Low coolant message Tesla Model S 85D

[Averdi]

Hi Everyone, I already did a lot of due diligence but wanted to see if anyone had any additional feedback. Randomly driving home and a “coolant level low” notification popped on and off for a second.

I went home and checked the level and it is below the min line. The first appointment isnt for another 2 weeks so I just ordered the correct coolant to top it off.

The pic looks like there is some leakage below the container but not positive


I guess the only thing I can do is monitor it to see if it is a slow or fast leak?

 

[Averdi]

 

[airborne spoon]

Just pop into O'Reilly's and grab a bottle of G48 coolant the premix 50/50 and top it off yourself.

But since you're low look around the car for any leaks or drips or dried blue marks because obviously you shouldn't be losing coolant

 

[Averdi]

 

[Averdi]

I posted a few pics. Anything you can see from the pics? Looks like something might be leaking idk tho it was snowing

Just pop into O'Reilly's and grab a bottle of G48 coolant the premix 50/50 and top it off yourself.

But since you're low look around the car for any leaks or drips or dried blue marks because obviously you shouldn't be losing coola

 

[David Harvey]

You need to watch out for coolant leaking into the rear drive unit:

 

[vcor]

You didn't state how old the car is. If in warranty, I'd let Tesla take care of it. Keep in mind the motor/battery has a 8-year warranty, so if the leak is in either of those areas, it should be covered (unless you have high miles).

 

[vcor]

Oh, I vaguely thought the warranty could be limited if you fill the coolant yourself - meaning it might NOT be covered now. I'd check your warranty carefully for those exclusions. I think Tesla is worried you could add a different coolant than they used (and it has changed over the years to different types). Mixing difficult coolants would seem to be ok to me, but they might interact and cause other longer-term issues (internal corrosion).

 

[livesmith]

You need to watch out for coolant leaking into the rear drive unit:

If it's an 85D then I'm not aware of any coolant leaking problems with the drive units since they are small and not rotor cooled. As far as I know the coolant issue is only the LDUs on RWD and P models.

 

[Mrgeorgevargas]

Since last night i was getting a frunk open error message even though it wasn’t and then a coolant low error message. The warnings would come and go. I took the drunk apart and saw that my coolant level was normal, no leaks, but I did notice the frunk button was stuck as if pressed. I topped off the coolant because I went through the trouble of buying some (Prestone), disconnected the frunk release button and reconnected it making sure it wasn’t stuck as if pressed, and my models S seems back to normal. One of the issues that happened when the warnings came on yesterday is that the horn stopped working, and the hazard lights were not showing on the dash as if on. Glad I didn’t go to the dealer. My exploring cost the $20 I spent on the coolant.

 

[gaswalla]

There's a three way coolant valve that is known to leak in early S's... willing to bet that's the issue

 

[Mrgeorgevargas]

There's a three way coolant valve that is known to leak in early S's... willing to bet that's the issue

I didnt see any leaking and the coolant was at the normal line just below the max. I poured very little coolant into the tank to get it up to the Max line. If the error comes back ill update my post.

 

[Mrgeorgevargas]

I didnt see any leaking and the coolant was at the normal line just below the max. I poured very little coolant into the tank to get it up to the Max line. If the error comes back ill update my post.

Update: it’s 6 days later since the first day I had the low coolant warning and 5 days since I adjusted the frunk button and topped off the coolant. Just to be clear, when I topped off the coolant in the tank, the coolant level was not low, was at the normal line, and I added very little coolant to get it to the MAX line of the coolant tank. As of today, my model S 85D is driving without any concerns and the low coolant warning has not returned. The frunk open warning has not returned. I think the two were somehow related. Thoughts?

 

[tekknoschtev]

I had coolant problems, both because of the leaking valves AND because of the faulty ground connection. If the problem is related to the corroded ground connection, it's possible that whatever you did to adjust the frunk button could have temporarily fixed the problem.

This thread (Ground Stud Nut over torqued) was hugely helpful and highlighted other symptoms that crop up as a result of the ground connection issue. I had most of them. On visual inspection, the ground bolt looked fine but it almost crumbled apart as soon as I tried to loosen it. Easy fix if that's the problem for you.

 

[Mrgeorgevargas]

I had coolant problems, both because of the leaking valves AND because of the faulty ground connection. If the problem is related to the corroded ground connection, it's possible that whatever you did to adjust the frunk button could have temporarily fixed the problem.

This thread (Ground Stud Nut over torqued) was hugely helpful and highlighted other symptoms that crop up as a result of the ground connection issue. I had most of them. On visual inspection, the ground bolt looked fine but it almost crumbled apart as soon as I tried to loosen it. Easy fix if that's the problem for you.

This was interesting to read. My headlights both left and right turn off sometimes one, the other, or both. I turn off the lights and then turn them back on and they stay on for a few moments and then it’ll start over. I read somewhere that replacing the bulbs will fix the issue but Tesla will replace the entire assembly for hundreds of dollars. I’ve been trying to figure out if I could replace the bulbs without removing the tires.

 

[vcor]

This was interesting to read. My headlights both left and right turn off sometimes one, the other, or both. I turn off the lights and then turn them back on and they stay on for a few moments and then it’ll start over. I read somewhere that replacing the bulbs will fix the issue but Tesla will replace the entire assembly for hundreds of dollars. I’ve been trying to figure out if I could replace the bulbs without removing the tires.

In 2016 Tesla went all LED, and there are no replaceable bulbs. The headlights are now sealed assemblies. If an LED dies, the entire headlight must be replaced. The original S came with Halogen bulbs as standard for a year or two, but most cars had the Tech package option that included HID headlights. In later years HID became standard before switching to LEDs in late 2016. If you have HID could be a bulb failure or the HID ballast on the back of the headlight.

Seems Tesla recommends replacing both when it dies as both are likely at the end of life, but maybe you can try the bulb first. Looks like it can only be replaced by removing the tire and tire surround, which is a minor pain.