Hi,

As the title suggest. Was looking to get some aftermarket TPMS sensors. Any good options out there or will it need to be direct from Tesla.


Not sure if these are an option possibly given they are bluetooth.

Thanks

Hi all, new Tesla owner and it’s a model 3. I am moving back with family and am deciding what to do with my charging situation. I had a couple of questions:

1. If left plugged in overnight and the charge gets to the set limit (80%) will it stop charging and keep the battery warm? I live in Colorado and this cold weather is taking miles away lol. Or will it just completely stop charging at said 80 percent?

2. What is a decent average in rise of electrical cost with charging at home?

3. Does a mobile charger cost less per month electricity wise than having a normal charger? Or is it basically the same amount?

Hello everyone
I posted this in Facebook and got issues with the Admins and people cracking jokes. Serious question
I have a 22 Model Y and recently started to hear very faint clicking noise at low speed. 2-5 MPH .. at Driver side front. Made a service center appointment and was able to reproduce the noise in front of Mechanic he then says your brake calipers are painted so that voids the warranty. Good day to you... I argued and said what do you mean? He said that the noise is probably coming from the brakes and since it's painted that voids the warranty and he can't touch it... I argued back and said it how can that possibly void the warranty? and that it doesn't sound like the brake and more like ball joint or axle or suspension related. His exact words were "Since someone had to remove the caliper and repaint it and then reinstall, that voids the warranty". so I said, if I change the air filter myself does that void the warranty on that also? He looked at me and said Yes... "basically if anyone else beside Tesla touches it, will void the warranty". Now I purchase and work on cars my whole life and call BS on that, but he and the server advisor both agreed and said no warranty

Has this happened to everyone else beside me?

Although the Model 3 requires minimal maintenance, I've found one thing that largely seems to have been overlooked.
The intakes below the front bumper when open , allow unfiltered air to pass over the fins of the aircon radiators. But unlike on my previous cars, where they were vertically mounted and most of the dirt would fall off due to gravity, these are mounted at an angle under the frunk and so retain all the leaves, straw and crap.
I found this useful video online describing the access and cleaning process.
Login to view embedded media I cleaned mine yesterday.. attached are the photos of what I found.
I used a setsquare, but anything long and flat would do, vacuuming out the detritus ( the nozzle isn't nearly think or long enough to reach it all) followed by a long thin ish bottle brush to brush the remaining dust away.
Hope this helps.

Hi, I didn't seem to find an answer to the specific question, so posting here.
I rent, and have a NEMA 10-30R wall plug that is used for a dryer.
Tesla sells a 10-30 adaptor for the UMC (I'll be buying the latest version of UMC). My understanding, however, is that Tesla does not use the Neutral wire, but does require a Ground wire.
1. Does the Tesla adaptor route the plug's Neutral wire to the internal Ground in the UMC? My understanding is that it's a no-no to short Neutral to ground at the device level.

2. I was thinking of getting a splitter so that I wouldn't be plugging in and out of the wall plug often and could keep the dryer plugged in (though I would never run the two at the same time). I saw a comment on how a splitter might interfere with the UMC temperature sensor. How does a splitter cause that, and would it fix the issue if I unplugged the dryer from the splitter?

Thanks very much for your feedback.

At the dealer yesterday he said you do not need to goto touch less car wash. That was the advice for older cars. But newer cars like 2021 with the heat pumps you can use the one with the brushes. It does not matter. Is that so? Anyone else here use the brushes or bristles? Not sure why the older teslas would would be affected and not the new ones.

I calculated that I think I need to achieve 250 wh a mile to get a range of 315 miles

I tried to do this on recent 60 mile trip, no matter what I did I couldn’t get the wh per mile under 270, that’s the lowest I could get even when going 50-55 mph and no AC

What can I do to get it to 250wh so I can get the rated range?

Drove the LR Highland at the Fremont Factory yesterday and there are a LOT of changes that the reviewers didn’t mention. All new speaker system in different locations, all buttons - including the door releases - are solid state with haptic feedback, the frunk area is completely redesigned with the washer fluid reservoir in the front, the trunk now has large, deep side bins on both sides, the hood is VERY easy to latch now, the trunk motor is virtually silent, the seats are NOTICEABLY more comfortable and feels like sitting on gel, the interior fit/finish/materials are top notch. The car has the standard 18” wheels and the ride is MUCH smoother than the old model - it’s not subtle - yet it flew around on/off-ramps flat and without complaints. The car is silent inside to the point where you don’t hear anything. Couldn’t hear any wind noise on the highway. What’s also impressive is that you can’t hear the front motor anymore so there must be more firewall insulation or something. I walked away shocked and couldn’t believe it was the same as the outgoing model. Oh, and for anyone concerned about the missing stalks, I got used to the turn signal buttons in about 10mins. Well done.

