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New battery for #105

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#105 is getting an new (refurbished) battery next week. It went the the SC this week unable to charge with a battery service required error.

Not sure how I feel about it yet but they are replacing my 139CAC battery with a 146CAC battery. I don't know a ton about the batteries but it seems my CAC is always lower in winter and I haven't balanced it in a while. The new battery is coming from CA.

Should I be concerned that the new battery from CA might not be a true equivalent?
 
#105 is getting an new (refurbished) battery next week. It went the the SC this week unable to charge with a battery service required error.

Not sure how I feel about it yet but they are replacing my 139CAC battery with a 146CAC battery. I don't know a ton about the batteries but it seems my CAC is always lower in winter and I haven't balanced it in a while. The new battery is coming from CA.

Should I be concerned that the new battery from CA might not be a true equivalent?

Wishing the best for you and the British Racing Green. Keep us updated on your progress.
 
#105 is getting an new (refurbished) battery next week. It went the the SC this week unable to charge with a battery service required error.

Not sure how I feel about it yet but they are replacing my 139CAC battery with a 146CAC battery. I don't know a ton about the batteries but it seems my CAC is always lower in winter and I haven't balanced it in a while. The new battery is coming from CA.

Should I be concerned that the new battery from CA might not be a true equivalent?

Did they say what was wrong the the existing ESS?

How many miles do you have on the ESS? Did you know what your CAC was in the summer? From the numbers your gave the refurbished one seems to be ok.

I assume you asked about the Roadster 3.0 ESS did they say anything?
 
I didn't push too hard as I'm planning on pulling the trigger on the 3.0 upgrade anyways. #105 is a CPO so the battery swap is covered under warranty. As long as it charges up past 159 I'll be happy. I've got about 17,000 miles left on my CPO warranty so that's all it has to last assuming 3.0 shows up before then.

The sensor in the ESS that determines if there is moisture in the battery has a fault that is causing it to falsely give the error message. They confirmed that the battery is dry but have to crack it open to fix it. It will have to go back to CA to have that done.
 
I didn't push too hard as I'm planning on pulling the trigger on the 3.0 upgrade anyways. #105 is a CPO so the battery swap is covered under warranty. As long as it charges up past 159 I'll be happy. I've got about 17,000 miles left on my CPO warranty so that's all it has to last assuming 3.0 shows up before then.

The sensor in the ESS that determines if there is moisture in the battery has a fault that is causing it to falsely give the error message. They confirmed that the battery is dry but have to crack it open to fix it. It will have to go back to CA to have that done.

Just a heads up - it may not charge to full potential right away. It was several weeks before my replaced battery completely balanced and charged fully. I think the first time I did a standard charge on my replaced battery it was something like 115 miles - and eventually was charging at 183 miles. (But it was hard to not react to that. :) )
 
Sounds like there have been a lot more Roadster battery pack replacements than I had thought. I wonder what percentage of Roadster owners have refurbished packs.

Mine gave a Battery Needs Service warning a couple of months ago. The SC told me the error was in a sensor too, but my car is not under warranty and it was going to cost $5000 for the refurbished pack. I decided to wait for the 3.0 upgrade no matter what happens with the pack. The SC tech said the battery was well balanced and the warning comes and goes and the Roadster is perfectly drivable with the warning. In fact in the last couple of weeks I have not seen the warning at all. I think it is temperature based so I started charging the car immediately after driving it instead of on the timer and so far that has worked to keep the warning away. Spring temperatures may make it go away completely no matter when I charge it.
 
They have a habit of replacing the battery even when it just needs a minor repair. It's easier to just swap it out than to send it off to California to be fixed and then shipped back. It seems that batteries are replaced much more often than they actually need to be.
 
They were very quick to replace the battery given that my car is a CPO and under warranty. I would have opted to skip the $5000 refurb pack as well as it wasn't a critical issue. Perhaps my ESS shell will find itself as a new 3.0 pack for someone?? Let's hope! It sounded like they had quite a few refurb packs available with varying CAC. They made a point to get me the ESS with the closest CAC to mine that wasn't lower. It just so happened to be 146 vs my 136
 
Just a heads up - it may not charge to full potential right away. It was several weeks before my replaced battery completely balanced and charged fully. I think the first time I did a standard charge on my replaced battery it was something like 115 miles - and eventually was charging at 183 miles. (But it was hard to not react to that. :) )

Was it just the range estimate that was 115mi or was this the true range of the vehicle at that point? In other words, did it display 115 but you still got normal expected range or were you dealing with limited range for a time?
 
What should these brick voltage limits be within?
When fully charging in standard mode I get range around 255 km when it is 7 degrees Celcius. The lowest brick, brick #28 is then 4.02 Volts while the max is 4.05 (mean is 4.04).
I think brick #28 has been the lowest brick for at least one year.

But when battery capasity is around 50 %, the difference is less, and brick #28 is sometimes not the lowest brick when driving/accelerating.

Does this indicate that brick #28 will go bad soon? If not, I can live with slightly less range.

Is there anyone that sell working battery sheets for Roadster?
And are there instructions somewhere or is there anyone in Europe (or elsewhere) that can do the job of swapping sheets?
 
It is not the lowest brick you need to worry about, it is the highest one. You need to pay attention to when the battery is almost empty, not full. The brick that runs out of juice first is your worst brick. When the same brick has the highest voltage when charged and the lowest when discharged, you are seeing the beginning of a problem. The middle range (around 3.7V) most of the bricks will be the same voltage for quite awhile.
 
It is not the lowest brick you need to worry about, it is the highest one. You need to pay attention to when the battery is almost empty, not full. The brick that runs out of juice first is your worst brick. When the same brick has the highest voltage when charged and the lowest when discharged, you are seeing the beginning of a problem.

Interesting, would like to know where you have this information from as the highest brick/highest voltage part is new to me. Thanks!
 
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As the battery loses capacity, it will charge faster, reaching the charge high voltage (4.1V in standard mode) cutoff first, and will also discharge faster, reaching the low voltage (empty) level first as well. Also if one or more off the cells in a brick have the fuse wires blown, the capacity is lower as well.