Paint Armor removal experience???

Funny you should ask that question, as I just spent the last two days stripping two cars of that ****ing crap. You have to peel it off real slow, making sure the adhesive comes with. Yes, it takes a while and a lot of muscle. The adhesive is the real pain if it is left behind. I didn't have any problem with the paint peeling off, that would probably only be if the car was repainted. Pull the film straight up, perpendicular to the car. If you see the adhesive residue being left on the paint, stop pulling and start again in a slightly different direction. Using heat only makes the film tear. The adhesive can be removed with an adhesive remover (3M makes several), but it requires a lot of effort. You need to be very careful rubbing the residue off, as the clear coat on the paint is EXTREMELY thin. All the stronger solvents I have tried also remove the paint. The 1.5 I did was much harder than my 2.5 due to its age. Go slow and take your time.

I've wondered about how the film was removed. So you do not use any heat you just pull it off? How do you get thhe "pulling off" process started without using some kind of tool and scratching the paint?

Coincidence, I dropped off my Roadster today to have all the old (yellowing) film removed, paint fixed, car detailed, and new self-healing film applied.

Installer told me that in rare instances, usually when dealing with after-market paint, some paint will come up with the film removal. Since my paint is still factory, no problems are anticipated - but I heard the warning just the same.

Pics will be posted when done. Hard to be without the Roadster, but I'm looking forward to the beautification .

After a minor collision on the front bumper that just tore a hole in the paint armor but did not damage the paint, I was expecting the repair would only require removing the old armor, perhaps buffing the paint, and then applying new armor. However, the process of removing the old armor did cause some of the factory paint to peel off. I was disappointed. So be careful.

slcasner said:

After a minor collision on the front bumper that just tore a hole in the paint armor but did not damage the paint, I was expecting the repair would only require removing the old armor, perhaps buffing the paint, and then applying new armor. However, the process of removing the old armor did cause some of the factory paint to peel off. I was disappointed. So be careful.

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If removing the protective wrap installed by Tesla causes damage (rather than protects from damage) to the Tesla-applied factory paint, well, you see where this is going ...

I know where to get the pre-cut paint armor panels if anybody is interested. If you are replacing your paint armor you can just order the pieces you need and it will save a lot on the installation fees to have them pre-cut. I don't know if they offer the newer style self-healing films.

I peeled off the factory fitted 3M shield from the big panels on the side (behind the doors)
I used a hair dryer to gently heat along with pulling, it came off pretty easily.

I am so pleased I did this because the shield was getting a bit yellow - and removing it made the whole car look like new.
I kept the shield on the front bumper (fender in US speak), and under the doors as it hasn't yellowed and protects from stones etc.

Mine was turning yellow, too.

You will want it replaced with either Suntek or Xpel Ultimate film. Both are self healing and by far the best looking films on the market. Suntek looks the best out of the two, but the xpel is slightly thicker.

bonnie said:

Mine was turning yellow, too.

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I think white cars are sensitive to this where other colours might not be .... white IS the best colour, IMHO as in 'white lightning'