Just like a boat.…..the day I bought my Plaid, and the day…..well you know how it goes.

I sold my Plaid to Carvana. Wrote them a check for $27,000 because I paid $128k for it new just over two years ago, and now it’s only worth $53,000. Tesla depreciation.

I LOVED the Plaid, when it wasn’t in the shop, for many reasons. The performance, the styling, the minimalism and sleeper look, the buying process.

I couldn’t take another day of it being in the shop. Wondering if there would be a loaner available. Wondering if it will sit untouched in their lot for weeks waiting for parts. I couldn’t spend another week wondering when and which tire would have the tread separate next, hoping it would happen at home and not when it’s parked at the airport. Oh the week long wait for a replacement tire that is never in stock for that size. That’s good stuff.

N2itive rear arms were going to solve the tire issue, but every time I had to bring my car in for service (which was often), I had to pay $500 to have the arms removed or Tesla wouldn’t touch the car. Then I had to pay $500 to have the arms put back on after Tesla was done not really fixing the problem the car was in the shop for.

The jarring suspension that kept having links break or loosen. The placebo Sport and Comfort modes. The horn. Love when someone about side swipes me while they are texting and I furiously smack the airbag hoping they hear it. The center horn is coming. Let’s all check the part number of our recalled airbags to see if it has the coveted switch under it that will never come. At least there aren’t any of those pesky turn signal stalks that only get In the way when you are trying to make a turn. Roundabouts turn into IQ tests while you try to teach your brain to determine which arrow to press based on how many revolutions you have made with the yoke. Oh the yoke. I had them replace that for free so at least I could parallel park or do a three-point U-turn without running into a curb.

I will miss the one attribute Tesla did right. The superchargers. Well, starting this year my new Mercedes will be charging at those same Superchargers so I guess I won’t be missing it for long.

I‘m done with the Elon lies of Steam coming for my Plaid. 200mph. Rear seat gaming, movies, etc.

I’m done with Tesla.

That felt good. Therapeutic. Putting this on the Tesla forum should be fun. << GRENADE!! >>

I’ll go heat up some popcorn.

The previous owner did remove his account but didn’t do the factory reset

I’ve already added my account to the vehicle

Is it safe for me to do the factory reset now that the vehicle is already in my account? Will it remove my account, all the card keys and my phone key?

The vehicle also had full self driving, will it erase that with a factory reset?

Other than the price (20-30k), the new Macan EV seems to be better in almost every way. Any MY owners consider switching?

I'm swaying more towards at MY after test driving a M3H yesterday, purely based on the leasing costs being a lot cheaper vs the amount of metal your money gets you,

Is the sound system the same for all MYs or is it like the 3 with different set ups for per spec?

Lately I have been becoming aware of certain states charging extra government "taxes and fees" for registering a Tesla or non-Tesla EV. While it is true that gasoline taxes cover a portion of local highway road repairs, EV owners do not share in collecting this fee at the pumps. Luckily in NY we have no such penalties. Wondering how other states are handling this and what might be the future plans for states not currently charging extra taxes and fees for EVs. Seems a bit disjointed that nonpolluting EV owners should pay a penalty for helping save the planet.

Last night I run for the first time the build in Battery Health test from service mode on my +3 years old Tesla M3 Long Range (E5D battery) and +75.000 Km. I got home at around 21:20 with 5% SOC so I said this is a good moment to kick the test. I recorded data with Scan My Tesla during the test and here are some key moments:

• The car started to warm the battery using energy from the charger (from 13 Celsius – outside 2 degrees);
• At 21:40, the battery warming stopped with Cell temp medium showing 25 Celsius;
• Until, 23:15, the car did not went to sleep and consumed between 130-150W from the high voltage battery;
• At 23:15, the car started to charge the battery;
• At around 6:15 AM, the car stop charging and I got an alert on my phone that the car is charged to 100%.

I went to the car at 12:00 PM and the Battery Health test results are somewhat surprisingly good, indicating only 3% battery degradation!

I got the car in December 2020 and at 100% the car was showing 523Km of ideal range. In January 2021, I got an update that “boosted” the display range on my car to 534Km. Right now the displayed ideal range is bouncing between 507 and 510. Having said that, I was expecting that Tesla would use 534Km as a “reference” for max when was new but it looks like it is using the 523Km. Well, no matter which one Tesla is using, both numbers looks good to me.

What do you think and what is your experience with degradation?

If you want to know more about this car you can follow me here: https://www.youtube.com/c/ZEFElectric

New Owner of a Black Model Y, and researching the options to clean my car, and it seems it's not a simple choice.

I'm not looking to keep my car in a pristine, shiny, showroom-like condition for its entire life, I just want it to use the car normally and for it to look decent and not uncared for.

