My 2022 model x had a box for tow hitch. Aside from lacking charging adaptor and key fobs, is Tesla no longer giving tow hitch?

New Supercharger under construction at 929 W foothill Blvd. 16+ pre-fab supercharger concrete bases on site.

So i live on the road and i need a way to charge my laptop. My laptop charger is 150w so i found this 150w converter. Is this safe to use, Would this harm the battery of the car in anyway? Also if theres any techs, would it be safe for the laptop too?

I park my car in an old shed/garage and noticed the smell of urine two weeks ago. Took out the frunk and found droppings that are typical of what you see on Tesla forums and YouTube tutorials.

This week I went ALL OUT on rat prevention. Took out the drunk and thoroughly cleaned, disinfected with a wet-dry vac, multiple times. Installed repellent diffusers, sprayed peppermint oil nightly, and installed TWO Ultrasonic audio emitters as well as double sided tape. Additionally I emptied my whole garage, cleaned and disinfected, decluttered, and installed chicken wire around the entire interior perimeter about a foot high, over some holes in the Sheetrock that I assumed were the entry point.

After a week of busting ass on this today I walked in and there was a fresh rat turd under the car, approx right under the center console location. I popped the frunk and two more fresh poops were 6” from the diffuser can and the feint smell of urine.

Absolutely at my wits end. The shed is old but I cannot afford to tear it down/rebuild another. I have absolutely no clue how it got in, unless it jumped down from the ceiling?!

The only thing I can think is that the rat(s) never left the car for the entire week it took to do all this work? Where else do rodents go in the car? Can I easily remove other panels to access common problem areas?

Also, is it possible to let the car sit somewhere “cold” and unplugged so the rat(s) lose interest b/c there’s no heat generated? Or will it still kick out a heat source?

Other clues: There’s no food source anywhere. I dont eat in, or allow eating in my car. The opposite side of the glove box has nibbles in the frunk area, but they haven’t gotten inside the car or glovebox.

Any help appreciated b/c I just invested about 25 hours of work into this and failed. Driving me crazy.

In case anyone was thinking of getting the Gemini wheel cap kit for $90, there is literally no difference to the ones on Amazon for under $20. The quality is identical (plastic seems the same) and I actually think the ones I got Here have tighter fitting lug nut covers. A few of the Tesla lug nut covers were a little loose, I have a feeling they would fly off when driving.

Save yourself some money because I do not see any difference. Awful photo in between rain squalls, but here is the black amazon cap vs. the Tesla silver cap. I ended up not using the lug nut covers because the bolts without caps looked better to me.

So.

I had a problem about 1 month ago. The Tesla died out of nowhere.

Got it to Tesla and got a new 12v. Worked fine for about a week. After this it died again. (Died meaning totally unresponsive).

I got another appointment after this and they had the car for about 2 weeks with the response ”tightened the 12v bolts, no problem, car now works fine”.

Got it back. About 10 days ago again - dead.

The only thing connecting these 3 times is the temperature. all three times the temperature was below 0 degrees celsius, so as soon as its frosty.

Any idea guys?

I've read every post I can find, and I'm still here wondering if there's something off with my battery. I did a full charge last night as I was going somewhere today and my range at 100% was 304 miles. I did notice the range on the Tesla website for the MYLR recently changed to 310 miles (was 330 when I bought it 2 weeks ago).

What I am curious about is why after only driving 9 miles since the charge, this morning my car was at 90% and my range now says 273 miles. The math doesn't add up. I know everyone says ignore the range and just focus on percentage, but I'm still scratching my head. The only thing I can think of is leaving it in sentry mode overnight is responsible for the missing 22 miles of range.

Sorry if this has been covered ad nauseum, I'm just looking for clarification that my battery is working as expected. Thanks for any help in advance.

So my car has a flat, I've booked a tyre replacement with the service centre and they've just told me that the tyre is on order and they'll let me know when it arrives.

Firstly it's a bit crazy that they don't keep any tyres in stock. I've got the regular M3 wheels, so no idea why they don't have any available.

Does anyone have any experience with this recently and knows how long it usually takes to get the tyres in? Trying to decide whether I should just wait or try to get some mobile tyre fitting option.

All I ever seem to get is 6 - 7 kW from type 2 public chargers , they are free but is that the standard range. Also what’s the + digit kWh

Draadje om ervaringen te delen.
Ik begin alvast met mijn RWD highland:

Zojuist de Matrix LED uitgeprobeerd in de provinciale wegen. Setting: 60 weg met bomen aan iedere zijde en ernaast een fietspad (weilanden rondom Utrecht). Het is een goede work-in-progress. De cameras detecteren aankomende autos best goed maar fietsers zonder felle belichting niet (logisch). Dus zo’n kleine lampje om onder een boete uit te komen is niet genoeg voor de camera. Kreeg rare opmerkingen van fietsers.. Zodra het donker genoeg is werkt Matrix LED automatisch. Je hoeft verder geen knop in te drukken. Dimmen doet hij op twee manieren.
1. Hij zet je high beams aan 1 zijde helemaal uit. Dit doet de auto als hij objecten niet goed kan uitmaken.
2. De LED koplampen werken in verticale strepen die afhankelijk van de tegemoetkomende auto sequentieel aan en uit gaan.

