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Yes, @Matteni and I have worked out a deal. I'm glad the car will go to someone who can appreciate it. :)

Original battery and in very good condition.

Now officially for sale, 9,941 miles, drives great.

Hardtop has never been off, the soft top is still in the original bag, never removed and in the rear trunk. The PEM was either rebuilt or replaced by the local Tesla dealer about 3 years ago.

A few pictures.

Long story behind this Roadster. My buddy and I went in 50/50 back in....2011 I think to buy the car. Few years later he bought my half out. He passed away and left me the car. Life doesn't leave me any resources for it so I know I will sell it. VIN #314, Twilight Blue, I think about 10k...

Seattle shop is replacing the 400 Volt controller. Should be done in a few weeks and I'll put some miles on it to test things out.

Seattle shop has it and luckily along with the recent example I provided, it shutdown on the tech while driving. Logs provided to Tesla for research. Fingers crossed.

I picked up the Roadster from my buddy on Friday to start some diag based on feedback. Within 1/2 mile, it shut down in the middle of an intersection 14:06. It took the typical 3 minutes (Felt like 30 with cars honking and going around you) before it reset. Typical blinking red "P", no P924...

I need to get the Roadster outside and check these items out. I'll report back my findings. I might take you up on borrowing the outlet with wires.

This is happening to the Roadster again. It is becoming annoying to say the least. I need to check the micro switch on the PEM cover. I also want to bring this back to the dealer as it's been a pre-existing and unresolved issue for a long time now. I wasn't driving the Roadster the last few...

Update: The error code did not appear, but the roadster "shut-off" 3 times the other day. Each time it was noted the "P" was blinking red and a rough time of 2-3 minutes would elapse before allowing the vehicle to be restarted. No code thrown this time, no warning, just quit. Once in the...

I thought I would post an update to the 924 error. The dealer believes this might be caused by slight corrosion on the terminals of the safety wire. First time this happened, they cleaned and reset the connections which caused the error to not come back until months later. It does seems to be...

I was hoping someone else out there had experienced this error before. The dealer still has the car with no real answer to the cause of the 924 issue. I'll post back any findings they come back with.

Have a 1.5 and it's had the same 924 fault code which shuts the vehicle down until you can pull over and do a full 'key-out-back-in-restart'. It's good to drive after that. Seattle dealer had the car for quite some time and couldn't find anything wrong with the Roadster. Eventually picked it...

Will do! Next time out on the road will be Monday. I'll pull logs and post. - Dan

If I did this right, there should be a picture of today's charge on a 30amp Blink station. 202 miles of real range. Pretty neat! I know it shouldn't matter, but I'm starting to think the deep cycling of the battery has removed a little bit of the memory charging.

I know what wiztecy is saying about false range readings after charging. There is 1.2 miles to drive from the Blink station back home, it only dropped to 210 miles when I pulled in the garage which is pretty normal (dropping only 2 miles of range). Plugged into the 115VAC that I normally use...

2009 1.5 standard Roadster - For the longest time now, seems like the best range I've seen off the batter after a charge is 196-197 miles in standard mode. The other day I had to drive it and really run the range down to the last 19 miles. I swung by my usual charging spot (Blink station) to...

There isn't much out there on the street that will out accelerate a speadster. Speadsters don't have anything special when it comes to weight/hp. I've had plenty of ICE cars with better weight/hp ratios than a roadster. Why roadster pretty much rule the streets is simple: 100% of torque from...

Firmware updates have made things a little better. You can watch as the amps ramp up and volts drop on weak 120VAC outlets. You'll get a warning and the charging stops if volts fall below 115VAC I believe. I've also seen a lot of variability in 220VAC EV stations. I've plugged into some that...

Bellevue is certainly not Seattle. Hopefully the tour makes it to the correct side of the pond.

I've seen a few Roadsters around the area. Might be kinda fun to pull a group together for coffee and a nice drive from time to time.

Got mine over the weekend and ran out to try it on some local EV stations. Amazing product, wow! Small, light and lockable. Seattle has a ton of the Blink stations, finding a place to charge in a pinch is very easy now.

I think it has to do with miles driven, battery state of charge and likely a thousand more things I don't know about. I have noticed similar behavior after a charge, and inverse behavior after sitting overnight (not plugged in). If the Roadster isn't plugged in overnight, it looses a few miles...

I've been seeing an orange Roadster around Fremont lately. Noticed it yesterday on 45th. I wasn't driving #314 at the time. We have more locals that I realize. It's also very cool being so close to the South Lake Union Tesla dealer.

#314 Twilight Blue, you'll see it around Fremont. :)

I'm on the waiting list and can't wait to get one. Very cool product! - Dan

If it's cool or cold enough, the pump will run to keep the battery pack warm. During the winter months I noticed that quite a few times. The garage would get down into the 30's and the "coolant" would be circulating and warm.

#314 is titled as a 2008, the dealer calls it a 2009 1.5 which was always a little strange to me until I read this thread. Good info!

They are the typical poly-whatever is used in most cars these days. Keep us posted on the repair. I got "rubbed" by a car with what looked to be white paint. The rear bumper had to be pulled off and painted. About $1600 later and it's better than new. That was just for some scratches.

I agree, not that I would ever venture to remove a 1,000lb battery to begin with....each sheet will be close to 100lbs alone continuing to make the battery hard to service unless you really had all the correct equipment. Damaging the casing or sheets would be my largest concern. In pictures...

$100k + cars and the dealer will flush the fluid for just over $100. No brainer, so I went and had it done. Nice piece of mind and well worth the time/money.

Rear brake fluid moisture might be accelerated by the roughly 60/40 split in brake bias? Front brakes typically do the brunt of the work. Even on what would be essentially considered a mid-engine car. Interesting food for thought.

Shocking this thread is still alive. I know this is my…..3rd post, so please don't hang me for having an opinion: From what I have seen, the Tesla Roadster brake system isn't anything different than you would find on 99.9% of other sports cars. It's a pretty standard rotary ABS pump...

Heat cycling is what causes most of the moister to develop and allow contaminants into the brake fluid along with seals, cap, vent etc. As some have mentioned, track use is the most critical because brake fluid has an incredibly high boiling point. Water of course, does not. Little particles...

Brake fluid is hydroscopic and should be changed/flushed each year. I bleed out the fluid on my buddies 1.0 about a month ago. Luckily things were still liquid, but very dark. Make sure to use DOT4 only. The local dealer here only charges a little over $100 to bleed the brakes which isn't...