Has anyone had an experience with a GFCI protected outlet being tripped by the simple act of plugging in the spare connector?
Had it happen to me in a parking garage.
Had it happen to me in a parking garage.
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No, I have not had this happen, but I've only used the Spare Mobile Connector in one location.Has anyone had an experience with a GFCI protected outlet being tripped by the simple act of plugging in the spare connector?
Had it happen to me in a parking garage.
It's a known interaction between the two GFCI circuits. I've replaced the GFCI on my spare connector with a normal plug. The GFCI module is easily disconnected from the cord, without needing to cut the cord; removing a cover plate on the plug side of the module exposes screw terminals where the cord is attached.
...I've replaced the GFCI on my spare connector with a normal plug. The GFCI module is easily disconnected from the cord, without needing to cut the cord; removing a cover plate on the plug side of the module exposes screw terminals where the cord is attached.
Can you post a picture of your completed product. Although I could figure this stuff out on my own, no need to re-invent the wheel. What I am mostly interested in finding out is whether you simply spliced a "manufactured" cord with an attached plug, or if you simply connected a non-GFCI plug to the bare wires.
I'm fairly certain that your electrician would have installed GFCI if it was required by code. Granted, there are some flaky people in the world who'll take your money without doing a complete job, but in this case I assume that he did everything required by law.Presumably the outdoor outlets at RV parks have to have GFCI, and whatever considerations require the mobile connector to have GFCI would require the same for an RV. No???
I've had my Roadster for just over a week and have only ever charged at home where I have an RV-style outlet but without GFCI. I don't know why there's no GFCI. I asked the electrician to put an RV outlet on a dedicated circuit and it never occurred to me to ask about a GFCI.
Yes, I'm sure he would.I'm fairly certain that your electrician would have installed GFCI if it was required by code.
Yep. Weird. I just didn't know that.Leave it to the government to require GFCI on outdoor 120V outlets but ignore outdoor 240V outlets at the same time.
A GFCI and a breaker do very different things: The breaker protects the wiring from excessive current. A GFCI protects you in case you touch a live wire and current flows through you to ground. That could kill you long before a breaker would trip.Note that RV parks appear to universally have breakers next to every 240V outlet, so perhaps it would be completely redundant to require GFCI on them. A properly-wired receptacle that is done "to code" should have no ground fault, otherwise it wouldn't be safe.
I really had no idea what's in that thing. My Zap Xebra plugs directly into the wall with an extension cord, and that goes directly to the charger in the car. I've never understood why the Leaf and the Tesla require an EVSE or UMC.(What do you think is in your UMC besides some signaling circuitry?)
It's more complicated than you describe, but you are correct that I oversimplified things in my comment.A GFCI and a breaker do very different things: The breaker protects the wiring from excessive current. A GFCI protects you in case you touch a live wire and current flows through you to ground. That could kill you long before a breaker would trip.
I assume that the ZAP Xebra only plugs into 120 VAC outlets, with a maximum current of 12 A or perhaps 15 A at most. That's a fairly simple circuit, but its charge rate is severely limited compared to the Tesla.I really had no idea what's in that thing. My Zap Xebra plugs directly into the wall with an extension cord, and that goes directly to the charger in the car. I've never understood why the Leaf and the Tesla require an EVSE or UMC.
A breaker will protect both the wiring and you, provided that the current exceeds the limit that is designed in. If you touch a live wire on a NEMA 14-50 and current flows through you to ground, then it will still trip the breaker if that current exceeds 50 A. I suppose you could be electrocuted on less than 50 A, assuming some kind of resistance prevented the current from exceeding that level, and the breaker wouldn't do a thing to help in that case. A breaker doesn't really distinguish between protecting the wiring and protecting you, it merely detects current flow.
These days, many electronics are housed in plastic casings, making the traditional grounded chassis impossible.