Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Help me decide what to buy!!

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
So, I have the chance to get one of two vehicles:

2013 P85 Red MC, Pano, Tech, 19"Turb, Leather Int, Susp
BUT it has a Rebuilt title.

OR

2013 85 Silver, Pano, Tech, 21" Turb, Leather Int, Susp
CPO

What do I do??!!

What do you guys think of Rebuilt titles??
I checked the vin with Tech Support, and it's clear. Is it worth getting still???

Both have 12k miles (though it's irrelevant)

-Levi
 
I mean, not to play devil's advocate, but why not go for the rebuilt.
The rebuilt has a 55k price tag, while the CPO is 10k more.

But there are no faults, and I've checked with Tech Support, and they see nothing wrong with it. So, what's the worst that could happen by getting the Rebuilt.
Although, I do prefer the Silver, since it's my dream car. But the rebuilt Red, I mean...it's a P85, and it's just mean, in red.
 
I would say get the CPO 85.

Caveat to note - buying tires on the 21" wheels will cost you a lot more money than tires on the 19" wheels. But the wheels look cooler :)

Oh, I had the 21". I don't really mind the wear and tear of the wheels. Besides, it really depends on your driving. I drive like and old man, so, my tires will last probably just as long as regular tires.
 
For the $10k difference, I would take the CPO. If the other one were just a private seller and otherwise clean with no damage history or rebuilt title, I would still think that CPO warranty, 200 point inspection and Tesla delivery would be worth at least a $4k premium over a private party sale.
 
Last edited:
Wait for a better CPO if the problem is the color...
P85 is faster than 85, but if you haven't driven either, I would before you think you need the extra 1s to 60 (as they are both similar speed beyond 60).

The color is not the problem, I just know my ultimate perfect car is Silver with the Pano roof. But, I have driven all models, from the 40 to the 70D. I honestly can't really tell the difference except for the Ps, especially the P85D, and that's only as far as torque is concerned. So, I don't really care much for the "internal" difference. The P calls to me, but I would be more than happy to just have an 85.

- - - Updated - - -

For the $10k difference, I would take the CPO. If the other one were just a private seller and otherwise clean with no damage history or rebuilt title, I would still think that CPO warranty,200 point inspection and Tesla delivery would be worth at least a $4k premium over a private party sale.

For the most part I think you're right, but that is ALL considering resale value, and that's considering that I would resell it sooner or later. I'm looking for a car that I won't sell for a VERY long time, at least for the next 10-15 years. Which for people like me, is an eternity. I'm looking for a lifer. And if a red P85 has more of a permanent hold than the CPO, without considering the possibility of trading up eventually, then that is more appealing, especially since there IS nothing wrong with the car, and it's 10 grand less.

- - - Updated - - -

What happened to your 60S Levi? Last I saw you were upset about the reduced range after Tesla updated the battery.

I vote CPO, just because I'm a scaredy cat (sp?).

I have it up for sale. Pretty much, I have everything in order, and the only thing holding me back from buying either of these two is selling mine.
I deduced that the range loss of my car is Lithium Memory. I've done a lot of research on it, and because of the volatility of a static number in percentage in charge, over time, with different charging habits, it has, it does, and will move the charge in either direction. Just gotta find the sweet spot.
Bottom line is, at it's worst, the battery has "lost" 4% of charging range. And that's no issue at all. And it comes and goes. So, as I said, I just gotta find the sweet spot of charging rate, charging range, amperage, and driving habits to bring the numbers back up.
But since I did have the battery absent for about 3 months, I have to rebuild the memory of the cells. So, I'm still working on that. I'll keep you posted.
 
I would only buy the rebuilt car if I had detailed information/pictures of what was done to the car. A good rebuild will put a car back together like it once was, but a bad one will have gremlins everywhere.

CPO's really are an attractive option. I would probably go for that, and buy a red if that's your preferred color.
 
I would only buy the rebuilt car if I had detailed information/pictures of what was done to the car. A good rebuild will put a car back together like it once was, but a bad one will have gremlins everywhere.

CPO's really are an attractive option. I would probably go for that, and buy a red if that's your preferred color.

Silver is my preferred color, actually.
But, I have bad past experiences with buying rebuilt, or "fixed" cars before. HOWEVER, and a HUGE HOWEVER, ...they were ICEs.
Teslas are a whole different concept. And I once tried the "Salvaged/Rebuilt" route. The sellers said it was completely fine. There were no faults showing, and everything looked great.
Then I called Tech Support and they said the car was showing 2 battery issues, that wouldn't let me drive the car further than 50 miles without dying. I was glad I caught it, but even the sellers didn't know.
I've checked both with this car, and everything checks out. So, I don't see THAT big a problem with buying THIS rebuilt car. But if it's really that big a deal, then the CPO, or even an inventory would be the way to go.

-L
 
Can you get comprehensive insurance on the rebuild/salvage title car?
If you can and still think it is a good deal I would take it to a certified Tesla body shop and pay to have it inspected.

Oh yeah, first thing I would do, on the first day, is take it to the service center to get an annual inspection.
My insurance company won't insure it fully. But then again, I'd like to think that Tesla owners are not really that worried about money expenditures. :/
 
If you are planning on keeping it for a long time or reselling, I don't really see where that changes the calculus between CPO and a rebuilt/salvage vehicle for $10k less. Whether I was planning on keeping it for a year, 3 years or 15 years, CPO would be worth the $10k to me in every scenario.

Give me a $20k discount or higher, and now we have something to discuss. (e.g. CPO P85 @ $70k vs. Rebuilt P85 @ $50k)