Doordat de camera relatief hoog zit vergeleken met de gemiddelde rijpositie, herkent de auto tegemoetkomers best goed in situaties waar tussen jou en de andere auto een heg of een rail is. In bochten kan de auto actief meerdere autos verduisteren en de rest goed belichten.

In 60 wegen die door dorpen lopen gaan de matrix LED’s niet uit. Ze blijven aan. Dat is niet altijd even fijn omdat je dan direct in de woonkamer van iemand je high beams straalt. Bovendien zijn er in een dorp relatief veel borden die teveel licht reflecteren.

Ik denk dat dit een goed begin is maar zeker nog wat werk nodig heeft. Ik had momenten waar de auto af en toe net iets te laat een tegemoetkomer herkende. Heb in ieder geval naast een aantal boze fietsers geen boze automobilisten gezien.

Sinds een tijdje doet de autopilot zelfrijzen het niet meer als je de rechter handel 2 keer snel naar beneden doet (Tesla y rwd, nov 2022). Bij 1 keer gaat de cruise control wel aan, maar bij 2 keer snel dus niet de autopilot (zelf sturen). Wie herkent dit probleem en hoe op te lossen

Hello,

I’m new to this group and this is my first post. I apologize if this post is not correct in any way.

Please let me explain our situation. We purchased a MYLR in January of 2023 when there was a price drop. We live in a condominuim and so reached out the our HOA to gauge how they would respond to our desire to have a wal connector installed in our parking spot. They referred us to Florida statute concerning this (Chapter 718 Section 113 - 2020 Florida Statutes - The Florida Senate) which reads as pro-EV indicating HOAs may not prevent a condo owner from installing a wall connector in their own parking spot at our own cost. This sounded reasonable to us so we proceeded with the purchase and started looking for electricians.

This endeavor has turned out to be a nightmare. Most of the electricians we attempted to get quotes from refused to quote the job with the HOA intimidating the contractors at every step. Consequently we were only able to find one electrical company willing to work with us and the HOA. The job requires us to have a separate meter managed by our electrical company and a 150’ conduit run from the electrical vault to our parking spot. The quote we receive for this job was $12,000. This seemed excessive to us but assumed the premium cost was due to issues having to work with an HOA, beside the fact we could not get any other electrician to give us a quote. The entire year of 2023 was spent dealing with the HOA’s ever changing requirements, lies and lawyers. We finally thought we were getting somewhere when, on the boards final session before the new board was voted in, during the beginning of 2024, they approved us to install our wall connector. We thought we would finally have our wall connector until the HOA presented us with a contract to sign with 18 stipulations.

This brings me to the reason for my post. Stipulation 10 is concerns insurance and reads as follows:
10) Owners must provide a certificate of hazard and liability insurance within fourteen (14) days of installation and name the Association as an additional insured on their owner’s policy for any claim related to installation, maintenance, or use of the vehicle charging station in the amount of at least $300,000. The Association may enforce payment of such costs pursuant to s.718.116.This policy must be maintained as long as the charging station remains in place and the Owner must provide a new certificate upon renewal. Failure to maintain such insurance shall require removal of the charging station and all equipment within 14 days of the lapse of the policy.

I would like to point out that the statute 718.113 (f)4 indicates: 4.Provide a certificate of insurance naming the association as an additional insured on the owner’s insurance policy for any claim related to the installation, maintenance, or use of the electric vehicle charging station within 14 days after receiving the association’s approval to install such charging station.

Given this we thought we could just have the association added as “additional insured” to our home owners insurance and that would cover their demands. We contacted our insurance agent and they would only agree to add our HOA as “additional interest” stating:

Adding the association as an additional insured on a policy creates a huge exposure and that is why most companies will not.

Click to expand...

The HOA confirmed that they would not be satisfied with this. So we are again facing another road block. Talk of us moving out or giving up on the wall connector all together has come up.


It has been suggested that our current car insurer Geico might be able to cover this but we were unsure about this. I just noticed that Tesla has an “Electric Vehicle Protection Package” including coverage for a Tesla wall charger and Tesla electronic key replacement but Tesla insurance is not yet available in Florida. I would like to know if anyone else has had to find this coverage and where they got it. I would also like to know if anyone has any other advice or thought on dealing with HOAs. If there is a lot of interest in the subject of dealing with HOAs perhaps it could be added as another channel or group or whatever it is called.

