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As soon as the car returned from service, the key fob that DIDN'T go to service now is no longer paired with the car. The other fob still works fine. I've tried to update the unpaired fob and the car still sees it as it says the unpaired key is up to date. The working fob was nowhere near the...

Different cell, pack, and location of production.

Bump. I have a mid ‘17 100D that was a demo car. It’s had the grinding/vibration under hard acceleration from day 1 which is why I thought it was normal for D models. It’s slowly gotten worse so I decided to come here and now see I’m not alone. My ‘13 S85 had rear half shafts go out twice. Now...

To the OP, I'd suggest doing a full cycle or two on the battery to see what it does. I've heard of some saying the battery can sometimes "learn" a certain battery level and/or it's just unaware of how much is truly available. Charge to 100, then down to 10 or so and back. Report back with new...

Thanks. I “lubed” the trim-lok tube with clear silicone and it works well...until I was it. I’ll be getting the 3M tape I think.

What’s this “new seal” you speak of and what does it look like?

Interesting. Do you put that down in the gap or over the top of the trim-lok?

It’s where the several feet of crush barrier was before it was destroyed in a previous accident a couple weeks prior and removed.

Overall, I agree with what you’re saying, I just disagree that the AF447 wreck was caused by AP complacency. IMO, it was poor upset/stall recovery training. They were actively trying to recover the aircraft after a system failure. The Model X driver did nothing, so my example of CFIT while on AP...

While true that there’s a greater emphasis on increased hand flying, your Air France example is innacurate. The Air France pilots had a systems failure giving erroneous indications(iced over pitot tubes leading to an unreliable airspeed). They were attempting to correct an aircraft state that...

Yeah, I’ve already put that in. This car is $110k...come on. I bet a Kia has a trim piece. That’s all it needs. Why am I shopping amazon for that and using clear caulk to keep it from coming out.

I just had my ‘17 S100D in for the “pa-dunk” noise over speed bumps. They first said they narrowed it down to the sway bar but after replacement felt that it was the struts. They replaced those also and the noise is still present.

Wait, which vehicles had the software limited 60kWh pack? I swear for a period the “60” was a software limited 75 pack. Edit: I believe you guys are emphasizing the 2013 part.

Controls icon at bottom left of screen > Settings > Vehicle. There you will find Smart Preconditioning. Also, remember Cabin Overheat Protection running during the summer.

It’s your Smart Preconditioning. Turn it off in settings. I believe this feature only operates when plugged in. It’s remembering your habits and adjusting the climate to your setting when you normal use the car.

So...over a year later and still no solution other than “replace the windshield”?? I’ve used the Trim-Lok tubing and while it was very effective, it likes to come out. This car is over six figures. I don’t think I need to say any more.

Sold my ‘13 S85 with 56,000 miles just prior to 5 year mark. Only had a window regulator fail out of warranty.

As stated, some items were decoded whereas others weren't and some that were weren't factual, such as AP1. I didn't know if there's some other source that further breaks this down. Earlier threads stated battery and motor codes and it seems mine didn't pull either up.

So the decoder gives me this for my VIN 200XXX S100D: Can anyone tell me how to decode the decoder for what I have and if uncorking is listed? Some items were decoded but inaccurate. It said I have AP1 although I have AP2. APPA CH04 DRLH FG02 MI01 PI01 COL2-PPSB RFFG TP03 WTAS

Exactly. It’s nowhere to be found.

I don’t see the article but I can say that 400kW would have no relevance to the 40kWh Model S 40(which did exist at one point, kinda). You’re talking motor output vs. battery capacity.

I know Tesla got in hot water listing horsepower numbers for the motors instead of what the batteries are capable of delivering. However, I can’t find corrected numbers for any of the vehicles. Does anyone have that or have a guesstimated calculation? I’m most curious about my uncorked 100D but...

I just picked up a 100D with the all glass roof. Judging by VIN it’s a July-ish build. The wind noise is pretty awful. I, too, put tape over the seam to confirm the source and that took care of it. Looking at the pic earlier in this thread it’s hard to tell if my seam is any different. I’ve...

Call Tesla and ask them to poke it. This is assuming you’re not in a cellular dead zone. My old ‘13 S85 with 3G had an issue with connecting a couple times. Signal was good. App wouldn’t connect but Tesla was able to see the car and poke it.

Noted. My apologies.

There’s a website that has user data plotted. I apologize as I can’t recall the site but I think a search of this forum should pull it up. Edit: see this thread for graphic Battery degradation. Also, the 70% guarantee is only expressed for the Model 3 according to an article I just read. Model S...

