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Creep on or off and why

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Creep on. Having tried both ways I find it much easier to stop 26 inches away from the wall when going nose first into my garage with creep on. 26 inches is the optimal distance that allows ample room for walking around the front of the car to the house door while leaving enough room for the garage door to close behind the car. With creep off it's tough for me to feather the brake and always get the optimal distance on the first try.
 
All the "muscle memory" posts... turning off creep fully defeats muscle memory. When you're trained on an ICE car you develop the muscle memory of "lifting my foot off the brake means the car will move." That's simply not the case in an un-creeped Tesla, so you are forced to take action to make the car move. There's no mistaking of pedals (beyond traditional human incompetence), since there is very little coasting — our internal sense if motion can tell immediately if the car is accelerating or decelerating. Since your foot is almost certainly on the accelerator to control 99% of the car's motion, the brake pedal is only necessary for rapid deceleration and conclusive stopping.

It takes some reprogramming to make the switch, just as jumping from a Mercedes to a Honda will require you to reprogram your muscle memory for changing the radio station.

Anecdotal self-evidence: Drove my Model S nearly every day for seven months. Then I had to drive an ICE van for a day for work — I was able to transition pretty easily back into "foot off the brake = vehicle moves", but I had a hard time all day with the van's lack of hill brake hold. I kept pressing into the brake pedal and then releasing and then the f**king van would move forward even though I hadn't touched the gas pedal.

Creep is 100% a function of how internal combustion engines with automatic transmissions work. It's in no way a "safety" feature.
 
What I find bizarre is you can't set it exactly like you want it.

Like I'd like creep off, but at the same time I'd like it not to roll backwards without bothering to use hill-hold. Ideally it would obey the accelerator like some other EV cars do. I'd also like more adjustability of regen. Basically to the point where I could come to a complete stop exactly where I wanted to just by feathering the accelerator.

I should try to figure out what the rate is of unattended acceleration on EV's like the Bolt where the accelerator can also act as a brake. Although I probably would find anything of value since it's a mode you can turn on, and it's tough to say what percentage of drivers use it.

This is how the BMW i3 works. When in drive, the car will not roll-backwards, but it can roll forwards. When in reverse, the car will not roll forwards, but it can roll backwards. No need for creep or hill-hold in this scenario. I guess you can say that it is "automatic hill hold" but hold is only in the opposite direction of the gear selector.
 
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I need creep on to reverse into my garage. Without creep, I need to switch between the brake and the accelerator - with only a few inches to play with, this is too risky. With creep on, I can just release the brake pedal a little, to edge the car towards the rear wall. Under normal driving conditions, I can live with creep on or off. I have owned several automatic cars, so creep on feels natural to me.
 
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All the "muscle memory" posts... turning off creep fully defeats muscle memory. When you're trained on an ICE car you develop the muscle memory of "lifting my foot off the brake means the car will move." That's simply not the case in an un-creeped Tesla, so you are forced to take action to make the car move. There's no mistaking of pedals (beyond traditional human incompetence), since there is very little coasting — our internal sense if motion can tell immediately if the car is accelerating or decelerating. Since your foot is almost certainly on the accelerator to control 99% of the car's motion, the brake pedal is only necessary for rapid deceleration and conclusive stopping.

The circumstance that has been cited a few times in relation to claimed 'uncommanded acceleration' cases is the one that worries me most.

You have to have your foot on the accelerator to move during the slow phases of a parking manoeuvre, if the front wheels encounter an unexpected obstruction the sudden stop can cause the foot on the pedal to exert more pressure than intended, albeit briefly which given the instant power of the Tesla then results in a much greater reaction from the car than would be the case for an ICE vehicle.

Also there is still the muscle memory around the 'hill hold' and rolling back...

I'm not suggesting that creep on or off it automatically 'better' as long as you are prepared to learn and retrain to suit the one you choose, but I certainly don't accept that 'creep off' fully removes the risks associated with muscle memory and feathering the accelerator vs the brake.
 
I highly recommend at least giving creep off a try. You have the option, after all.
Thanks Derek, I think I will do that.. For me it is not the garage maneuvering or feathering the pedal that is an issue. The issue is, I live in Seattle and about 75% of the terrain has some kind of slope. I am aware of hill hold as i used to use it in my previous car when i drove in downtown Seattle where some of the roads are pretty steep. Anyway, I am going to try creep off the next few days and see if it works out for me.
 
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Let's get over creep as a figment of the past. Could you imagine taking an opportunity that EV's afford with their one-pedal driving, a little further in concept, like this:

Put a pivot point behind the go pedal that is just above heal height... maybe one third up from the bottom of the pedal. Springs will return the pedal to its neutral, somewhat slanted, tilted forward position.

Now, pressing on the top of the pedal, pivots the pedal "forward" and this moves the car forward - speed proportional to pivot degree. Allowing the pedal to return on the pivot to its sprung neutral position (i.e. taking foot off the pedal) the car goes into regen and will come to a complete stop, and car will hold at stop. Normal driving would allow you rest your heal on the floor, and use your toes to press the top of the pedal for go.

Pivoting the pedal "backward" (pressing in with your heal at the bottom) makes the car go in reverse direction - speed proportional to degree of pivot. You'd be allowing your heal to slide a bit using the pivot point of the pedal and your flat foot on the pedal as your muscle reference for dialing in reverse speed.

