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Ceramic coating will do nothing to help this situation because they are not designed to react to this substrate. They will act more like a wax and provide minimal short-lived protection.

Once the anodized coating’s sealant is removed, there’s nothing that can be done to permanently restore it. All the fixes people suggest in here are just temporary cover-ups. The only permanent fix is replacement, period. A PPF shop can apply black vinyl (like a chrome delete) to mimic the...

Waxes do not damage ceramic coatings, but they are useless and aren’t recommended on matte-type finishes because they’ll accumulate in the more textured surface. An OptiCoat No Rinse type product is the best choice for washing any matte-type finish, whether it’s ceramic coated or not.

Great! Glad you got it protected. I’m sure you’ll be 100% thrilled with their work.

I’ve never heard a single complaint about the quality of Alset’s work.

Welcome to Oregon! I can help you get the protection you’re looking for. I know what it’s like to have a car that you want protected and looking great for years down the road. New cars aren’t cheap so we might as well maintain them huh!? I’ve specialized in ceramic coating Teslas since their...

I see all the Portland area PPF guy's work regularly in my business, and I recommend Tony at TCTWraps. Fantastic quality of work from a small shop that takes their time to do it right.

Yes thy are the same, people just use different terms to describe the same type of product.

OCNR will freeze at 32F; your ready-to-use anti-freeze will freeze at let’s say -20F (they all vary but it’s printed in their label). So if you dilute it 1:1 with OCNR then your new mixture will freeze at 6F because that’s halfway between 32 and -20. To calculate the freezing point of...

Auto parts stores carry washer fluid anti-freeze. I dilute mine with OCNR down to about 10F because I know my area will never get colder than that.

I think the RPM Tesla mudflaps are the most factory-looking. I also recommend only installing the front ones, the rears aren't needed due to the design on the rear of the Model Ys...

I've used Sameday Scratch & Dent in Beaverton countless times over the decades. Not the cheapest, but they'll guarantee their work and your panel won't look like it was blasted from a shotgun from the inside like so many of the other guys I've seen.

I would start with the RPM mudflaps in the front. You can certainly have PPF applied to the lower portion of your doors also, but the black textured plastic rocker panels don't do well with PPF as others have mentioned.

Lacquer thinner and very light pressure with a MF towel, let the solvent do the work, not brut force. I do this almost daily at my job; removing client's attempts at DIY paint touch-up.

I prefer the RPM flaps, and just installed another set this morning. They look more "factory" than the OEM ones too.

Especially the windshield in the path of the wipers. This is where the glass is most susceptible to HF acid etching.

^^THIS^^ I live in the West Portland area also, and the Kaady Carwash representative is absolutely correct with this statement. People are seeing the downside of touchless carwashes. They have to "make up" for not touching your car by using stronger chemicals which can potentially damage some...

$398 to protect all white interior surfaces. This also includes stain guard on your carpets.

It's made by the same company that made your Opti-guard, and it's what they recommend. I also use it literally daily for interior cleaning over the past decade or so. It's safe.

This is what I was trying to get at when I asked my original question about your experience with Opti-Guard on your white seats and staining... that is when you said, "...it will not prevent blue stains from jeans/denim." what is your definition of a "stain"? You've clarified that with your...

May I ask what methods for cleaning the seat you use to remove the blue dye?

I use Optimum Hyper Polish and the yellow 6.5" Rupes foam pad on about 90% of the black Tesla's I polish in my business. Take it slow with little pressure, and go 4 passes per section and you'll achieve a very good finish. Sounds like you have some experience on this so you can expect really...

I am a certified Opti installer, and yes it will last 5 years. You should still clean them regularly and use common sense when spills happen, and remember that Opti-Guard Leather does not protect against abrasion or punctures, but for stains it is fantastic. But for the absolute best...

From my experience, it looks like they pulled up on the seat to remove it, and it bent the wire framing before the clips released. If the clips are fully engaged, like the ranger said they were, but it's still sticking up then that is almost assuredly what happened, they bent it.

They're meaning the original covering on the seat bottom, the original seat cover. Not an aftermarket seat cover.

