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First Tesla UNDER 3.0 seconds?

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SabrToothSqrl

Active Member
Dec 5, 2014
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So... I haven't done this because I don't own a P85D, but I'm guessing someone somewhere would have the time and cash...

If I was to try to get the record for first under 3.0 seconds for 0-60 in a Tesla, couldn't one... try harder?

The most I've seen is guys with a helmet on a strip with some... tires... No real changes.

Rip out the back seat, door trim, panels, passenger seat, carpet, arm rest, floor mats, buy super light wheels, super sticky tires pumped up to explode levels of pressure, full charge pack on a 60 degree day, and truly crack the 3.0 second barrier?

I don't think this is rocket science, my friends in highschool would more than willingly sacrifice a back seat for a run in their Honda Civic...

"Simplify, and add lightness".

I'm sure losing 100lbs+ of weight with the lightest driver you could find adds up...

Could someone regear the car? Gearing it lower or higher might change the 0-60. Sure you'd lose range and top speed, but this is about a 0-60 record. Not daily driving...

Just a thought.
 
it's close, my best is 3.07.....

Just curious how you know it was 3.07? I have an AIM SOLO that measures acceleration but only from 6.2mph to 60mph. Curious what was used to determine a true 0-60 time.

Something tells me Brooks knows what he is talking about. He runs this site:
Drag Racing 1/4 Mile times - DragTimes.com

But more importantly, you should read the article about him and his car here:
Speed demon: One man's mission to make his Tesla go faster
 
Drop the panoramic roof ;) It does add about 120 lbs weight.
We did drive two P85D on a car scale and it was 130 lbs difference in weight and the only difference in options was panoramic roof and twin charger (think the charger is about 10 lbs). All other options was the same.
 
Could someone regear the car? Gearing it lower or higher might change the 0-60. Sure you'd lose range and top speed, but this is about a 0-60 record. Not daily driving...

Saleen, supposedly, changed the final drive on their latest P85D upgrades to get faster 0-60 times. There was a discussion a couple days ago about it in another thread here. I say supposedly because I'm not sure anyone actually has one and they're in serious financial trouble.

What tires though? I didn't think you could get anything of particularly soft compound in 19's with the correct width/profile.

You can't, at least not from the highest tier of summer tires. Best bet is Super Sports on the lightest 20"s you can find. Of course, if you don't care about keeping the overall diameter the same you have lots of options.
 
Drop the panoramic roof ;) It does add about 120 lbs weight.
We did drive two P85D on a car scale and it was 130 lbs difference in weight and the only difference in options was panoramic roof and twin charger (think the charger is about 10 lbs). All other options was the same.

The second charger might have added a small amount more to the weight with additional coolant fluid (they are hooked to the coolant loop aren't they?) and any additional cabling/piping that goes along with that. Probably an insignificant amount, just thought I'd note it...
 
You can't, at least not from the highest tier of summer tires. Best bet is Super Sports on the lightest 20"s you can find. Of course, if you don't care about keeping the overall diameter the same you have lots of options.
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go bigger diameter and the car might be a little quicker/faster?
but ya, the sizes are kind of screwy vs Tesla stock diameter & weight rating are an issue with most R tires
toyo R888 245/265 - but only 35 series in 19". might not be faster but I ran 19" 275/30 Re-11 vs the stock 21" DWs - P85 vs P85 and our slips had exactly the same trap time to the thousandth!
 
go bigger diameter and the car might be a little quicker/faster?
but ya, the sizes are kind of screwy vs Tesla stock diameter & weight rating are an issue with most R tires
toyo R888 245/265 - but only 35 series in 19". might not be faster but I ran 19" 275/30 Re-11 vs the stock 21" DWs - P85 vs P85 and our slips had exactly the same trap time to the thousandth!

I agree, the tyres are a bit oddball, very narrow for the power/weight of car, and stickier rubber helps balance this out. I think you'd have to be a bit careful going much larger rolling radius at the front as there's really not much clearance.

