Toolbox 3 setting up computer before starting subscription

Recently helped @mr_hyde to setup toolbox 3 to diag a 2014 MS with the most economical 1 day subscription. Seems like most first timers spend quite awhile dealing with computer IT/connection issues. 1 day subscription could even expires before even getting proper connection to the car working. Here is a quick summary how to set up connection before before starting subscription.

Toolbox 3 is server based. This means the entire diagnostic software is running on Tesla server with Chrome web browser as interface. Very different from traditional car diagnostic tools.

Diagnostic Hardware Interface

Tesla keeps on changing these with each new car model. Here is a summary on page 4. Some of these are cheap ($50 on Amazon for the 2014 MS) while others are quite expensive (21-22 MS/X Powered Media Converter Box)

https://service.tesla.com/docs/Public/service-subscription-faqs/service_subscription_faqs_11AUG2022.pdf

Configuring Computer and Test Connection to car

On this 2014 MCU2 car with a Mac, here is a good video

General steps are as follows

• Setup a ethernet connection to the car and view its internal diagnostic webserver (presumably running on MCU CPU) at 192.168.90.100:8080 This is just like using a specific url address and port number (the 8080) to access say a router or network printer administrative server page. This step confirm your computer is talking to the Tesla properly through the hardware diagnostic cable.
• Enable unsecured content to properly communicate with toolbox server over the internet

I don't really know how macOS knows to route 192.168.90.125 to the ethernet dongle and toolbox.tesla.com over internet connection but it works on macOS. For Windows, may need extra steps to ensure this dual network connection works (saw some info online but didn't end up using windows)

Unfortunately, Tesla seems to have removed the server at 192.168.90.100:8080 with recent firmware ( link ) so will probably get 404 not found instead. To test, make sure

• Get 404 not found at 192.168.90.100:8080 (this confirm computer is talking to the Tesla properly via diagnostic interface cable)
• Make sure can connect to internet by hitting a website

MCU1

For MCU1 cars, I think need to run a proxy windows app. This car was MCU2 so didn't need to do this step.

Enable Unsecured Content on Chrome

This is a must (above video shows how to but its already enabled so didn't show the actual transition). Without this, get some kind of ODIN failure message trying to connect to Tesla's toolbox server. Test it with a unsecured content website to confirm setup properly. I use a unsecured content Chinese headunit firmware server as test

https://file.xygala.com/

enabling/disabling unsecure content wasn't straight forward. We would enable unsecure content for toolbox.tesla.com but hitting the website would still show a lock icon instead "Unsecured Content" to the left of the url. Eventually it worked and not sure how (tried some closing and opening new tabs but not sure that was the solution). But it is a must you need to see Not Secured to the left of url to work properly.

Subscribe Toolbox 3

After everything above works, IT/computer issues should be solved. Then pay for your subscription and hopefully spend most of the subscription time using toolbox rather than fighting IT issues.

Successful Connection

Looks like this

Remote Desktop

If know someone who knows how to setup toolbox (or more IT savoy) can use a remote desktop solution (@mr_hyde and I used free realvnc) for them to drive your computer to setup

Of course this requires keeping internet connection alive during the process for remote desktop. Might be a challenge if Windows present too much roadblock trying to setup 2x network connections (1 to car, 1 to internet)

 

[howardc64]

Did they really make no other changes to the drive unit, or inverter firmware, to support the coolant delete? (I would think it would make the drive units less capable, and more prone to overheating.)

I asked and checked. No firmware change. Simple manifold replace eliminating coolant flow to center of rotor and no more leak prone seal. QC Charge developed aftermarket part is plug and play.

But we also don’t really know the longevity of the hotter running rotor. Some discussion on this and I’ll skip that here.

But I suppose the foot can decide input. Surely driving 120mph constantly is hotter than 70mph. Btw. People who have tracked MS all know car slows after initial lap as something in the system (battery inverter motor?) overheats. So it’s not as if current design can handle constant high demand anyway.

Anyhow without inductor motor design engineering analysis and testing. We don’t know the longevity expectations. Depending on Tesla engineering.