Thank you for your time and reading my post I look forward to any responces.

Have a nice day.

I'd like to refer to a recent explanation of body surface "corrosion" which is not try corrosion, but likely staining and d/t the type of steel used as well as lack of protectant applied on all Cybertruck vehicles. It is my opinion that these trucks should never have been released without either surface protection or, more specifically, without informing the purchaser of this possibility. This type of error should not have occurred, but since it has, Tesla needs to fix the issue immediately, including repairing the problem on sold cars. If not, Tesla's sales and reputation will be severely injured. That said, I'm sure that Tesla will deal with this problem appropriately. Right?

So Stellantis has a new concept car for 2025 Halcyon (may not even come to be) and in their promo video it boasts “unlimited range” How is this even possible and is this the future or end to range anxiety ?

Well, this is not a great introduction to Tesla. I'm very sorry for the long post.

I bought my 2015 Model S P85D a couple of weeks ago. I haven't driven it a whole lot. Maybe 100 miles or so. Yesterday I drove into the town with my 3 1/2 year old to get a car wash. This is a stationary no-touch car wash if that might makes a difference. I set the suspension to the highest setting (to maybe wash inside the wheel wells better), and put the car in park once I was in position. I manually turned off the dome lights, so we could watch the car wash lights. The car wash finished, I drove it home and backed into my driveway with no issues. When I opened the driver's door, the dome lights didn't come on, even after I set them back to auto. Also, the driver's door puddle light was blinking on and off in a seemingly steady pattern. I didn't think a whole lot about it, got out of the car, shut the door, and walked around to the right rear door. The door handles were retracted and did not self-present. My son opened the door from the inside. Not thinking, I shut the door and we were locked out. The auto headlights did not turn off. After a call to service and tinkering around with the app, I got the climate control to turn on and the hatch to open, although powered, it did not open on its own. I had my son crawl through and open the driver's door. I reset both screens, which did not solve the issue. I tried a few things inside. The wipers work, but not the windows. I pushed the hazard light button, but they did not come on. I did walk away from the car at one point (to have a bourbon, if I'm being honest), and the headlights turned off and the hazard lights turned on. Partly because I hadn't done it since I bought the car, and because of this issue, I did a factory reset from the main screen and called it a night. The hazards were on all night, all doors were shut except for the rear hatch (which was shut, but not latched), and the door handles were all presented. This morning, I walked out with a key fob in my pocket, and the now retracted door handles self-presented. I got in the car, called service again, and we spent 45 minutes or so working on the issue. I also took apart the frunk to see if maybe the 12v battery was the issue. At some point, someone has replaced the original battery with a lithium from Ohmmu, so I'm unable to test it with my battery tester.

About an hour ago, the car itself and the app, went from showing both the front and rear trunks open, along with the driver's door. All of them were shut. Then the app showed everything shut up and locked properly, so I tried honking the horn from the app, and it worked. I got in the car to try to move it, but it still wouldn't recognize there was a key fob with me. The mirrors were folded and as I walked up to the driver's door all the door handles self-presented and the mirrors unfolded. I just checked the app before posting this, and the driver's door shows open, but it is not. I can still control the climate control from the app and open both the front and rear trunks with the key fob. It seems as though every time I walk away from the car for some time, things change, But it still does not recognize the key fob is with me. I did try updating the key fob, but the card didn't even recognize it was there, next to the antenna near the center console power point.

I have an appointment at my local service center for Thursday, but I'm really hoping to get this resolved, especially since there is no warranty left on this car.

I am very familiar with most things automotive, but again, this is my first Tesla, and I am at a complete loss.

Model s 2013 .it was raining, I came home ,parking lights were on like someone was stepping on the pedal brake, now isn't working...everything works but I step on the brake and wouldn't shift to drive or reverse, it keeps saying car off... I took it to tesla dealership they charged me 264 dlls to tell me that harness problem. But what harnesses? Brake harness

Hi Everyone,

Im currently a 73 reg M3LR RWD owner but the lease has to end due to personal changes in circumstances. Ive loved the car during the 5k miles Ive driven and am now considering purchasing a used M3P as bizarrely the insurance is cheaper than a LR so why not.

Im looking at a 69 or 70 reg (non HP models) with lower miles of around 25k. Is there anything I should be looking out for?