Where I live, I could wash my previous, much cheaper lighter colored car, once every 4-8 weeks and it didn't look unclean most of the time unless you were to get up close and pull up your magnifying glass.

Now I read that the Tesla Owner's Manual states you should only use a touchless car wash if you use an automatic car wash, while not saying if it's referring to plastic or cloth bristles auto car washes.

CAUTION
If washing in an automatic car wash, use touchless car washes only. These car washes have no parts (brushes, etc.) that touch the surfaces of Model Y. Some touchless car washes use caustic solutions that, over time, can cause discoloration of decorative exterior trim. Avoid exposure to soaps and chemicals above pH 13. If unsure, check the product label or ask the staff at the car wash. Damage caused by improper washing is not covered by the warranty.

Click to expand...

The problem with a touch-less car wash from what I've read is they use more aggressive chemicals and, especially with black cars, some have reported some surfaces can became discolored.

Researching PPF, a full PPF where I live costs the same or very close to a full body respray, but IIRC you then you void your 5 years warranty of your paint from Tesla.

So unless I'm missing something, I'd rather do a full car polish once every 2-3 years if the paint's state ends up bothering me that much (up to 1000 EUR)

So looking to hear from black car owners that didn't baby their car but at the same time didn't want it to look uncared for, is PPF the only way?
Is Ceramic an option? How long did it typically last for you?
Or can you use automatic car washes once 1-2 months and not worry all the time?

And compared to my 2019 model S the interior build quality is night and day
The new S feels almost audi quality on the interior. Everything feels exceptionally solid. So much has changed yet so much is identical to my car. Unfortunately LHD is a non starter.

The 3 has same level of interior build quality. Really nice but I can't live without a dash display. Interior lighting is a nice touch and all round its a nice car. Those door handles are despicable though.

Give the 3 some decent door handles and a dash display and I think you would get a ton of S owners making the jump. I would. As it stands unless the S or X go RHD I'll have to find a new EV brand. Current eyes are on lotus.

I picked up my new Highland yesterday. I hadn't appreciated how difficult it is going to be to drive the car without the indicator stalk. If you do a tight left turn then right, for example, the indicator buttons are in the wrong place given the movement of the steering wheel. Roundabouts/three point turns are going to be really challenging. Also, changing gears without a stalk is not easy either. The car has some major improvements from my 2019 Tesla but I'm not sure I would have bought it had I taken a test drive beforehand so for anyone looking to buy one, I would recommend you try it out first. I'm hoping that Tesla will either relent and come up with an after care kit or someone else will come up with one.

Says under "software" -- "additional info": "CCS Adapter Not Supported. "

Is it possible to be added to my 2018 Tesla M3, LR, AWD? Is it software or hardware that is required for the CCS adapter support?

How is it done?

-Don- Reno, NV

I wanted to provide an update to my post from a month ago. Tesla had mesed up my door when I took it in for misaligned door panels. They offered to send it to the body shop and get it fixed. here is my orignal post if you are interested.


I received my car back on Thursday. Many on here told me it's an easy fix and that my expectations were unreasonable. I've attached some pictures and would like to hear opinions on if you would be happy with this result.

I read about the rear seat bolts recall. And the auto steer recall. Now this.

I thought Tesla's were supposed to be the best. What is up with all these recalls?

So I’m real close on a 2019 Model S Performance with FSD. I haven’t been able to actually drive one. I drove a new Y performance so I feel like the 2019 would be close to the same for acceleration at least right?

I’m just stuck on buying direct from Tesla with a small warranty on this 2019 or even possibly for 10k more a 2021 version.

The Tesla rep was really pushing the new model 3 on me which I wasn’t a huge fan of. Specifically the seats on the 3 didn’t really feel like a 3+ hr seat. I currently have a 22yr old Lexus LS 430 which is still very comfortable so that’s why I’m leaning on the model S. Seems to be a much better car.

Tesla won’t let you drive it before you basically commit to the used one so it’s a tough decision…

Guess my question to the group is would you go with a 2019 or is the 2021 that much better for 10k more? Both FSD, performance editions.

So the official explanation for the MSP range reduction is for 2 reasons. One, the EPA changed it's testing routine which doesn't result in an actual reduction, just the way it's listed. Two, some actual range reduction due to "comfort and functionality" improvements.

Tesla has declined to decouple the weighting of reason "1" vs "2". i.e. we don't know how much REAL range reduction there is from reason "2".

Tesla originally claimed to me in a chat that the reason the MSLR didn't have a listed reduction is due to new lower rolling resistance tires that improved the range by the same amount as the reductions for reasons 1 and 2.

This is false. '24 MSLR inventory cars showing up have the exact same tires as before.

To confuse the matter further, the MXLR and MXP are only 9 miles apart in EPA range difference which is a closing of the gap while the MSLR and MSP are now 37 miles apart which is a massive increase in gap. Also, the MXP reduction was only 7 miles vs 37 for the MSP. So all kinds of things just not adding up.