Lots of stab-in-the-dark comments in the thread, I'll clarify some things for you; First off, if you've tried your list of cleaners, including a magic eraser, then your stains are almost assuredly permanent. A professional who specializes in re-dying leather will be able to re-dye just the seat...

A few comments: Are you sure you properly diluted your washer fluid? I recommend using Opti-coat No Rinse as your washer fluid in addition to the anti-freeze. It cleans really well and leaves behind a polymer that helps the windshield stay cleaner longer. Plus, it can't leave hard water spots...

Detailing products companies purposefully confuse the marketplace to make it difficult to compare apples to apples. A vast majority of the time it's all marketing gimmicks between products. Here's a quick how-to video I shot to help my clients understand how simple washing their cars should be...

Turn your wheels one full turn to the right in this photo and you'll have professional quality posing skills!

2 comments; make sure the latch isn't already in the closed position (it doesn't look like it in your photo, but I mention it for others). If it is, then you can insert a screwdriver or pick into the gap where the lower trunk "hoop" belongs and apply just a little pressure downward, then have...

For interiors, I recommend mixing Opti-power Clean to 9:1 with water. This is safe to use on ANYTHING inside your Tesla without worrying about damaging anything. However, I keep a bottle of ONR mixed 127:1 in my car at all times, and use it for quick wipe-downs inside. If that doesn't clean a...

It is so difficult to get a good photo of a black car under overcast skies, but you did a great job with this one!

I can also vouch for the WestherTech and 3D MAXpider mats, both are good. The 3D ones are a little more soft so a lot people like that for the comfort.

This video might help you DIY guys installing RPM mudflaps.

Yes I can help you with this; it’s a service I commonly provide my clients. I will do your new car inspection and provide a report of my findings and recommendations. We would have a discussion prior to determine what flaws would be worthy of rejecting the vehicle. (However, it’s always...

I've installed Opti-Guard Leather on many many Tesla white interiors and not one client has been dissatisfied or thought it wasn't worth the cost. However I have several other Telsa clients that thought it was too much or "they watched a few YouTube videos where the guy says it's a waste of...

Removing the seatbelts is the best way to ensure that they're not only clean, but thoroughly rinsed of any residue. If you feel confident in that procedure then certainly you could do it yourself.

I use Opti-coat Fabric Clean & Protect because it is light enough to not wick while drying, and it leaves polymers behind to help prevent future soiling.

It was $150 per month the last time I checked. Contact one of the admins. I'm sure there's a link here somewhere.

Anything. This doesn't mean it's super strong and effective against cleaning severe deposits like brake dust, grease, etc., but it's safe and will not hurt any surface on your vehicle.

Agreed, ONR is perfectly safe for cleaning ANYTHING on your car, inside and out. For deep clean you'll need something a little stronger, like Optimum's Power Clean diluted 10:1

FYI unless you're a paying vendor, they're going to delete this thread and very likely ban you.

+1 on the mudflaps

I absolutely concur with this.

Well keep in mind that only the problem cars are being posted here, which is a very small percentage of the total manufactured number of cars. Most Tesla owners are completely satisfied with the quality of their paint.

The correction is as we've stated, repainting the affected panels. Sanding or compounding out these defects will do exactly as you've stated, reduce the thickness of your clearcoat to an intolerable low level which will significantly shorten the lifespan of the paint due to decreased UV...

That area is painted metal. To the OP: since you were able to easily flake it off with your finger... when it comes time to confront the Tesla inspector, just continue flaking that area with your fingernail to show how easily it comes off. This is not due to being in a "high impact area", it...

Yep, I've seen that many times. I agreed with your line of thinking also... that this requires repaint to fix properly. But that can open another can of worms especially with the quality and longevity of the repaint job. It is imperative that you find the highest qualified paint shop. (Tesla...

Wash as normal. Speedy Prep gray clay towel using Ferrex as a lubricant. Rupes 21mm Bigfoot polisher on speed 4 Uro-Tec Maroon foam pads Optimum's Hyper Polish. They also make an "Intensive Polish" but I'd like to see a few practice runs with regular Hyper Polish before I recommend anything...