Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Chargeport Micro Switch problem

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Does anyone know how one would adjust the microswitch on the charge port door?

As luck would have it a week after the Ranger visit when I unplugged the car and it would not start as it said the charge port door was open. It was not and if I pressed it the warning would go off. I tried to access it by removing the 4 bolts on the panel right behind the rear window but it would not come out. I then tried to access through the drivers rear wheel well and while I could reach the switch that is all I could do. I finally solved the problem, for now, by adding some Duct tape to the lower rear of the charge port hinge. But that is not a good long term solution. With the nearest dealer 400 miles away taking it to Tesla is a royal pain. So I am open to any suggestions.

I assume the easiest access would be to remove the panel between the trunk and the rear window. But it seems to be attached near the rear window and I saw no good way to remove it.

Thank you
 
Our charge port door micro switch got some water inside it which caused all sorts of problems with the car. Rangers came to fix it and I think it took at least a couple hours for one of them to remove the assembly from the car so that it could be repaired. They did have to remove the panel behind the rear window but I didn't see the details.
 
I recently had the same issue as the OP with the charge port switch not connecting anymore and decided to fix it myself. In order to get to the switch, I followed the procedure in the service manual called "Light Ring Assembly - Charge Port". It is rather involved, but mostly straightforward. The trickiest parts of the procedure are:
1) Hard-to-reach screws and nuts. I was only able to access one of the nuts securing the hinge bracket with my torque wrench and had to tighten the other by hand when reassembling. 2) Getting the trunk lid aligned again. The service manual says that fitted position of trunk hinges to trunk lid should be marked before disassembly. However, there is also quite some margin for placement of the hinge on its bracket, so I think that should be marked also. In my case the trunk lid couldn't be closed on first try after I had put everything together. I took the panel behind the rear window off again and adjusted the hinge mounting. In retrospect, it is probably wise to put this panel back last.

Once the light ring assembly is off, the door switch assembly (with the door) can be removed. It is secured by two nuts (8mm). I could not find anything to adjust on the assembly so I gave that up. It turned out that the switch worked, but appeared to be actuated just outside the threshold for toggling when mounted in the car. An indication is that I could toggle it by pushing on the lid. Assuming the switch was somehow worn, I replaced it. Unfortunately the problem remained. I therefore ended up simply bending the lever of the switch. That worked.

P.S.: The door switch assembly (Tesla part no. 6000036) is no longer available according to Tesla. The microswitch itself is an Omron device. I used Omron part no. D2HWC233MRBYOMR as a replacement. Visually and electromechanically the original and the replacement are indistinguishable to me. They may be the same, except that the switch I bought needs to have a connector mounted to the leads. I think TE Connectivity Mini Multilock, part no. 917319 or 2822344 for the housing and 917309 for the tab contact would be the right choices. These appear sold out everywhere, so I bought these Harley Throttle By Wire Amp/Tyco 7 wire Green Mini Multi-lock Female Connector | eBay which are probably the same.
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: DeedWest