And this was a necessary why? Someone posted their 5 year ownership experience with a Model S, in the Model S forum, and you felt slighted and had to interject. Your roadster and its battery module architecture and chemistry(he!!, the entire car) has nearly zero relevance to a Model S other than...

This was posted in the Model S section.

I’ll add my, albeit condensed, almost 5 year data. She was traded off last week for a 100D. VIN 44XX Miles 56,000 Battery 262 new/242 current Failed components: window motor, one door handle, 12V small battery(all warranty/good will) Noises that led to replacement: motor drone/milling(twice)...

I wasn’t even able to get inside. However, a few months ago when it happened the first time, I was already inside but unable to start via the app. I don’t believe internet or streaming was working. The car was acting like it had no signal even though it showed full bars. Tesla could not see nor...

Last night was the 2nd(and 3rd) time I was unable to access my car via the phone app. As it goes, this only happens when you leave your key behind and use the phone for all functions. Each time, my ATT phone had full signal as did the car. However, the two couldn’t talk to each other. The...

2013 S85

FYI Playalinda Beach is not closed. Matter of fact, they’re staying open to cover the launch window.

Alright, I’m headed towards KSC today for the launch. Any tips on where to best view it? I understand Playalinda Beach is off-limits as it’s too close. Any suggestions are appreciated. I’m not entirely interested in going to the visitor center to ride the bus out.

Check your cabin overheat selection in settings. Depending on where you live, this can have a huge impact on losses while parked. After shutting mine off, I only lose ~2 miles in 24 hours, Arizona.

It was 100,000 mi for the 60. 85 is unlimited miles.

I had this exact same noise/issue as OP. '13 S85 VIN 44XX. First occurred around the same mileage as well. Initially they lubed the shaft and all was well for 3 months. Noise came back and service pulled the entire shaft, cleaned and lubed, and all was well again...for a few months. 3rd time...

For those interested, the cable for the regulator got bound up inside the motor and messed things up. $220 for a new regulator, $85 labor for Tesla to put it in. Not bad at all and totally worth it. It's not a very fun space to try to work in so it was well worth $85 to have someone else do it.

Well it was incredibly easy to take the panel off. However, window motor seems to be messed up. Now when the door closes and the window would go up a touch for a solid seal, the window now goes down and inch and then is no longer operational. The motor runs(like it's grinding something) but the...

Thanks, YouTube:

So my driver's window went down and won't come back up. Lucky me, I just went out of warranty. Anyone that has the know-how to do this, please let me know. I'm sure it's not that difficult, I just don't want to break anything.

Anyone else unable to connect to the car with the mobile app after the update?

In my profession, we regularly discuss wrecks for the sake of learning from them. I didn't post to sensationalize it. I was more interested in learning when AP was introduced and when the old blue was discontinued. The media seems to always imply AP is at fault and I felt that there was a good...

Tesla driver dies in a Model S after hitting a tree. Tesla driver dies in a Model S after hitting a tree, battery caught fire, Tesla launches an investigation First, RIP to the driver. Hitting a tree at high speed usually isn't survivable, no matter the car. Some observations....they seem to...

I'd like to know when the new 20700 cell format arrives and what the theoretical maximum range will be for that. If the 18650 is near its peak, the only logical step is switch to the 20700 or introduce new chemistry.

Image by Raven posted Aug 26, 2016 at 5:44 PM Look at my outlet and tell me you want to see this. Spend the extra money. According to Tesla, Hubbel and Cooper outlets are commercial grade and made to withstand the extra heat and repeated use. My melting issue was from a loose contact, but...

No real rhythm to it. I do wonder if it might be air suspension related since it usually happens when the right turn is over a bump or incline. Sometimes is sounds similar to when the AC compressor has shut down and is spinning to a stop. It's hard to explain and has been impossible to record...

So we took our 2013 S85 in for a metallic ratcheting noise from the rear(excessive rust on axle splines was the verdict) and also a mysterious noise from the front right of the car. The latter noise only occurs after righthand turns, often after turning up a slight incline. It sounds more like...

If you check out my pics you will see it fully melted the one terminal and also the adapter. As I said, I replaced both the outlet and the adapter, but with a Leviton outlet rated to 75C. Cord was not damaged at the adapter.

This was Tesla's advice also. The Hubble and Cooper outlet are commercial grade and are better able to handle heat and constant use. I was told this after I had already bought and installed a new Leviton outlet. I'll be getting a better outlet.