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I got mine from Aliexpress. It arrived couple days ago. I installed it this morning. It's easier if you remove the T25 torq screw on the wheel well and the 10mm bolt underneath the valance. This way you could drop the bumper without completely removing it and it gives you plenty of space to work...

If you unplug the red and black. That's the power source. The LED won't work at all.

My bad I meant to say F. Kit E has the same subwoofer as Kit A. It was underwhelming for me. I don't know your music taste. Maybe it will be adequate for you. There was another recent post here. He used LOC and it seems like it made the sub perform better.

I have the Version A and I would go with Version E because of the newer sub. The Version A sub is underwhelming. Got rid of it quickly and installed my own sub and amp. DSP is powerful tool if you know how to use it. Version A doesn't have the wiring for a DSP. It's not upgradeable if you wanted...

Most of us here are DIY. We installed the kit or the sub. A few had a shop installed it for them. Not sure what type of music you listen to, if you need the trunk space, sub trunk space. So many choices. Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+) Post #976

I've also did the fader before but set it back to center. I don't need to hear the rear speakers for music (it's a must for watching movies). Tesla did a good job tweaking the sound stage which is like sitting up front in a concert. Sounds coming up front, that's the best sound stage. I've...

This is good stuff. Thanks for posting. It's funny my EQ is kinda similar to yours. Mine is at +1, +0.5, -0.5, -1, -2. I have the Kit A with 10" JL Audio sub. I also did an intensive sound dampening of the entire car. I would love to see the RTA curve on mine. Too bad, I sold my calibrated mic...

That's what I was thinking when I saw this. I wish, I could have seen it couple months ago. It's perfect for @todd2fst4u kit.

I was browsing last night. Look what I've found. US $21.85 |For TESLA MODEL 3 Interior Modification Accessories Audio Activation Upgrade Modification 8 Liters 14 Car Speaker Cable|Cables, Adapters & Sockets| - AliExpress

Only the Y.

I don't have the version F but from the design. A ported subwoofer will perform better. Installing it is fairly simple. Winter last year, I sound deadened/insulate the trunk, rear quarter panel, front and rear wheel well and fender. The floor has a thick foam but I added more butyl. Last week I...

You won't mess it up. Posi-tap is expensive but it's the easiest and no tool needed to use it. You just need a wire stripper or use a knife or the old fashion way, bite-pull-spit out hehe It would puncture a hole and just use electrical tape to cover it up.

Posi-tap is very easy to use. I use T-tap because it's cheaper. Too bad Tesla keeps removing hardware on the car but then again, the 2021 (re-fresh) has a few added like wireless charger and powered trunk, new headlight and heat pump and double pane front windows.

Try using a metal pick. I have a set with different shapes. It's what I use disconnecting different Connectors. Specially on those hard to reach area. The 90° angled pick is my go to and what I use the most.

You can only hear the rear shelf speaker if you're sitting at the back. Driver and front passenger wouldn't hear it. When I sat in the back. I could hear it right away when I installed the kit. It is now more pleasant to sit at the back. You can also hear the highs sitting at the back coming...

On the Version Kit. Anyone know where Hansshow got the signal for the remote wire for the sub amp? I'm not currently using it in my set up. I'm using the GTO on the LOC2i. I'm curious as I might use it in the future. Probably from the ICE 12V?

I was using Match 7 on my BMW. It's plug and play and highly recommend it. The Helix is good and easy to use and many tutorial in YouTube if you want to go that route. It was my first time using DSP and good thing the BMW community had many custom profile they already made. I just downloaded a...

Yes, I recommend it. I also tried the app when it was mentioned here. I got inconsistent result. Swapping wires on the DSP is the easiest and fastest way. I would do that if I have a DSP.

It is factory speakers but you did unplug the factory wire harness and now using the hansshow wire harness. Which polarity tester did you use? I tried the app on Android and didn't get consistent result. It was bang on with the polarity tester that I got from Amazon.

I did reversed polarity on the wire harness, on passenger side. Got lazy and did it on the tweeter on the driver side. Switching it back is easy if ever have to. I wrapped it in Tesa Tape and it doesn't even look like I touched it.

Thanks for taking your time reporting back and I'm glad it fixes your issue. It sounds like you were really stoked getting the bass back hehe. I feel ya! Bass is life! It's the only frequency we feel. Without it, the sound is dead.

My kit was made late Nov and received it early December. It's not the DIY but ver. A. The door tweeters had reversed polarity and also the Passenger Rear shelf speaker. That's 3 speakers out of phase/reversed polarity. Their kit is inconsistent. Some received a perfect kit with no polarity or...

Not a sub expert also but the Hansshow 8" sub isn't a good quality and it needs an enclosure to make up for it. Also using A/B amp isn't efficient. The amp is outputting just a shy over 100 watts in real life. A good quality sub and enclosure, even a 300 watts will kick hard. I was in 2012...

Hi, yes. The two pin connector by the footwell are for the door tweeter. I don't know which wire is for the A-pillar.

No, my Ver. A didn't have any crossover box. I was wondering why it didn't have. I had the impression that any of the kit will have the same DIY wire harness. I don't know why the woofer started working again. The door tweeters were really pronounced and overpowering the dash speakers when it...

