was the one who made the statement about corrosion. The shims I have were anodized and came from Thadeus Strong from the Tesla Model X Plaid Facebook group, but they look identical to the one sold by Secret-EV. Possibly the same people, although I paid $85 for my red set.

I will say the red set isn't enough to get my camber where I want it, so I wouldn't bother with the silver set. My Plaid X is very near to stock height, yet I still have 1.1 and 1.5° negative rear camber.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RC51 Tofuman