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Roadster stereo and speaker specs

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Does anyone happen to know where I can find information on the speaker systems offered in the Roadsters? The best I could find so far is the official site (Roadster Features and Specifications | Tesla Motors) that simply says "amplified 400 Watt 7-speaker sound system". I found a few threads talking about Model S systems on here, but can't find much technical about the Roadster. Specifically, I'm wandering about the Infotainment Group system in the 2.5s right now, but if you have information on earlier versions that could be very helpful if I end up with a different model than expected (or to others in a similar situation to mine).

Specifically, I'd love to know:
  • What is the power output and how is it divided between subwoofer and non-subs? The official site says 400w but doesn't stipulate if that is RMS or how much of that power is eaten up by the Sub.
  • Where are each of the 7 speakers and what type (sub, woofer, mid, tweeter) and size are they? Specs, including mounting depth, would be great to know as well. From pics I can guess a mid on each side of the dash and a tweeter in each door.
  • Assuming that I'm correct that there is one sub positioned behind the driver's seat, is there room to add another behind the passenger's seat?
  • Is there any limitation in the amount of power you can draw if you decide to upgrade the system, or is it just a matter of how much range you're willing to give up? And are there any other limitations with upgrades that someone used to ICE cars may not think about?

Thanks!
 
The Infotainment system in my Roadster 2.5 is an Alpine IVA-NAV-10 (which is basically an Alpine IVA-W900 with a Tesla splash screen). The IVA-W900 has a 4-channel power amp, rated at 18 watts RMS (40 watts peak).

There are a pair of front speaker in the dash, a pair of door-mounted tweeters, and a pair of rear speakers...plus a powered sub (behind the driver's seat, I think). I'm not sure of the model/specs of the sub power amp.

The fronts and door tweeters are wired to the "front" pair of outputs...then the rears.

The stereo is very-much "meh". It's not great. 18 watts per channel ain't much.

From what I understand (and others can probably speak more intelligently and in greater detail about this), you don't have unlimited 12V current to draw from. In fact, just the opposite. The car doesn't have a 70A alternator spinning away, giving you limitless current to play with. It's a pretty significant limitation in doing any kind of a stereo upgrade.

I've seen others...who DID do a significant upgrade...go through the process of installing an external 12V battery in the trunk - just to power the stereo. They charge this auxiliary battery externally when the park the car (or as-needed).
 
Thanks Habious; that's great information!

I noticed you said that 18w per channel isn't much (which I don't disagree with), but I thought the Infotainment system came with an amp. Or do the 6 front speakers get a total of 72w and then the amp just powers the subwoofer?

As I understand it, the 2.5s come with that 12v battery built-in so that you don't need to do that work yourself. Is that incorrect? I thought that was one of the advantages of the 2.5.
 
Thanks Habious; that's great information!

I noticed you said that 18w per channel isn't much (which I don't disagree with), but I thought the Infotainment system came with an amp. Or do the 6 front speakers get a total of 72w and then the amp just powers the subwoofer?

As I understand it, the 2.5s come with that 12v battery built-in so that you don't need to do that work yourself. Is that incorrect? I thought that was one of the advantages of the 2.5.

As I understand it, the amp in the head unit powers the 6 main speakers, and there's a separate external power amp dedicated to the sub.

The 12V aux battery is a small battery (like a motorcycle battery). It's not made for high current draw. It's there to run the electronic locks and other accessories when the main pack is off.

Again, I'm not saying I'm the expert on this but, this is the information I've gleaned from others on this site.
 
The 12V aux battery is a small battery (like a motorcycle battery). It's not made for high current draw. It's there to run the electronic locks and other accessories when the main pack is off...

Some of the aftermarket custom major stereo upgrades done for Roadster (think Dr.Taras A&E mods) put in an extra 12V lead/acid battery and separate 12V charger to provide enough power for ground shaking subs. You had to plug in an extra 120V wall cord just to recharge the stereo battery from time to time.
 
Yeah, I did this, but used a Lithium "Smart" 12v 40ah battery in the trunk, as opposed to a lead acid...more expensive, but the Lithium battery weighs significantly less than the lead acid, plus will have a much longer life.

For average daily driving, I have to charge the trunk 12V battery about once every 10 days ...be aware though that even a stand alone 40ah 12v battery can be drained in less than two full days of driving (had it happen on a road trip :crying: )...I had the installer keep the (Parrott) head unit running off of the Roadster's original 12v battery, and only power the amps off of the trunk 12V...that way, if I run out of 12V juice on a road trip, I don't lose the NAV, I just lose the sound.

I do carry a small 12V 7ah Lithium battery as an emergency spare...also, the 12V Lithium battery charger is quite small and easy to take with you...if you were on a road trip, it is very easy to disconnect the trunk 12V battery and take it into your lodgings to charge overnight...just be sure to mount the trunk 12V battery using a "quick connect" connection...

Overall, I am very pleased with the sound...and the extra hook up to charge the trunk 12V is no big deal...

Some of the aftermarket custom major stereo upgrades done for Roadster (think Dr.Taras A&E mods) put in an extra 12V lead/acid battery and separate 12V charger to provide enough power for ground shaking subs. You had to plug in an extra 120V wall cord just to recharge the stereo battery from time to time.
 
I was thinking about this... Why not parallel another 12v SLA battery with main one? If the charge current is too much for the two, put a small resistor (couple of ohms?) between them to limit the current. Take the audio amp off the second battery, and if it runs down, no huge loss.

SLA batteries charge at a constant voltage, so the lack of a second charger wouldn't be a big deal, right?
 
To each his own...Personally, I wouldn't upgrade the speakers & head unit without increasing the power of the amps...also, no need to put in an audiophile level sound system, just a better quality sounding one...with enough power, you can appreciate the "better sound" just fine imo...

There isn't enough dynamat in the world to bother putting in a high quality stereo system. The shakes and rattles just ruin it all lol
 
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There is something though about a drive with the top down along a slow twisty road with some nice music. Speakers are the most critical part of the system and the stock speakers are mediocre at best. There are much better speakers with the same low power rating. Just a little effort made a significant improvement for me.
 
There is something though about a drive with the top down along a slow twisty road with some nice music. Speakers are the most critical part of the system and the stock speakers are mediocre at best. There are much better speakers with the same low power rating. Just a little effort made a significant improvement for me.

Agreed .. can you share the spec's and links of the speakers you used.
Are they a straight fit (ie without any cutting etc.)
 
What kind of speakers did you put in?

I had Morel Hybrids installed...very pleased with them!

There is something though about a drive with the top down along a slow twisty road with some nice music. Speakers are the most critical part of the system and the stock speakers are mediocre at best. There are much better speakers with the same low power rating. Just a little effort made a significant improvement for me.

- - - Updated - - -

The Morel Hybrids are right sized for quick install...4" speakers, the same size as the stock speakers...tweeters are also right sized...

Agreed .. can you share the spec's and links of the speakers you used.
Are they a straight fit (ie without any cutting etc.)
 
I installed the Pioneer 8000-NEX head unit and it actually sounds rather decent with the stock speakers. However, when I turn up the volume, such as when driving on the highway with the top down, the bass annoyingly cuts out intermittently. I'm pretty sure the subwoofer amp is getting overpowered.

Has anyone installed a flat/compact sub with built in amplifier? I'm thinking the passenger footwell might me a decent installation location. Would our stock 12V battery be enough to power it? I saw a few on the Crutchfield site that provide 75W RMS power. That seems reasonable. Just want to fill out the low end, no interest in breaking glass or making the car next to me vibrate like the kids these days. :)