Regen could have two areas or stages of strength..using only your foot. A standard dose of regen range would be available by relaxing the pedal back toward its neutral slant.. "one-footing" the pedal to dial in just the right amount of regen for the situation. If you want max dose of strong regen then pivot the pedal in the opposite direction you're traveling - dip into your heal while traveling forward. (Think of Fred Flintstone driving his car to slow it down).

The car will not change direction after coming to a stop using maximum reverse thrusters. It just stays stopped. The pedal must first be released to neutral pivot before it goes anywhere again.

Software lets you select the proportion of regen available above and below the pivot point.. say 70% top and 30% reverse pivot. This is instead of the "standard / low" console button - we now have a slider! Low regen is accomplished by setting the proportion to something like 20% top of pivot which mean 80% is still available bottom of pivot. This would be for forward driving. When driving the car in reverse there'd be 100% regen applied for release of pedal. And remember regen slows until you stop, in either direction.. and stays stopped.

A second pedal could be brakes, as usual. Or, since we're retraining muscle memory and thinking about a better world, how about this: ditch the second brake pedal. It's just slows reaction time by having to move your foot anyway.

The pivoting "go" pedal is still on a plunger arm as it is today. BUT here's the big difference -- pressing the plunger applies physical friction brakes. As soon as any plunge is detected the car cuts applied power to the motor (whichever way it's spinning) so now pivot degree means nothing. While plunging the car also goes into regen but the important part -- friction brakes get applied proportional to how normal brakes work with plunger push strength. As soon as plunge is detected regen happens at strength of the slider setpoint, car will scavenge up to that much power so long as it's available not being eaten by friction.

Plunger spring loading is much stronger than pivot spring loading. And the spring loading balance of the pivot and plunger work such that full pivot forces forward at the top of the pedal happens before any plunge. For tactile feedback, there'd be a detent feeling offered by the pedal at maximum pivot so your foot would feel like it has hit maximum and muscle memory would then know any further pressing is going to dip into the plunger -- regen and stopping. Your ankle is for driving and your knee is for stopping.

The only thing that can happen while plunger is being pressed is the car will be coming to a stop in whatever direction traveled. Once stopped, if it stops, it stays stopped until both plunger and pivot are released to neutral slant (think: taking your foot off the pedal completely)... and still stays stopped until pedal pivot tips either way again.

With this you can get rid of the "gear" selector lever. It's just not needed, not even the Park button. Hop in and go.. butt must be in seat.. just pivot the pedal. When you're stopped just hop out and leave, car is not going anywhere. (Unless you have "creep" on because you're from 1994 and want the car to roll away?!)

Deluxe cars would have adjustable physical slant for neutral pivot position, and adjustable resting height of plunger.

I think once you drive a one pedal car like this, it would come quite naturally. The biggest untraining would be getting over the idea of mashing the go pedal to the floor for maximum thrust. But any new kid learning on a one-pedal car would get how it works and never know different. Until she has to drive an old fashioned car with all those sticks and buttons and pedals.... mashing the go pedal with put the car through the wall and she'll say "it was supposed to stop". Whole new case of unintentional acceleration.
 
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My approach was to use creep ON for the first couple months of ownership. I hadn't previously driven a manual transmission or other electric vehicle which would exhibit similar behavior to the Tesla with the creep OFF. To ease the transition to all the new elements of the Tesla that I also wasn't familiar with (acceleration capability, technology availability, etc.), I was happy to choose the things I could learn at once by at least having creep behave similar to past vehicles for the time being.

Now that I am a few months in and comfortable with the car's behaviors, I turned creep OFF and am glad I did. I like the control of it better and am comfortable with how it operates on hills, etc.
 
Creep and chill off for normal driving. As each setting is stored in a profile, I use a "garage" profile with both creep and chill turned on when fine and slow movements are called for.

I have a narrow garage, and before summon was released I used to have to back into the garage while maneuvering close to the passenger side wall in order to open the driver side door far enough to enter and exit the car with enough clearance to do so. With creep on in this case, you're controlling the speed by feathering the brake, and as others have mentioned, it's less prone to screwing up. Watching 2 corners of the car while both clearing the garage threshold and not hitting a wall on the opposite corner of the car is simply easier to do this way.

Hill hold becomes second nature and I use it all the time unless AP is enabled.
 
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Creep off. I have no reason other than I tried it and never went back because I like it. Hill hold works just by just pressing the brake a little more after the car has stopped. So now I do it every time I stop just due to muscle memory.
 
Creep off, and use hillhold when stopped whether hillside or flat.
Took some time and practice, but I have a better feel for my car and how it behaves with no creep, and can maneuver it anywhere just fine. .Just a personal preference......

Same. It's 100% natural for me to (now subconsciously) press that little bit more at each stop to enable "hill hold" (like above, even on flat surfaces).

And like @derekasch said, it's weird that as drivers we have been conditioned that a car should move forward without an accelerator pedal being pushed.

After only a week of driving a Tesla, that totally was reversed in my mind: now I'm annoyed when I have to periodically drive an ICE and the car drifts forward on a flat road with no gas pedal pressure. Seems wrong. Creep mode = "ICE mode".
 
Creep on, especially for parking. I never move my foot off the brake, so no unintended acceleration.

Although I turn creep of when I drove stop-and-go-traffic, and try to never touch the brake. I'd desperately love to be able to switch it on and off without putting the car in park. Why can't I do that? Something to do with reprogramming the motor controller I'll bet.