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Oh, wait …

I bought it about a year ago at Autozone. I believe they had it in stock then

As a matter of fact, I did. #796 is filling the roadster-shaped hole in my garage :) Re radio options, I found a single DIN car play unit that I’m planning on installing when I get round to it - so probably next year …

I doubt the service center would install a 3rd part product, but it can’t hurt to ask. I didn’t find it too difficult, but it’s important to get the service manual from Tesla (it’s free on their website now) to understand the dash disassembly.

Yes, the screen has up/down buttons on the left side, but no rotating knob. I was quite close to installing a solution when my roadster was wrecked in an accident so I never finished the project. I did the install myself, it took me a full weekend, including installing a backup camera and...

Mine cleared customs after 2-3 days and were delivered the next day (to my home in LA).

I’m in the same boat. I have a Model 3P and the Roadster, and currently they share one HPWC (The new Tesla wall charger for model S and up). I use Henry Sharp’s CAN SR adapter to charge the Roadster from the wall charger. I alternate which I plug in so that I keep them both close to fully...

Congratulations on your purchase - looking forward to seeing pictures! I installed a Pioneer unit (7600 NEX) with a floating 9” screen. It can be adjusted so it doesn’t block any of the vents or controls in a 2008 Roadster. I think I had to do some splicing of the harness, but nothing crazy...

Good luck. On mine it was also affecting only 1 of the buttons - I think it was because of the angle of where on the key fob housing you press on it

Slightly off topic, but if you want the floating screen in a 1.5 I recommend the Pioneer NEX 7800 - the screen can be mounted lower so it doesn’t block the center vents.

A very long shot, but it sounds similar to what I experienced with mine a while back. I took it apart and found (1) lint/dust under the buttons and (2) that the battery would lose contact when the key housing warps slightly under pressure. For the latter part I fixed it by ever so slightly...

The road runner always gets away if I remember correctly, no? (it’s been a while ….) But seriously, glad to hear you were able to get it fixed! I once had to wait 3 months to get a replacement hood - no fun.

I'd agree with @slcasner - sounds like a switch pack fault. The switch pack sits behind the instrument cluster. For access you need to remove pretty much all the dash panels (side waterfalls, airbag cover (which requires new pins to reattach), center vent cover, instrument cluster hood...

Thank you Carl - I’ll definitely check with them. Would be great if we can get it to you before the battery goes flat. Also happy to talk on the phone and give you more detail on the damages. Sending a DM

Thank you for the pointer - I just ordered it from FastTech!

Yeah - I thought it was quite strange that they didn’t respond when someone asked them for the state of the battery point blank in the comments. It was sort of evasive “when it was new it was rated at xxx”

In the current environment that seemed low for a nice R80 (there’s an accident on car fax, but apparently it’s documented with the repair bill to have been cosmetic) So i did a bit of math, trying to make sense of it. The listing doesn’t show CAC our estimated range. It states the upgrade was...

Yep - that was me. On my way back from the Torrance SC to PV

Thank you all for your kind words. The loss hurts for sure, especially on such a unique and beautiful example. Indeed a testament to Tesla safety that both myself and the driver of the Model S got away unharmed. On the bright side we do have a lead on a successor - my wife and I agreed that...

#303 died last week :-( :-( On my way back from the annual service at Tesla, a driver ran a red light and T-boned me hard, pushing me into a another car in the left lane (a Model S Plaid, and hard enough to roll it over). All drivers (myself included) walked away, fortunately, but #303 wasn’t...

All the time - but no luck so far

🙃 I can confirm that the radiant red gets more attention than the Thunder Grey but apparently less than the Aubergine :) so the Aubergine is a wrap? It looks great!

My first roast was a Thunder Gray (which I quickly felt looked too boring for its character) and have a Radiant Red now which looks beautiful but still a bit understated. I keep thinking if I’d want a “louder” color (very orange?). Do owners feel they are more of a “cop magnet”? I haven’t...

I remember having a very loud clunk on my 2.5 but it’s much less pronounced on my 1.5. I wonder if others have experienced the same?

We got ours yesterday and they look great. Thank you so much for doing this!!

I recently had my dash apart and swapped in a single slot unit from pioneer with a large 8” screen. I’d say anyone with decent interior trim expertise should be able to do it (and route the cables while they are at it) Two watch outs: (1) the passenger airbag cover requires single use clips...

Thank you - that’s what happened for me as well. It seems indeed moisture related.

Sorry for reviving an old thread. My 1.5 just started producing error 19s (isolation warning). This happened after I had my roadster parked outside for several weeks (I know .... :-( ) any suggestions where I start Troubleshooting? Is it safe to take the car for a drive in hopes of drying out...

