Trunk release issues

When you try to open the trunk with your key fob, do you hear the latches "firing"...or no noise at all?

If you can hear the latches firing, try pressing down on one side of the trunk (near the latch) whilst trying the fob button...this has worked for me in the past...

I have the same from time to time. I suspect the "pumps" are not strong enough to push it out of the latches.. When it's raining, the little water on the trunk makes it open 10cm less then when it's dry.. I will try to find stronger ones.

Yep, I've had this problem too. Apparently it's common. Eventually the physical key will open it after some fiddling...

I've had similar problems and have the actuator hardware from Tesla and directions on how to replace when I get around to it.

One hint from my experience:
Once you get the trunk open after it's been stuck, tie a relatively thin strap or rope to the manual trunk release inside the trunk. Then when you close the trunk leave the strap hanging a few inches out the back of the trunk. So you can use it to pull the release if needed until fixed. I also then used the trunk very infrequently. It takes some playing around with it to get it so it works well repeatedly; I believe that after you pull the release, you have to then push the release back in so the latches reset to be able to hold the trunk closed again, but you should also pull the release handle out a little since pulling the strap just along the back of the trunk doesn't easily pull the release out of its fully set in position. Thinking about it now, you might be able to have the strap hang out the front edge of the trunk which would then pull more in the right direction for the release. I'm not sure if that will work since I hadn't thought of it before to try it and now wonder if the strap will stay in a reasonable place when put like that.

It's a pain to have to deal with but, with the little playing around with it I have done, this works pretty well.

[Sorry, or luckily, I don't know the answer to the initial question, i.e., I never had to "break into my trunk", I was able to get in playing around with the key in the lock and various pushing down on the trunk.]

ravng said:

A bit concerned when I witness my local Tesla center just using some kind of spray lubrication, I am sure that stuff will do no good over time. I would guess some kind of grease would be better?

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Grease is actually worse IMO. I don't like the spray lube either unless it's dry, and even then I don't like it much. My cables (and trunk opening ability) were effectively ruined by Tesla spraying more and more spray lube and eventually grease on the cables and latches. They were unable to fix it until they replaced the cables. The problem is the cables and latches are located in a part of the car that sees a lot of road dust (and salt in some climates). Grease just attracts more dirt which creates more friction. In the winter the grease and so-called "dry" lubes are too thick and cause too much friction. Add lots of dirt attracted by the grease and you can forget opening your trunk.

I had problems with the trunk release around my last yearly service so they looked at it. The replaced an actuator. That helped, but I had problems about a month later. I think the struts are just old now. That problem was in deep winter and if I was gently lifting up the trunk when I tried the release it worked. In warmer weather now I'm ok. I'm going to ask about replacing the trunk struts at my next annual service (In about six weeks).

Does anyone know a part number for those struts? I'm still in my extended warranty but it's the kind of thing you know has to be replaced from time to time. I doubt they are a special Tesla part.

jaanton said:

I had problems with the trunk release around my last yearly service so they looked at it. The replaced an actuator. That helped, but I had problems about a month later. I think the struts are just old now. That problem was in deep winter and if I was gently lifting up the trunk when I tried the release it worked. In warmer weather now I'm ok. I'm going to ask about replacing the trunk struts at my next annual service (In about six weeks).

Does anyone know a part number for those struts? I'm still in my extended warranty but it's the kind of thing you know has to be replaced from time to time. I doubt they are a special Tesla part.

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There's a thread about those struts. Ultimately nobody could find the exact same strut in the US but they may not have looked in the right place.

I always thought the winter trunk problems were caused by too much thick grease on the cables and latches. As soon as Tesla stopped greasing my cables, it worked fine in the winter. But if gently lifting up helps then it may be the struts. It would be good to find a source for those.

I believe there's a few threads on this issue, would be nice to merge them. But I find the odd thing is that multiple people were having a similar issue of the trunk not opening or being sporadic including me I finally got locked out of my trunk for good, so I had to dig in. I have some pics and will update hopefully at a later date.

So my trunk release issue was a combination of multiple factors that caused it to stick, then work, stick then work and so on. I ended up removing the inside trunk emergency pull and that helped, it reduced drag of the whole linkage trunk system. But be warned that if there are kids in your family, don't do that. However, that thing won't work anyway if the trunk sticks. Its mostly a lawsuit thing with your neighbors. So be warned.

So I first had to remove jack both rear wheels up, remove the wheels, remove the rear fender liner, then find and pull *gently* on the trunk cable. But be very careful, there's a plastic grommet that houses the cable end to the latch. I can break easily and get damaged. I cracked the one on the drivers side, but its still functional and no issue with it now in terms of negatively affecting functionality. Once I successfully popped the trunk, I then removed the drivers tail-light to get to the actuator and linkage. The actuator no longer worked, pressing the trunk release inside or via key was a fail. Also using the key still didn't release the trunk. So anyway I was able to unbolt the linkage and actuator. Be warned, take a pic of how this thing is put together before you take things apart. Its complicated. I discovered the rubber sleeve that is like an accordion had deteriorated. That allowed dirt and dust as well as water to enter the actuator. So I took the entire actuator apart, cleaned it, lubed with wd-40 lightly, and then hooked it to a 12v motorcycle battery to work it. It at first was very slow and weak. But I kept helping it out and it got better. I did find a similar actuator on Amazon, two of them for something like $8.62 with free shipping. It had the same look, same sleeve, etc. But that didn't show up quickly, so I ended up fixing this one. I then put the actuator back on the Roadster as well as the assembly and tested. I could hear the actuator working and see it working, but again the trunk was stuck again.