I have no idea what would happen if you had different rolling radius front to back. I know some ABS systems pick this up as a fault, but then you have the complexity of the second motor trying to spin in unison in a Tesla, so probably a doubly bad idea :D
 
19" wheels with lower profile (than stock) will shave off quite a bit. It would almost be like a slight re-gearing.

Electronics disabling:
Put the steering in Sport Mode (makes the steering servo work less, pulling less power)
HVAC off
Connectivity off
All dash brightness turned down
DRLs off

Weight is the biggest factor, here:
Start with a non-pano roof car, remove the rear seats, remove the passenger seat, remove everything in the frunk, trunk, and glovebox.
Replace the 12V battery with an Odyssey equivalent
The final steps would be to remove the carpet and all the sound deadening material paired with a lightweight driver's seat. Remove ALL the frunk plastics and liner.

I could see a 2.8-2.7 with that combo.
Dipping into the 10s in the quarter is realistic, too.
 
19" wheels with lower profile (than stock) will shave off quite a bit. It would almost be like a slight re-gearing.

Electronics disabling:
Put the steering in Sport Mode (makes the steering servo work less, pulling less power)
HVAC off
Connectivity off
All dash brightness turned down
DRLs off

Weight is the biggest factor, here:
Start with a non-pano roof car, remove the rear seats, remove the passenger seat, remove everything in the frunk, trunk, and glovebox.
Replace the 12V battery with an Odyssey equivalent
The final steps would be to remove the carpet and all the sound deadening material paired with a lightweight driver's seat. Remove ALL the frunk plastics and liner.

I could see a 2.8-2.7 with that combo.
Dipping into the 10s in the quarter is realistic, too.

Not sure how much aero comes into play in 0-60 time, but you could put tape over the gaps between hood and body, remove wiper blades, and remove side mirrors.

Also, I wonder if these times are meaningful without reference to other cars because the grade of the road will never be exactly 0, and there will likely be some wind. Going downhill with a tailwind, it might be pretty easy to do 0-60 in under 3.0.
 
this is interesting, I know the pano adds weight, I was VERY close to ordering my car without the pano roof just to save the weight, but I figured it was around 50 pounds and on a 4,900 pound car the performance differnce is pretty small.

120 pounds could drop the P85D in the 2.9x 0-60 area, just have to get some one to test it....

mabye I just have a 100 pound person drive my car and see what it does, I'm about 180 pounds....



Drop the panoramic roof ;) It does add about 120 lbs weight.
We did drive two P85D on a car scale and it was 130 lbs difference in weight and the only difference in options was panoramic roof and twin charger (think the charger is about 10 lbs). All other options was the same.
 
this is interesting, I know the pano adds weight, I was VERY close to ordering my car without the pano roof just to save the weight, but I figured it was around 50 pounds and on a 4,900 pound car the performance differnce is pretty small.

120 pounds could drop the P85D in the 2.9x 0-60 area, just have to get some one to test it....

mabye I just have a 100 pound person drive my car and see what it does, I'm about 180 pounds....

I'm 130 lbs (butt naked).... and I've been meaning to make a trip to visit Emmanuel and check out his 12C... maybe we'll have to schedule my OH to FL trip around your ability to hit the track... :D
 
One of these days I'll get on with with my lightweight solid rotor(s) project as I have acquired 75% of the parts needed but have not found the time. My goal was to reduce rotation mass, decrease 0-60 times, increase efficiency (no triple-stepped cooling vanes unnecessarily beating the air), and a reduced stopping distance (but will most certainly increase stopping distances with repeated hard braking as premature brake fade will be inevitable (absolutely no track time allowed)). This strategy should suit my driving style since I am a 98%+ "regener".
 
The pano glass part that slides back is somewhat easily removed. Have someone fabricate a thin plastic or better yet aluminum panel to match the glass and swap it out for drag runs.

Remove the passenger and rear seats.

Remove the interior door panels (where the armrests and speakers are).

Remove the dash panels.

Get carbon ceramic brake rotors.

Get super light 19" wheels.

Those last two are important as that's unsprung and rotating mass.

Easily under 3.0s.