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Wonder if I should hold my MCU2 Upgrade on TMS, maybe it will be changed to AMD as well….?

Here are some more photos: Carbon Wrap Decor - Teslafied Carbon Wrap Center Console - Teslafied The 3M carbon wrap have a more structural surface and are not as matt as the original OE Carbon Trim. If you do a custom trim you can chose from 100's of wrap's - make the car more personal.

I'm using 2x JL HD400 without issues if that helps you.

UThomas, I wrote the guide for teslarati/teslafied.eu, could you tell me what info you were missing so I can correct the article?

6 cm above middle S.

And as the stupid dane, I totally fell in.... ;)

Klaus, it's a panel that can be mounted in the compartment between the front seats if you don't have the center console. Petero, it does not help bumping your thread up - your price is way too high, especially with those marks in the carbon fiber.

The only placed I have found switched power is under the kickpanels. See here: Part 3: Amplifier Installation | TeslaTap (Pictures a bit from the top)

The foot wells up front are only on when opening the door and goes off when you drive. I have been thinking about trying with the window switch, my only concern is the missing option of turning them off without turning down the backlight on the instrument cluster.

I have been in contact with Tesla a couple of times, and they are not willing to activate the ambient light setting, not even if you buy 4 new door panels.

New price, is not the same as used price - is it? ;) A lot of people now have the center console where a Yatch floor is not needed, meaning that the resale price is very low.

The thing is that you need to purchase new door panels to get the OEM leds, they are built into the panel, not replaceable. Besides that there are no power on the wires until Tesla activated it in the ECU. So it's not as easy as it sounds.

Will offer you 100 USD + shipping.

I tested yesterday and it is controlled by the screen brightness. Could be a solution just to tap in there, if the power is sufficient.

You can easily mod the door panel to make it fit - I did it with a dremel, took 5 min.

The window switch's backlight is that controlled by the lightsensor/headlights, or is it always on? The issue with tapping in on these wires is that you cannot control the led (on/off/dim).

I spoke with my Service Center Engineer today, he says that the ambient light does not go though the door electronics but directly to the ECU. Retrofit is possible but you will have to buy 4 new door panels from Tesla at the price of aprox. 600 USD a pcs.

I chose to replace all the speakers and make custom speaker rings - and yes, MudFud, it's a whole new world of sound just by replacing few parts. If you want you can take a look at my setup on my website Teslafied | Tesla Model S Modifications

Tesla is denying to do anything about my headlights, what do you think should they fix it or?

Mine are in the trunk cubbys. One in each side. I have also built a subwoofer in one of the sides - still don't know if I will have to remove it, because it's blocking the back of the chargeport.

I ended up taking the power from the battery, just like I would have done with an ICE Car. You can see my setup on teslafied.eu

I you want to see my setup have a look at Teslafied | Tesla Model S Modifications But I did just as all of you, using the 2 plugs in each side and connecting a LED strip brought on ebay.

I have been looking a bit into it, and my conclusion is that the cables in the doors are there, but without any power. The thing with ambient lightning is that you properly want to be able to shut it off, and I don't like to install a switch for it. My best advice would be to trail the wires...

I remove the speaker and loom between door and car and pulled cable all the way. Then you have the cable inside the door.

I have put a aiv speaker cable into the door using the rubber loom - so there is room.

There is a free grommet near the cabine filter on the right. else you can use the big grommet on the top right/center there is 2 orange wires in it but there is free space.

I have the connector in both sides, and both works just fine, but they have different locations on each side.

Yes, and no matter what I do there is no power, it needs some sort of activation I think.

anyone have pictures of taking power from the 12v battery, to power the amp? Where to connect?

What about power for the amp to drive the sub? Did you go directly to 12v battery ? I have a project on my own with 2 amp's that needs power from the 12v battery.

I used these LED's - ordered 2 sets of 4, and got 4 working the other 4's were damaged doing transport. Deluxe 4 x 30cm 15 LED Car Trucks Moto Grill Waterproof Light Strips 4 Colors | eBay For wire i used 0,75 mm2 wire. Soldered it together with the LED's wires and used the below (don't know...

Yes, and there is NO power on it. :crying:

there is cabling for it In the Doors, will put a meter on it when I get time.

As there is no Reus in Denmark, i'm doing the upgrade myself. I have the standard stereo. I'm upgrading all the speakers and adding 2 more speakers in the dash. All being powered by 2 new AMP's located in the trunk. All being done while keeping all original wiring intact.

I have used the extract same plug (in the left side) for my LED strips.

The only ones I can find at tirerack is 1140 usd for a new set. ZR21. Does your 0 shipping cost also cover Denmark?? ;-)

Hi, Does anyone have some guidelines on how-to remove the interior décor? I have Piano Black now, but would like to wrap or paint it in the same color as my car (grey).

I used 70 x 70 x 27 cm for dimensions, might not be totally correct, but properly close.