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What plug is this ?

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Found this at a campsite
love to know what type of plug this is.
IMG_1546 (Large).JPG
 
Sorry Just found out what it was
NEMA TT–30 is a 30 A, 125 V outlet
I cant believe it is only 125 v
because the car can only charge 12 amps at 125 volt
enough for ac ? over night .
Shouldn't the car do 16A at 120V? (TESLA does have an adapter for 120v 20A outlets, 80% of which would be 16A, not 12A) Others here may know if there's a way to convince the car to go even higher (If you have 30A available, you might as well do 24A)
As for power, yeah, it kinda sucks, but you know what they say, any power is better than no power...
 
Keep in mind you'll be limited to either 20A or 24A. Since it's only going to be 120VAC, you'll get 6-8mph charge. It's better than 120V@12A, though!

If you had access to two TT-30 outlets, you could use a combiner and get 240V@24A. You just have to make sure they are on different legs.

Thank You All for the quick replies, this is truly an awesome car with awesome support people!

I am going with this
NEMA 14-50R to TT-30P RV Plug Adapter
Great place for future adapters
 
Keep in mind you'll be limited to either 20A or 24A. Since it's only going to be 120VAC, you'll get 6-8mph charge. It's better than 120V@12A, though!

If you had access to two TT-30 outlets, you could use a combiner and get 240V@24A. You just have to make sure they are on different legs.
Campsites are the last place you want to use one of those devices because of the higher chance of failure. Those combine devices can end up being the return path for entire pedestals. See my FAQ (signature) for more information.
 
Just be careful!

The standard TT-30P to 14-50R adapter made for an RV will not work with a Tesla!!! You need to get one made for a Tesla, and that will not work for an RV...

Because the UMC wants 240V across both legs of the NEMA 14-50. The 'dog bone' adapter just puts 120V on one half of the 14-50 with one hot leg giving potential over neutral and the other leg is not energized at all.

db2.png
 
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Because the UMC wants 240V across both legs of the NEMA 14-50. The 'dog bone' adapter just puts 120V on one half of the 14-50 with one hot leg giving potential over neutral and the other leg is not energized at all.

View attachment 77120

Close... they bridge both hot pins on the 14-50 to the single hot on the TT-30. The Tesla sees 0V because there's no potential difference between them.
 
Close... they bridge both hot pins on the 14-50 to the single hot on the TT-30. The Tesla sees 0V because there's no potential difference between them.

Not always... It is inconsistent. Some dog bones are like the one in the picture.

Some more talk of RV weirdness here:
Using electrical adapters for your RV
...What the adapter does, is terminates one of these 110/120 volt legs inside the adapter so you are only getting ONE 110/120 volt leg...
...some campgrounds cheat..... and even though they advertise 50 amp RV service, they are only actually providing ONE 110/120 volt 50 amp side. They do what's similar to the adapter and bridge the L1 and L2 legs inside the pedestal and thus only provide 50 amps total to your RV. That's usually good enough to run your 2 air-conditioners and some other stuff....but it may not be enough depending on what all you are using at once...

The situation is fairly 'sucky'. They sell all these adapters that you can plug together and easily overload the circuit. You can buy a NEMA5-15 to TT-30 adapter and then a TT-30 to NEMA14-50 adapter and plug a whole 100amp RV worth of stuff into a 15amp circuit. They say things like "make sure not to turn on your air-conditioner unless you know what you are doing." I think some people treat this as "turn things on until the circuit breaker trips" to know how much current you can get away with. It is no wonder that many sockets in RV parks are in sad condition.

50 Amp Wiring Modification
...On many motorhomes, electrical service for a 50 amp line is split into two parts. The first part, the 30 amp side of the socket, goes to the normal, everyday things we all use. It includes one of two air conditioners. The other side of the socket goes to the second air conditioner...


RVers sometimes create wacky cables trying to extract all the power they can from those pedestals:
crazyrv.png

 
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Campsites are the last place you want to use one of those devices because of the higher chance of failure. Those combine devices can end up being the return path for entire pedestals. See my FAQ (signature) for more information.

The return path for the entire pedestal? If the pedestal only has 120VAC going to it, how is that a problem? If the pedestal has a 14-50R on it, the OP probably wouldn't be playing with the TT30, now would they? ;)

All of the ones I've seen that have a TT30 and a 5-15 duplex, only have a single 30A single pole breaker going to them.
 
The return path for the entire pedestal? If the pedestal only has 120VAC going to it, how is that a problem? If the pedestal has a 14-50R on it, the OP probably wouldn't be playing with the TT30, now would they? ;)

All of the ones I've seen that have a TT30 and a 5-15 duplex, only have a single 30A single pole breaker going to them.

If you use two different pedestals that are on opposite legs with one of those combiners, you can end up with a situation where the combiner becomes a parallel return path for the neutral conductor on one of the pedestals; that, or with a neutral failure in one of the pedestals you'll end up with the normally-grounded guts of the combiner floating at 120V. I detailed the scenario previously here.

Bottom line: the combiners are dangerous. Do it the right way.