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They added a "New Tires" menu option in Version 4.1.33. When you activate it, it temporarily disables TC and Regen. Then you're supposed to coast in a straight line at 20-60 mph for 10 seconds, from which information it figures out the new tires. Then it will turn TC and Regen back on, and away you go. The instructions say it's for "Installing Snow Tires", but I'm sure it would work for other brands of tires too.Originally Posted by tomsax
I do not know if what you experienced was anything other than a fluke. New tires have lower static friction meaning they will spin easier and the wet traction is not as great as it will be once the finished is worn off. That usually takes about 5 or 10 miles. You should always be extra careful when the road surface is anything less than ideal. But new tires are typically the best you will ever be.
Traction control does not really relearn new tires per say. What it does do is look at the real time wheel speed signal inputs and applies ABS or divert torque (depending on what type of car) away from the wheel with the faster wheel speed.
That's just odd, I have no idea what their logic is, but I would love to know.
Did you follow those links I posted before?:
Tire Tech Information - Breaking In Your Tires
Tires: break in period, mold release, color appearance
500 Miles of Breaking In Your Tires? [Archive] - NASIOC
I like you, you are really quick with the links and information.
Basically what they are getting at is heat the tires up.
This applies to brakes as well.
Heat in many aspects is a problem, in this regard it actually help break in the tires, and or brakes even ICEs need a certain amount of heat to work as efficiently as they can.
Back in the day I remember mounting snowtires on rwd police cars when I was working at my local Goodyear store. Those tires had immediate grip once the car was returned to the floor and driven out of the shop. Allot of the initial traction has allot to do with the purpose of the tire. Performance tires with wide tread blocks and end of the alphabet speed ratings tend to be constructed provide traction under the heaviest of loads.
Break in periods are not looked into enough by most users in real world situations. I'm gonna do a little digging into this. You guys over here are great though I like the fact that you back everything up.
Is there a handout from Tesla that you can hand to the tire people when you get your tires changed that tells them exactly what to do? I remember reading in a previous thread that the Roadster has to be lifted in a certain way to not ruin the car.
The roadster must be lifted one side at a time using well defined points. Not doing so will damage the chassis and or the body...
The jacking points are shown in the user manual. Page 9-12 in the UK version (for some reason I could not extract the zip file that contains the US user manual...). The following page shows how to raise the roadster using a two post lift. This requires using special adapters which, I guess, one can order from TM.
When the Tesla Toronto service rep (Dustin) did repairs to my headlamp assemblies, he had to remove each front tire to get to the headlamps. He had a small jack to raise the front of the car and then used a portable jack stand to support the Roadster while he did his work.
He gave me two interesting pieces of advice. The first was to wrap electrical tape around the locking nut remover so it wouldn't scrape the wheel hub while turning.
His other good recommendation was not to allow the tire people to use an impact wrench to take the tires on or off. Again, he was concerned about the impact gun slipping and hitting the hub (the nuts are recessed into the hub). I liked the extra care that he took but I don't know if my local tire garage would listen to me, especially if I wasn't present while they did the work.
Also, the Tesla tech had a proper torque wrench so that he could ensure the wheel nuts had all been correctly reinstalled. First Class / Great Job !!
Thanks. I e-mailed Tesla about creating a one or two page detailed PDF online (with pictures) that you would simply print out when going to Firestone tires (or any tire store) to have your tires replaced. It would tell them how to lift the car, what to use....etc They're looking into it.
It looks like the AD08 tires came out last year that serve as a replacement for the standard AD07s on the Roadster
http://www.yokohamatire.com/tires/advan_ad08.aspx
It appears that they don't come in all the sizes that the AD07s come in though (I could find matching rear tires but not front)
Too bad, it looks like they are an improvement over the older tires.
update:
Heard back from Yokohama tires:
Thank you for contacting our office.
You are correct the AD08 is manufactured in the rear tire size you listed. Unfortunately, it is not manufactured in size 175/55R16. However, the AD07 is.
Thank you for your interest in Yokohama Tire Corporation.
Last edited by dsm363; 10-21-2010 at 06:44 PM. Reason: updated
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