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Thread: Brake Pads

  1. #81
    Senior Member wiztecy's Avatar
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    Doug, did you add the sticky anti-squeal compound to the back of the pad? I did, I don't have any rattle. The pads should be stuck to the caliper / piston like the stocks which would prevent any vibration or rattles.



    Quote Originally Posted by Doug_G View Post
    After running the Carbotech AX6's for a while, they're still working very well.

    One minor nit has cropped up, though. They rattle a bit. They didn't do this at first, so I'm not sure why. Also they tend to rattle simply because the rotor is turning under them - at certain speeds they continuously rattle about 10X a second. Weird.

  2. #82
    Senior Member strider's Avatar
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    Yeah, I used a spray-on product (can look at the brand when I get home) and no problems. I'm still loving the 1521's. Not a sound from them and WAY less dust than stock.
    Twilight Blue Roadster 2.5 - #1098 / Grey Model S Performance - #1459

  3. #83
    Senior Member smorgasbord's Avatar
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    So while I could do this myself, and have done similar things on other cars, right now I'd rather pay a pro.

    I could ask Tesla to change them for me, but their $175/hour labor rate is super-steep. Any suggestions for someone in the SF Bay Area?

  4. #84
    Sig 100 - #52 frequencydip's Avatar
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    Can you explain further? They rattle when no brake pressure is applied or when brakes are applied. I have had no issues like this...

  5. #85
    Roadster 919, S 2006 Doug_G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wiztecy View Post
    Doug, did you add the sticky anti-squeal compound to the back of the pad? I did, I don't have any rattle. The pads should be stuck to the caliper / piston like the stocks which would prevent any vibration or rattles.
    Used the stuff that Tesla uses - copper anti-seize.

    Could you give me a brand name? It would be easy enough to pop the pads out and redo that.

    Thanks!
    Roadster #919, Model S #2006. Blog The Rules of Model S Road Tripping
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  6. #86
    Senior Member wiztecy's Avatar
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    The copper anti-seize is for a different application, such as for the moving parts or anyplace you want things to slide and not freeze.

    The gluey stuff that makes the back of the pads sticky to the caliper and piston is called brake quiet. I used the CRC brand thats listed below:
    Amazon.com: CRC Industries 05017 Disc Brake Quiet - 9 Wt Oz.: Automotive

    Don't apply this to any parts that move. I applied it to both the caliper side and the pad side.

  7. #87
    Roadster 919, S 2006 Doug_G's Avatar
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    Awesome. Thanks!
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  8. #88
    Senior Member strider's Avatar
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    I use the same product that wiztecy listed. However I only spray it on the back of the pads, let it set up for 10 mins, and then install them. I've never used it on the caliper as I'd be afraid of gumming up the piston. Maybe I'm not understanding what you mean by caliper side?
    Twilight Blue Roadster 2.5 - #1098 / Grey Model S Performance - #1459

  9. #89
    Senior Member wiztecy's Avatar
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    Correct, watch out not to gum up the piston on the caliper. I made sure that it didn't get down into the piston area, but rather only on the contact area where the pad rests. You'd be fine if you applied it only on the back / metal side of the pads. I wanted to make sure there was extra brake quiet applied as an extra safeguard against squeals.

    Quote Originally Posted by strider View Post
    I've never used it on the caliper as I'd be afraid of gumming up the piston. Maybe I'm not understanding what you mean by caliper side?

  10. #90
    2.5 Roadster
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    Icon5 Brake bias

    I am considering swapping from stock. One thing I have noticed is that I seem to have just as much (if not more) brake dust in the rear. I suspect Tesla might have added too much rear bias since all the weight is back there, so the fronts don't bite enough. Has anyone explored if there is a brake bias valve that could/should be removed or changed? Or is everyone getting plenty of bite with new pads? Since I rarely use the brakes, when I need to stop, I NEED TO STOP. NOW. I don't want to deal with any warm-up issues, my pads are likely always stone cold. Btw, the stock pads held up great at a track event last summer. Perhaps the stock pads are too biased for performance and don't work well cold? (I have a 2.5)

    Anyone else looked at brake bias?

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