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Thread: Charging from 14-50 at 50A?

  1. #11
    TEG,

    Worn sockets are a good thing to keep in mind. Hmmm sitting and watching it the whole time, I don't think I'll sign up for that. I'll probably check what the unloaded voltage is at the receptacle, check it again under load to verify that I'm not seeing undo losses under load (from poor wiring or from worn contacts), and maybe I'll check the receptacle for a temperature rise over the first few minutes. Adding a thermal cutout on an adapter is a very good idea, I'll keep that in mind if I make my own adapter.

    Donauker, what type of setup did you use to push that draw up to 100%?


    Peter
    P-174 VIN P01766

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by bluetinc View Post
    ...Adding a thermal cutout on an adapter is a very good idea, I'll keep that in mind if I make my own adapter...
    See this:
    http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/attac...8&d=1257844780
    ...
    Each Plug Adapter, except the 120V Plug Adapter, also contains a thermal switch that shorts
    this signal out when hot, to indicate a fault. The thermal switch is glued with epoxy to the inside
    of the plastic plug housing.
    ...
    During charging, the Charger monitors the temperature sensor in its Plug Adapter, and
    stops generating a square wave if the Plug Adapter is too hot. (The Plug Adapter and the
    receptacle will overheat if the receptacle is dirty, damaged, or worn out – not entirely
    uncommon for receptacles in public locations.) In this state, the Charger blinks all its
    lights quickly. It will continue to do so until the Plug Adapter cools off and the Charger is
    reset (by unplugging the Charger from the receptacle, and then plugging it in again)...
    ...
    ;******************************************************************************* **
    ;* 40-amp charging loop *
    ;* *
    ;* Test for 40-amp charging and temperature okay. *
    ;* Create 1 KHz Control Pilot (CP) signal if so. *
    ;* High Time: nominally 667 uSec, and between 660 uSec and 795 uSec *
    ;* Frequency: nominally 1000 Hz, between 995 Hz and 1005 Hz *
    ;* 40-amp charging is indicated by a diode from the DIODE line to ground, such *
    ;* that the DIODE line cannot go higher than 0.7V, but can go to -12V. *
    ;* *
    ;* Hot will be indicated by NEG_DIODE becoming 1 while DIODE = 0. *
    ...
    Moderator - Roadster, Future Cars, and Tesla_for_Sale forums

  3. #13
    TEG,

    Thanks for the great document link. It has some great tidbits in there and it has all the info I need to spin a quick design of my own if it turns out I need to, which it seems I may.

    Peter
    P-174 VIN P01766

  4. #14
    Head Moderator / Administrator doug's Avatar
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    I think these days you can get a low cost pilot signal generator.


  5. #15
    I have a DIY UMC that allows me to manually set the current. I tested 48A on a brand new 50A breaker and the breaker got warm but never hot. I also tested 60A on a 60A breaker with the same result but it got a little warmer. In both cases I stayed near the car and the breaker to monitor everything for safety since I was so close to the limits. The 14-50 plugs also warmed up a bit but not like the breaker. In both cases the breakers reached their terminal temperature within about 30-40 minutes so I'm curious how they came up with 3hrs in the NEC. Also Scott451 used to charge his car at 48A most of the time from a NEMA 14-50.

    BTW, what section of the NEC is that in?

    Check out the OpenEVSE project for a circuit that you could easily modify with push-buttons to manually set the charge current.

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by hcsharp View Post
    BTW, what section of the NEC is that in?
    http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/NR/rdonlyres...ing1082004.pdf
    ...Continuous Load –A load where the maximum current is expected to continue for 3 hours or more.( NEC 2002 -Article 100 )...
    Moderator - Roadster, Future Cars, and Tesla_for_Sale forums

  7. #17
    http://www.sea.siemens.com/us/SiteCo...11(lo-res).pdf
    ...The 80 percent reference is derived from the NEC’s required load calculation in Section 210.20(A) which states in part:
    “Where a branch circuit supplies continuous loads or any combination of continuous and non-continuous loads, the rating of the overcurrent device shall not be less than the non-continuous load plus 125 percent of the continuous load...

    ...The 80 percent is simply the inverse of the 125 percent of continuous load requirement and is a common “derating” factor. Sizing circuit breakers based on an 80 percent “derating” assumes that all the connected design loads are continuous...

    ...It is up to the engineer to calculate the design loading of the overcurrent device based on the profile of its load, which is often a combination of continuous and noncontinuous loads. It is also up to the engineer to carefully determine which loads are continuous and account for the 25 percent margin required.
    Continuous load, as defined in NEC article 100, is “a load where the maximum current is expected to continue for 3 hours or more”...
    Moderator - Roadster, Future Cars, and Tesla_for_Sale forums

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluetinc View Post
    TEG,

    Worn sockets are a good thing to keep in mind. Hmmm sitting and watching it the whole time, I don't think I'll sign up for that. I'll probably check what the unloaded voltage is at the receptacle, check it again under load to verify that I'm not seeing undo losses under load (from poor wiring or from worn contacts), and maybe I'll check the receptacle for a temperature rise over the first few minutes. Adding a thermal cutout on an adapter is a very good idea, I'll keep that in mind if I make my own adapter.

    Donauker, what type of setup did you use to push that draw up to 100%?


    Peter
    I definitely agree with TEG that you need to watch for worn sockets!

    I have in the past used a HPC with a 14-50 plug to charge at 48 amps on a 50 amp circuit, this was only done while personally monitoring the charge.

    More recently using my RFMC which is limited to 40 amps in combination with the Tesla Tattler to set the car charge rate to any value up to this limit, I have pushed 30 and 40 amp circuits up to their respective limits. This unit does have thermal fuses in the plug to automatically stop the charge if the plug were to over heat from a worn socket. Although I have run into worn breakers that would not even handle the normal 80% load, I have not yet had a socket that caused an over temp problem.

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