Roger Reid

I ran my new 2010 Roadster S yesterday in my first ever autocross. I know, no pics it didn't happen. I will post video when I edit the footage.

Although I didn't do very well (66 seconds) as I kept getting lost in the cones, My son (Blair) who races regularly also raced the Tesla and did 58 seconds. The fast time for the track was 51 seconds by a special built 800 lb race car (big go kart, huge wings) with a turbo'ed snowmobile engine. The fast Cobra replicars and Vettes were doing 52 seconds.

I had two other problems besides getting lost. The brakes need work. The brakes started getting better as they started braking in but still not up to the task. I will be looking for some better pads. The second problem was the car died twice. Both times it happened I just lost power. No regenerative braking, just coasting to a stop. Both times I toggled the key off and on a couple of times and got it running again. Both times it quit when I snapped the throttle to full very quickly. Traction control was off. The car didn't quit on my son Blair. I suspect he is smoother on the throttle and fed the power on more gradually. In my last run I concentrated on feeding the power less abruptly and had no troubles.

Anyone, ideas on the power failure's? Any suggestions on brake pads?

TEG

Did you check the VDS for warning messages when you lost power?

Tesla can probably remote download the details from your car.
Make note of the date & time it happened so you can tell them.

doug

Some photos here: AutoX Oct 17, 2009 - a set on Flickr





by gregory_gdp

Lancelac

No doubt that the brakes are the weakest component of the car. I was very disappointed that the Sport package didn't upgrade the brakes. I'm interested in upgrading as well, and will let you know if I get any info.

Roger Reid

My son Blair (correction, I am driving) is driving in the above photos. I am passenger at this time. We switched off with 2 different numbers.

The car was the attention getter at the race. Everyone was amazed at the speed and the quiet.

I have a set of Hawk HT pads coming in from Sector 111. I will let you know how they work.

I believe I made a mistake by fully charging in performance mode then trailoring to the race. I lost regenerative braking until there was room in the battery to allow regeneration and hence braking force.

Roger

vfx

I was generously offered a set of the Hawk pads. I opted for the micro mirror (I like it) so I will be interested in your report on the Hawk pads.

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The world loves to be deceived.

QuoteWarz

Sure looks like a lot of fun. Once you get the bugs worked out it should be even more fun as you won't have any issues.

Roger Reid

I upgraded to the H10 Hawk pads purchased from Sector 111. Much better feel, response, and power. Thay make no more noise than the stockers. I found a nice downhill, shifted into nutral (at about 40 mph) and tried the brakes without regen braking. They worked great.

To remove the pads, jack the wheel up by putting a jack under the lift point on the side of the car. Remove the wheel. Remove the little clips on the inside of the pins. Push down on the back of the (caliper) leaf spring above the brake pad at the rear pin and remove the rear pin. Remove the leaf spring and front pin. Slide the pads out. Reassemble in reverse order. First time installation had me remove the calipers in the front because the oem pads were rubber cemented to the caliper pistons and wouldn't slide out. So I had to remove the caliper bolts. Then remove the oem brake pads by prying sideways with a screwdriver. The glue used is like a rubber cement and comes off easy. Use blue locktite when reinstalling the caliper bolts. After the origional pad removal the fronts can be changed without caliper removal.

The rear calipers were not glued to the caliper pistons but still required removal of the top (only) retaining bolt. First the single retaining pin had to be removed. Use a small pin punch from the inside. There is a wire spring to remove after the pin is removed. Remove the top caliper retaining bolt (remember to use blue locktite on reinstallation). Swing the caliper away from the rotor and remove the pads. Replace the pads and reassemble in reverse order.

Wear gloves and try not to get oil or grease on the pads or rotors. It really was easy.

Well worth it.

Roger