I then took everything apart, making sure the actuator fired properly and that the linkage moved freely. It did. Installed it again, and still locked out. So then popped the trunk and looked closer at the cable route. From the drivers side on the inside of the rear bumper I could see a cover 1/4 the way from the latch in the cable run. I removed that cover and low and be hold, an adjustment barrel. So I ended up loosening the cable giving it more slack. I then found where the passenger side cable adjustment was, behind the Tesla name in the rear. You have to get to it from where the actuator sits. Its a pain but doable. I then loosened that one. Closed the trunk. Tried opening it via the inside trunk release, and waaa-Laaa, the drivers side popped open but not the passenger side, so trial & error, played with the barrel. And got both working. Next I had to tune the Key remote. For some reason that behavior is a little different, but I ended up finding a sweet spot for that which worked for both trunk release mechanisms. And the key just worked! I put everything back together and the Roadster has been fine not locking me out at all. I believe over 6 months have passed already and no issue. Also my Amazon.com actuators showed up, but I have no need to use them just yet. My actuator boot is still gone. I pulled off all that was left, so the actuator is still being exposed to the elements. But when it gets sticky I have 2 spare actuators which I believe will work in terms of strength. They look identical. And if that does not work, I have 2 extra boots for the original one. So I can always revive the old one again if needed.

Below are the actuators I ordered:

Amazon.com: CrazyforDeals Universal Car Power Door Lock Actuator 12-Volt Motor (2 Pack): Automotive



- - - Updated - - -

Here are the pics... As you can see, the trunk release mechanism is an overly complex piece of hardware, more than it has to be. Hence all the drag everything gets over time and with crud.



That pic above with the white plastic, well that's the drivers side latch. You can see the fragile plastic housing I described earlier when you try to release the trunk by pulling on the cable. So be careful, don't just pull haphazardly on the cable, ensure you're not stressing this part as you try to break into your own trunk. I had to take the latch off since the cable came undone from the latch due to all the monkeying around. .

Thanks. We learned something new today! :wink:

Thats a great write-up...... thanks!

You're welcome, always happy to help and contribute.

By the way, if anyone digs into this repair like I did please take a pic and post in this thread in of where the spring goes and is hooked. You can see it in the first pic, its a long tightly wound spring. Like I mentioned before, its complicated how all this stuff is put together and that spring popped off before I could see where it was originally latched on. So I placed it where it is in that pic for that it was my best guess and also that it gave for what I could find the best retention that latch mechanism needed to return/reset the actuator arm into is starting position which is out.

Also a pic of where the "emergency pull" arm is hooked on, again mine popped off before I dug into this mess which helped buy me some time. But others may need to know what's going on and how to hook that thing back in there...

wiztecy said:

You're welcome, always happy to help and contribute.

By the way, if anyone digs into this repair like I did please take a pic and post in this thread in of where the spring goes and is hooked. You can see it in the first pic, its a long tightly wound spring. Like I mentioned before, its complicated how all this stuff is put together and that spring popped off before I could see where it was originally latched on. So I placed it where it is in that pic for that it was my best guess and also that it gave for what I could find the best retention that latch mechanism needed to return/reset the actuator arm into is starting position which is out.

Also a pic of where the "emergency pull" arm is hooked on, again mine popped off before I dug into this mess which helped buy me some time. But others may need to know what's going on and how to hook that thing back in there...

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Its a lot easier to see without the bumper. The bolt with the other end of the spring is attached to the bumper.

hcsharp said:

There's a thread about those struts. Ultimately nobody could find the exact same strut in the US but they may not have looked in the right place.

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Just in case nobody has checked this site: I found struts for my non-Tesla car at liftsupportsdepot.com. They list the Lotus Elise - would the Roaster use the same struts?

21miDay said:

Just in case nobody has checked this site: I found struts for my non-Tesla car at liftsupportsdepot.com. They list the Lotus Elise - would the Roaster use the same struts?

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No. The Elise doesn't even use any support struts. The Exige does, but it only has one small lightweight one for the rear hatch.

Last night was my first really cold night with VIN# 55.

When I came out this morning, I found that remote opening of the trunk would not work at all - no sound when using the key remote button or the button on the dash. However, opening with the key in the lock works fine.

Am I bound for a failure and lock-out here? Is this related to cold temperatures (-7C), or is it a coincidence?

Many thanks. I never had this problem with VIN# 76.

That's how mine started acting up. Using the remote failed. Using the inside button worked. Then eventually that started failing, then my key was the only thing that worked. Then nothing worked and I was locked out.

wiztecy said:

That's how mine started acting up. Using the remote failed. Using the inside button worked. Then eventually that started failing, then my key was the only thing that worked. Then nothing worked and I was locked out.

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Yep. Same exact sequence for me.