I'll take 2 as well

I'd be in for a group buy as well

I'm 6'5" and 250 lbs and drive my Roadster daily, around 50-100 miles per day (well, before the pandemic and working from home I did). Getting in and out takes some skill and flexibility, but once seated I'm fine. A couple of observations from my 3 years of Roadster experience: The 1.5 is...

Thank you for the correction! I looked at it pretty hard and in the end figured it would collide by more than that. Great to hear it worked out for you. How do you like the the screen? Btw - as you can see in my photo, the 7800 doesn’t block the AC vents either. I do like the iPad like screen...

I installed the Pioneer DMH-WT7800 NEX recently. It’s similar to the Alpine Halo unit but has wireless car play, higher resolution, and I personally prefer the cleaner look. Only downside is the lack of a physical volume control. I’m working on adding a knob underneath - stay tuned. I believe...

Got it - that would make sense. Still seems one of the lower CACs around - it appears there are a number of us (myself included) who are still in the 140s. I seem to remember that cars like this went in the 30s two years ago.

I'm surprised by the facts about the battery. They state the battery was "replaced by Tesla in May 2019", but that CAC is only 113Ah. Either that's a lot of degradation in 18 months or Tesla installed a bad battery? Or could it be heavily out of balance? It also says there is battery...

to clarify - I fully agree and I modified both cables. I was just responding to the question how to handle the “downstream” part of modification. for the roadster-to-OVMS called my strong preference is to depin the car end of the cable (the rectangular connector). It’s relatively simple to...

That should work. What I did was get a new male DA26 connector and shell and replaced the molded end of the OBD2 cable. I can look up the past numbers if needed. That's a bit easier and saves having too many connections.

Your cable connects/ exposes can3 from the extension port (the 26 pin connector) to the OBD2 connector. The issue is, as @gregd points out, that can3 is also connected on the other side, from the 9pin connector on the OVMS to the car. So you will need to disconnect can3 on the car side of the...

@coolVariable I would be interested in one of possibly two of those. I don't have access to a 3D printer, but would love a way to prevent my wallet from flying side to side whenever I make a turn :-)

this shouldn’t be too hard. Once you remove the dash and have the switch pack in front of you it’s easy to locate +12V, turn signal trigger, and GND wires. All the electronics would need to do it is if the trigger is released quickly hold the output high for a few seconds. Otherwise send it...

Yes, indeed it was. And @MLAUTO was spot on - it appears to be gradual leakage. I had to top it off again in May, so it seems I’m losing about 0.8-1.0 quart for 6 months/5k miles. Still no visible leakage (I’ve had the belly pans off to look around but couldn’t see any obvious leak points)...

service.tesla.com There you can find the wiring diagrams (the harness, not the PCBs inside the components), service procedures, pin outs for connectors, specs, etc. You need to create an account and pay for a certain length of subscription (cheapest is 1hr for $30 if I recall correctly). I...

Most of the body is carbon fiber (fenders, doors, hood, trunk lid, ...), the bumpers are regular plastic. Body panels are rather hard to come by - I needed a new hood after a little mishap, and was on the hunt for several months. there are no new parts, so you are looking at Used/salvage pieces...

I'm considering a different (and uglier) work around - I already prepared a relay that is attached to the ext_pwr of the OVMS and hidden away in the bottom of the A pillar. I plan to install this in parallel to a manual cool down switch and thus would be able to trigger it through the OVMS...

Yes, that's correct. However, now that I have done it once I'd say it's not a big deal. Just follow this thread: Dash Removal I could probably disassemble it in 45 mins or so next time around. You remove (in this order) the trim at the bottom of the door openings (velcro), the instrument...

I had a switch pack issue myself for the last six months - hi beams would not work and I would get a “check bulb” error. Tested wiring ask the way back to the switch pack and all was well. I ended up disconnecting the relevant wires (Feeds from fuse box, outputs to the lights, and trigger wire)...

it’s in the lowest position. Also, I had to pull it out to the extended position (towards the back of the car to clear the dash), and it is horizontally centered. I’ll write up the iData link separately. The biggest challenge was to figure out the right car to use for wiring harness and...

My 1.5 doesn’t have any of that. On my 2.5 (1171) there was plenty of goo - I think I read somewhere that the half circle vents on the 2.5 have a lower quality surface coating

Here’s a couple pictures of the Pioneer head unit I used an iDatalink unit to expose car vitals from the OVMS so they can be shown on the head unit in the same way a factory device would

Tex EV definitely takes the cake! FWIW, here's my recent tinkering Added a new head unit (single DIN on the 1.5): Pioneer DMH-WT7600NEX - 9" screen, wireless CarPlay/Android Auto, USB and 3.5mm plugs in the shelf to the right of the steering column (I prefer the cleaner look compared to the...