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It's $300 now, I'm sure you can sell yours for $200.it's a neat toy, but at this point I'd rather have my $250 back.
How are you all liking the sense now? EV monitoring becoming more reliable?
My post double posted then disappeared. You sure it's not the power surge of the fridge compressor starting up every 20 minutes? The initial power surge is large, and then the continuous draw is low.I don't have Sense, I'm trying to make sense myself
I've identified most large energy sinks in my house, but I'm looking for suggestions on what people think this might be -- drawing about 2kW roughly every 20 minutes. We have gas heat and hot water, so that's not it. It could be the refrigerator, but I didn't think they pull 2kW.
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Or start flipping off breakers to localize it. I'd binary search on it - turn off half of them and see if it stays or not. Then repeat on the appropriate half.I'd unplug the fridge for 1/2 an hour to verify.
Or start flipping off breakers to localize it. I'd binary search on it - turn off half of them and see if it stays or not. Then repeat on the appropriate half.
I don't have Sense, I'm trying to make sense myself
I've identified most large energy sinks in my house, but I'm looking for suggestions on what people think this might be -- drawing about 2kW roughly every 20 minutes. We have gas heat and hot water, so that's not it. It could be the refrigerator, but I didn't think they pull 2kW.
View attachment 285892
Tell them "it's for science."Yeah, with other people in the house, I don't think that would go over too well.
I think I found it. It's a 10 gallon aux hot water heater tank that's on a 130 degree thermostat.
The thing is, it's connected to a circulator pump which I only run (on a timer, see below) in the morning and evenings. Without the timer, the aux heater tank was running 24x7 and consuming $250 of power every month! (We have a tankless hot water heater so the aux tank is needed to avoid the cold water slug problem). I put the timer on the circ pump to prevent the heater from running when we didn't need it. I didn't realize it would continue to heat the water three times an hour when not needed.
Anyway, I'm going to put the aux tank heater (2000 watts) on a relay to turn on/off with the circulator pump timer switch (TP-Link
HS210 Smart Wi-Fi smart switch). The smart switch can only handle up to 600w so I'll need a relay to turn off the water heater along with the circulator pump.
Do you think this will do the trick as a 120V 15A relay? SSR-25AA FOTEK Soild State Relay AC-AC 25A 80-280VAC 24-380VAC GSE W | eBay
Or maybe this: https://www.amazon.com/Functional-Devices-RIB2401B-Enclosed-Relay/dp/B000LEUJU6/ref=pd_bxgy_60_2
Or does anyone know of better 120V household relays to use?
How often does the circ pump run? If the tank is only on when the the circ pump is running, the water may cool off more than you would like, and then you will need to wait for the pump to move enough water to mix the new hot supply into the 10 gallon tank defeating the purpose. You might be better off wrapping insulation around the tank to reduce the standby loss.
The HS210 is coming up as a 3 way light switch for me. Is that triggering a timer?
How often does the circ pump run? If the tank is only on when the the circ pump is running, the water may cool off more than you would like,
If the pump is 120V (based on the SSR) go with something like this G7L-1A-BUBJ-CB AC100/120.
I think he would just need two timers, one to get the 10-gallon tank up to temperature and a separate one to turn on the circulation pump 10-15 minutes later.
Oops.. it's HS200. A SPST timer smart switch. Works great for my application (cycling the circ pump on a timer as well as on-demand via mobile app).
Right now, the circ pump only runs in the morning and evenings. The tank is "on" 24x7 which is the source of the spikes I was seeing. But when the circ pump runs, the heater for the aux tank is always on -- constantly warming the water circulating to the upper floors. This was driving up my energy consumption more than $250/month until I put a power meter on the lines to figure out what was causing the huge drain. Once I put a switch on the circ pump, the huge energy sink went away. I didn't realize it was going to leave behind this periodic heating every 20 minutes to keep the tank at temperature (kinda obvious now that I think about it).
Thanks. No switched 12v is available, just the switched output (120v) that turns on the circ pump via the timer. I just want to make sure the SSR can handle 120v@15amps of the heater (which it looks like it does). Found it on Amazon for $20: https://www.amazon.com/Enclosed-Power-Relay-120VAC-SPST-NO/dp/B000LEST4E/
Just one timer is enough for both. The circ pump uses very little energy, so turning both on at the same time won't really slow down the heating of the 10 gallon tank (it's small) plus whatever is in the pipes.