Yes, it's way easier pulling the tweeter out and swapping the wires there. It's faster than removing the panels and bending over looking for wires in awkward position. Meanwhile while the tweeters were off, might as well add a hot glue to secure it. It should eliminate any future rattle...

Hi, to answer you questions. The door woofer was still working but underpowered. It was weak and could barely hear or feel it. Now, it's working as it should. The passenger tweeter. I did it on the foot panel. It's the first picture (20201217_120241.jpg). It's the two wires. Basically just cut...

If there's a reduction in bass, the wire are reversed. I just fixed mine just posted it couple minutes ago. Hansshow kit are inconsistent. Some didn't see reduction in bass but left and channel are reversed. My Ver. A had reduction of the door woofer performance, which I just sorted out.

UPDATE: Good News! A little backstory. I realized after connecting the harness (ver. A) that the door tweeter and rear-passenger right shelf speaker were noticeably louder. I knew and had a hunch that there was something off. I ordered a $13 polarity tester at Amazon. I tested all speakers...

I think either brand will be fine for activating the 6 speakers. I still would go with Hansshow DIY because it's cheaper. Adding a subwoofer you only need tap to the door woofer for signal. At page 49, #976 @fritzner have a good write up. Buy an amp wiring kit that is recommended by the your amp...

So, 7 days ago I installed the Ver. A. I wasn't happy with the performance of the the sub. I have a 10" JL Audio 10W3 on a custom fiberglass enclosure on my previous car. I was looking for enclosure the would fit the sub-trunk. I couldn't find one that would fit, it's either the enclosures is a...

I have Bass and Mid-Bass at 5 or 6. It's hard to tell if the bass is from the woofer or from the sub. I have a version A. I wanted more kick from the bass. I'm gonna remove the Hansshow sub and mount the amp and LOC there and the 10" sub in the sub trunk cargo for a cleaner look. I was planning...

For me it's not worth it. I like more mid-bass sound. You will lose the punchiness of the door woofer. It's just personal preference. Maybe you like more bright and better sound staging. The harness will give you that. I don't recommend just the DIY harness alone. Atleast get the Ver. A so you...

I tried 50% volume and it's too loud for my taste. It hurts my ears and gets exhausting after just a minute of hearing. I get tiny more bass setting the fader a little bit to the rear. If you line it up to the headrest rather than front of it. I didn't want to spend more but I already have the...

Yes, the system is tweak that way which is how professional set up a sound system competition car. The sound coming from the dash like you're in a concert that's why you can barely hear the rear speakers activated or not (rear shelf). I just ordered the wiring kit last night. I'm adding a real...

I did expect it not to hit deep bass. I just wanting for more lol. I already knew from the size of sub. It's puny compared to the other sub I have installed in my previous cars. I'll wait till someone make an enclosure similar to the NVX Sub. I already have a JL Audio 10W3 and Rockford fosgate...

Which version of the sub did you get? I have the round 8". I checked all searing positions. The rear seat, you can feel the bump but when sitting in driver in passenger. It feels more like a woofer.

I was in the garage for a good 30 minutes listening. The sub is really underwhelming. It sounds more like a woofer than a sub. It has more punch with one of the rear seat folded. I folded the right rear side. I will roll like that for now and maybe add another sub down the road.

Last Winter I did sound deadening. I used butyl and closed-cell foam. I went crazy in the rear wheel liner, rear quarter panel area (where the sub is located). The road noise is cut in half (with my hearing perception). I also did the front wheel liner and fender. I also added some in the floor...

Cool, thanks! You don't really have to but it would be good to know for future reference. I also had my EQ Bass set to 5.5. It's not good to boost more the 3 values but I don't listen pass 50% volume.

Maybe get their wire harness and get this sub instead. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KTRD24V/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A2V3063JU9685N&psc=1

Thanks! Good to know. Which connector is it? I've tweaked the sub. Max Gain and 30-35% boost gain. I'm really happy with the outcome. I don't really miss the door woofers punch. I like the overall all sound stage and imaging from the activated speakers. I replaced the two outer dash speaker with...

Update on Version A. I ordered it Nov. 2 and received it on Dec. 4. I installed it earlier today. Installation is pretty straight forward. I spent over an hour listening after the install. The wire harness alone works out of the box. When I played with the fader, all the channels are set...

Thanks for the update. I also ordered Ver. A on 11/02 and received it yesterday 12/04. I got a tracking when I contacted Cici but never received an email. I'm glad you are happy with the A-kit. I had DSP+Amp on my previous car which is an upgrade from regular amp. DSP is nice if you're into...

I also ordered Ver. A last Nov. 2. I still haven't heard anything. I whatsapp Cici inquiring my order. I'm just getting caught up reading the thread. It seems like we have more people having problems and it's making me anxious.

It's 19969

Sounds like the premium audio need more power. I've seen others added additional amp and subwoofer to give extra boost to the Premium Audio. If you listen to high volume. You definitely will see great improvements with additional amp and sub+amp.

Nice! I ordered Ver. A on Nov. 2 still no tracking number :(

Hi, I ordered Ver. A couple days ago. Would I be getting the 8*8 sub?

I was going to get Ver. E. I don't really listen to high volume. Usually in the 40% volume and from the others who already installed the DIY Harness. They said the volume is fine even at 100% without distortion. The Sub has built-in amp. Get the kit with additional amp if you really crank up the...