Any thoughts? Range is super important to me because I take long trips of state. What I'm really trying to suss out is the actual real world difference between the '23 and '24 MSP range.

All,

My 2023 Model S Plaid is in the shop for a track package install, and the loaner vehicle Tesla provided me is a 2023 Model S with a steering wheel. I have seen countless threads on steering with a yoke versus steering with a standard round(ish) steering wheel, and I am finally able to make an informed analysis.

Driving with a steering wheel is (as expected) much easier to use to toss the Model S around in the curves. More control, more grip variations, and no learning curve.

The downsides?

As many have noted, one of the major downsides is visibility. No matter how I adjusted the steering wheel to fit me, it blocked the driver’s display more than the yoke. I felt as if there was no correct position for the steering wheel…. But there is more:

If one were to suggest that a car has a soul, a defining characteristic that makes it utterly unique, then replacing the yoke with a standard steering wheel is like ripping the soul out of the Model S. It would be fair, I think, for those reading this to find my previous statement to be a bit melodramatic, but bear with me.

When I enter my Model S Plaid with a yoke, the yoke is the center of focus, not only for me, but for every passenger who gets in my car. Typical first words are “this feels like a spaceship”, and this is BEFORE I accelerate. The yoke seems to “fit” the Model S in a way that a steering wheel simply does not. For me, having a standard steering wheel in the Model S is nothing more than a regression to the mean; instead of standing out, it pulls the entire interior and driving experience down (with the noted exception to racing control, which I do very rarely since I daily drive with my Model S Plaid).

I can guarantee everyone reading this missive that the complaints about driving with a yoke are overblown; it becomes as natural as driving with a round wheel very quickly. In my opinion, the clownish attempts to portray maneuvering in tight areas on YouTube have more to do with novice driving and exaggeration than actual flaws related to driving with a yoke.

In my opinion, if you are trying to make the decision between a yoke and a steering wheel; stick with a standard wheel if you are not a gearhead, if you prefer an automatic transmission to a standard transmission, and if a vehicle is just a way to get from point A to point B.

If however, you want to experience everything there is to be experienced in a Model S, if you know how to drive and are able to adapt and learn, and most of all, if you want rise above the mean, get the yoke and stick with it; you will be richly rewarded.

Joe


"Tesla Model S Steering Wheel (Day 7 of 50)" by Au Kirk is licensed under CC BY 2.0.
Admin note: Imaged added for Blog Feed thumbnail

Onze TWC gen2 van 5,5 jaar oud heeft het altijd prima gedaan. Vorige week kleurde hij (en de laadpoort van onze MS) opeens rood. Foutmeldingen op het scherm:

CHG_u007 Rapportagefout laadapparatuur
CC_f013 Kan niet opladen: laadgreep te warm

Die laatste is echt onzin: het is nogal koud buiten en de lader was ongebruikt. 3 seconden de reset knop indrukken verhielp het direct. Totdat afgelopen dinsdag hetzelfde gebeurde. Ook mijn MY wilde niet meer laden met vergelijkbare meldingen in het scherm. Na veel resetten (met de knop en automaat in de meterkast) ging mijn MY weer laden. Woensdagochtend omgeprikt naar de MS zonder succes. Wat ik ook deed, het laden wilde niet starten. Ook mijn MY pakte de lader niet meer. Gelukkig stond er een TWC gen2 op marktplaats, dus die heb ik gehaald en vrijdag geïnstalleerd. Vannacht zowel de MY en MS weer lekker vol geblazen maar nu heb ik verdorie weer hetzelfde probleem. De MS wil niet laden met exact dezelfde foutmeldingen. De MY doet het nog wel dus nu verdenk ik toch de MS. Het vreemde is dat de MS wel prima op 1 fase 13A laadt met de granny charger.

Heeft iemand dit ooit ook aan de hand gehad?

De meldingen van MY zijn:

CC_a013 Kan niet opladen: laadgreep te warm
CC_a018 Kan niet opladen: probleem autoverbinding

We just moved into an apartment with a garage and the construction here isn’t new exactly and as such, the garage outlets don’t have a dedicated receptacle. Because of this, when i try to charge at 12A, the voltage drops from 122V to 109V which isn’t safe for extended usage per my understanding. I checked the UMC as well as the plug and neither was warm.

Anyways, to get around this, i am charging it at 8A where the voltage hovers between 113-114V. I don’t have a lot of daily commute so even this trickle charge would work for me if I can keep it plugged in for extended periods. But my worry is whether it’s safe to do so. I already know that the circuit in the garage isn’t the greatest considering the voltage drop at max current draw but is it safe to use at 8A where the voltage drop will be limited and between 113-114V?