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Another successful Airmatics Lowering Links install (with photos)

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You can see a recent install write-up with great details listed here:
Lowered my car this morning with adjustable links: Key steps that ensure precision

For more info about these links and where to order, go here:
EVOLUTION LOWERING KITS | Airmatic Lowering Links

For some comparative data versus the other thread...
My links were the same length on my 2015 85D (approx 65mm long front, and 85mm rear)
We set my new links to be around 8mm longer in front, 7mm in the rear (approx 73mm front, and 92 mm rear)

Measurement changes at all four corners after lowering were taken from the lower edge of rim to the arch of the fender. These measurements were done by my shop not by me. Based on the various figures they gave me, here are the deltas at both Standard and Low ride height settings...

NET lowering at STANDARD ride height:
LF 30mm
RF 27mm
LR 8mm
RR 8mm

NET lowering at LOW ride height:
LF 24mm
RF 23mm
LR 13mm
RR 12mm

It was odd that the front vs rear lowering was different after. Prior to install, the front/rear drop STD vs LOW was almost identical (11-12mm). After the install of the links the front of the car only went down 6mm STD vs LOW, but the rear went down about 15-16mm. This makes me think that the car wasn't sitting totally level when this was all measured. Or that the measurements are just not 100% perfect. But overall I'd say a successful installation was achieved.

There has been some recent discussions as to what settings the car would achieve with these new Evolution series links from Airmatic. Though we originally set the fronts to about 8mm, I think we MAY have adjusted them to closer to 9mm long (I know we talked about it at the shop but don't recall if we actually did that or not). Either way, the shortest you could set the front links would be around 7mm longer than stock. Mark @ Airmatic had speculated this would be close to a 35mm drop, however I would say that doesn't match the measurements my shop gave me (but again YRMV).

As you can see in the photos (taken at the LOW setting), the car sits precisely where I wanted it to be. There is still a minimal amount of rake which I wanted. And the car isn't TOO low, and could still safely be driven at this setting. I was going to go more aggressive, such that LOW would only work when parked. But decided against that, mainly because there are a lot of places I drive that I need to "clear" and going too low would potentially cause issues for the car even at VERY HIGH setting. Sadly that caused me to now set it as low as I could (which would have been purely for cosmetics, of course)...

Enjoy the installation photos!
Ari

PS: After my alignment later this week, I have plans to get all the bright work (Chrome) covered in black vinyl next week. Final photos will be posted after that in a new thread, as the car will at that time finally be "complete" for me... and also then ready for Reach the Beach GTG... :)

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Looks good!
I'm curious what this does in "high" mode? (my ideal would be a way of getting a lower low without sacrificing high, or ideally even getting a higher high)

You're basically offsetting the entire range up or down (however you adjust the links). So in my case, the front is about 25-30mm lower and the rear about 8-12mm lower. This means that ALL settings are lower by that value/height. There is no way to get a lower low and a higher high at the same time, as this is limited by the travel of the suspension itself. The car has about 2-inches of total travel approximately. Links like these simply make it so that the car can sit lower, but in turn, you'll have less ground clearance across the board.
 
Will this mod void your warranty if the underside or batteries are damaged due to scraping?

I'm sure that Tesla wouldn't cover anything that was negligence of operator, obviously. That would be like taking your car in for "defective leather" because you threw a wet towel on it that bled dye into he seat material. But that is why I didn't go quite as low as I could have... to ensure that I'd keep the car at a safe and reasonable level. Another benefit of the smart air setup, of course :)
 
Will this mod void your warranty if the underside or batteries are damaged due to scraping?

I've been driving mine on the low setting for weeks and the risk appears to be nil. The warranty issue in my view is way overblown on this site. I've had no scrapes of any kind on the same roads I drove before lowering.

But yes, if I do something stupid like drive over a high speed bump on the low setting and damage the battery I've got nobody but myself to blame. I wouldn't expect Tesla to cover me for my own foolishness.

As I noted in my own lowering post I only drive on the low setting at low speeds. But my normal is now the former low and the rear alignment is set for minimum rear tire wear at the normal setting. Thus most of my driving is in normal.
 
Looks like you have Chris's longer arms too. Is that correct. I have a set just waiting to get the bushings in and installed. Car looks great.

Yeah my setup as shown in this thread is with the EVSE arms... that is indeed true.

I have the adjustable camber links that SUPRKAR developed.

got any pics? how much are those? I should probably look into that, as my camber wasn't precisely where I wanted after alignment, tho still pretty close... hmm....
 
I apologize if this was covered before, but I haven't been able to find the answer. Are installing the links as easy as popping them off and popping the new ones on without need for tools? (aside from tools needed to lift the car up)

Access to the links is best done on a lift. Additionally, access is greatly increased by removing the wheels from the car, while it is on the lift. Beyond that, installation is more or less as you described, if that is the approach you want to take.

My shop felt it was safer/easier to prevent damage or such by removing the links and sensors at the same time, and swapping links "on their bench" at the shop. As such, the sensor that is attached to each switch has a metal bracket that is attached to the car usually with a single bolt. Removal of the links as shown in artsci's photos show just link removal. My shop took more off the car, and swapped links when off the car.

- - - Updated - - -

I bought the adjustable links from BBC Speed And Machine in New Jersey. Cost about $800 with the $200 credit for the old links.

Thank you for the photos. That price seems like a lot, but the adjustability might be nice. My problem right now is my alignment isn't where I want it, but I'm not sure it is bad enough to matter. See below. From what I can tell this just means on hard-left-handed turns the wheel MIGHT go past 0-camber to a positive situation. But I'm not really sure if that is the case or not. Obviously Tesla has a spec for a good reason, but as it sits I prob won't feel any difference in handling (I don't as of right now). But the red zone is why I was asking to see your links :)

File Apr 10.jpeg
 
Access to the links is best done on a lift. Additionally, access is greatly increased by removing the wheels from the car, while it is on the lift. Beyond that, installation is more or less as you described, if that is the approach you want to take.

My shop felt it was safer/easier to prevent damage or such by removing the links and sensors at the same time, and swapping links "on their bench" at the shop. As such, the sensor that is attached to each switch has a metal bracket that is attached to the car usually with a single bolt. Removal of the links as shown in artsci's photos show just link removal. My shop took more off the car, and swapped links when off the car.

- - - Updated - - -



Thank you for the photos. That price seems like a lot, but the adjustability might be nice. My problem right now is my alignment isn't where I want it, but I'm not sure it is bad enough to matter. See below. From what I can tell this just means on hard-left-handed turns the wheel MIGHT go past 0-camber to a positive situation. But I'm not really sure if that is the case or not. Obviously Tesla has a spec for a good reason, but as it sits I prob won't feel any difference in handling (I don't as of right now). But the red zone is why I was asking to see your links :)

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Your camber settings are close enough. It's not worth spending another $800 to get them perfect.