Thank you

I am looking for suggestions on my next move or comments on what others have been offered from Tesla. I ordered a Model Y that was in transit to the West Palm Beach Tesla store on 2/3/24 with a pick up date of 2/13/24. This vehicle and others had a price adjustment of $5000. I had gone through all the steps on the Tesla app. through the final payment and was just waiting for the agreement before the pick up. On 2/12/24 Tesla starts to change the steps on the Tesla app to reschedule the pick up date, come to find out the vehicle needed to go into service prior to delivery. The VIN was changed out on the agreement and a new agreement was on the app with NO price adjustment so essential the price went up the $5000. I called the West Palm Beach office and they said that the only way I could get the price adjustment was to wait until the vehicle is serviced and take delivery on the original car. Fast forward to yesterday and the vehicle is out of the service and now applied to my RN# but we now have a NEW agreement that is the current price adjustment of only $2450, but I have to be fair as the vehicle price was also reduced from when I purchased originally by $1000. Net this NEW agreement is $1550 more for the same car that I purchased on 2/3/24 that because of a TESLA issue had to go into service prior to delivery. I had to also be inconvenienced an additional 5 days without a vehicle (our Model 3 was totaled in an accident). Would appreciate any comments on this.

Woof. Ran my M3P as low as it ever has gone yesterday, making it home with 3% (and adjusting my speed from 70 to 65 to make sure I got there). This was only a 162-mile round trip but it was cold (10° to 20°), so I used the new navigation software in the app to plan it out. It showed I had about 27% to spare!

Yeah… not so much. Started with 97% charge and barely made it back. Had this been off by a bit more I would have been stranded in the middle of nowhere, in freezing temps, in the middle of the night.

I assume this is because the cold. Also had a headwind in the way home that cost about 4%, but overall just super bummed in both the crappy range and that the planning estimate was so far off.

Posting (1) as a PSA but also (2) did I screw something up here? What could I have done to avoid this in the future??

I owe payment to tesla and I got my vehicle deleted from the app today. i found it deleted after at 5PM. The vehicle is jot repossessed or being towed yet. Are they in the process of repossession or is this a warning? Does anyone know?

Have a 2021 Model Y and have decided to purchase an aftermarket suspension and wheels. I would like the suspension to be adjustable. The easier to adjust the better. The wheels like to be forged, one piece, and lighter than the Gemini wheels that are currently on the car. Any and all suggestions is appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Why is this?

Is there any logical reason (engineering/warranty/cost etc) why Tesla would prevent the end user to direct (via the app)

1/ When to charge their battery? and

2/ How rapidly to charge their battery?

Is Elon Musk so arrogant that he thinks the AI in his app is so intelligent it knows everything about how/when/why a customer might want to charge their battery and when to discharge it?

Came across this Norwegian Website whilst looking for Australian standards for home charging an Electric Vehicle. Alt du trenger å vite om hjemmelading which if I understand the translation correctly is the Norwegian Automobile Association.

Given we share similarities with Norway's electrical system and they are further down the road in implementing EV's into their national road fleet, should we implement similar regulations

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Can I charge with a socket?
From 1 July 2022, you must install a charging box when you create a new charging point at home. The grounded socket for use for regular charging of electric cars has been removed in the new installation standard NEK 400:2022, which applies to low-voltage electrical installations.
This means that you must install a charging box with a type 2 connector if you need a new charging point for electric car charging.
The standard applies to new installations and does not have retroactive effect. It thus does not affect established charging points before 1 July 2022. The change also does not mean that emergency charging using an existing earthed household socket is prohibited.

From <Alt du trenger å vite om hjemmelading>


Charge with a standard socket
From July 2022, there is a requirement for a charging box with a type 2 connector for new installations for permanent electric vehicle charging - the standard does not have retroactive effect and so-called emergency charging is still permitted.
The fact that the standard does not have retroactive effect means that if you have arranged for permanent charging using a socket before July 2022, you can still use this installation for permanent charging. These are the rules that apply to installations made before 1 July 2022:

• You must have your own course for the electric car
• Max 10 A course
• The course must have an earth fault circuit breaker type B
• You must always pull the cable out of the car before removing the plug from the socket when you have finished charging

Install a basket or a hook that can be used to hang the charging box and cable when charging, both to relieve the weight of the charging cable (the connector cannot withstand the weight) and to avoid wear and tear on the charging equipment.
The guidelines for charging only apply where you charge on a daily basis. You can therefore "emergency charge" at your mother-in-law's or at a friend's, even if dedicated electric car charging is not planned. However, it is important to keep an eye on the contact during charging, as overheating may occur.
It is the Directorate for Public Safety and Emergency Preparedness that enforces the regulations for electrical installations.

• Read more about the guidelines for installation here

New standards for installation of charging points
The change in NEK 400:2022, which comes into effect on 1 July 2022, applies to low-voltage electrical installations. It consists in the fact that it is no longer possible to install an earthed household socket for use for daily or regular charging of electric cars.
This means that if charging is the purpose of the installation, you must install a charging box with a Type 2 connector.

From <Lade med vanlig stikkontakt>