 

[brainhouston]

Tesla, as a company, is in big trouble. Their batteries are starting to fail left and right and that reputation is starting to get around - 'neat car, but you don't want to own one out of warranty'.

I doubt it'll be in any trouble...
Rich ppl that buy new Teslas usually sell it before warranty is over n get another with full warranty again.
Most poor ppl that buy it after warranty won't go to Tesla for battery or any work (me included) and car prices are cheap at this point.
Plus u can either get a used pack or a wrecked car n have a bunch of spare parts n old battery modules to sell..
On top of everything Tesla will keep dropping prices to counteract any reduced demand...

 

[howardc64]

I doubt it'll be in any trouble...
Rich ppl that buy new Teslas usually sell it before warranty is over n get another with full warranty again.
Most poor ppl that buy it after warranty won't go to Tesla for battery or any work (me included) and car prices are cheap at this point.
Plus u can either get a used pack or a wrecked car n have a bunch of spare parts n old battery modules to sell..
On top of everything Tesla will keep dropping prices to counteract any reduced demand...

Yes the premium and I'll call it the "nearly disposable" segment is def there. German brands have lived on it for years. Audi/BMW/Merc all do like 2M+ worldwide in this segment. 100k mile owner (in US, EU even lower) buying the car at 20% original price + DIY is the main downstream ownership. Its also why Tesla appears like a huge risk to them. Direct competition for the segment.

Tesla's biggest change is going to be slowing down as a growth stock. Equity ownership ( and therefore board composition and therefore mgmt ) will change. Musk have tried everything in last few years to drive stock valuation (FSD, Solar, Semi, Storage, Truck, Roadster 2, Robot, AI1, AI2) with some efforts closer to tech investment buzz words than cars. Other key variables including variation in gov subsidy heavily affects this as well. Long range EV margins are tough towards lower price segments with dominant expensive battery tech. Lower priced segment is one path for stock growth but arguably the hardest path : Capital intensive and highest financial risk. No wonder we got Robot and AI2 haha. Musk still has ironman status as his OpenAI chatGPT is the latest tech buzz. But he can't prevent Tesla stock from maturing. Besides “building a city on mars” is the long term hobby that has his focus haha

Personally I think the slowing stock growth and the resulting mgmt change is a good thing. Much more likely to gain repair option and longevity improvement when not a constant stock price play. Arguably Musk probably already got the maximum possible valuation out of the fundamental limit of this venture... lithium ion battery longevity.

 

[mr_hyde]

I agree with Howard. The 'danger' I speak of is the stock valuation. It isn't like Telsa cars are going to cease to exist, but unless they help fix the quickly growing perception that you don't want to own one out of warranty, the rich dudes will buy S/X like the luxury German brands but the middle segment will suffer when 'regular people' don't buy the 3/Y because the value goes to near zero when the warranty expires. The other issue is that guys that become the 2nd owners of the German trio mentioned, will stay away from Tesla.

I have a $110,000 Porsche in the garage too, but I paid $24k for it. I of the reasons I can repair and maintain it myself is that there are several GREAT websites and resources where I can research DIY solutions and several great vendors that sell OEM and aftermarket parts for reasonable amounts. If I run into something I can't or don't want to do, there are a bunch of good independent shops that could work on it too. If we don't get shops in every city that can fix a battery or LDU for a reasonable amount of money, the used Tesla market (and other EV OEMs too) will continue to get worse. I overpaid for my P85D but I'm quite certain my next Tesla will be a screaming deal because it will have an 018 error and I will get it for pennies on the dollar.

 

[lit af]

hello anyone on long island new york with toolbox? need

BMS_a027 & BMS_a170 codes reset. they came up after an update. rebuilt title but not flood damaged​

 

[Durzel]

I've bought a cable to connect a laptop to my car, in advance of some remote coding work being done.

In advance of that - is there any way I can test that the cable actually works? I don't want to find out on the day that it doesn't, if I can avoid it.

The cable part number was 1137658-00-C (a third party replacement) and my car is a 2020 M3P.