How to Jack up an S not using jackpoint Stands

Brightonuk · Jan 25, 2015

I am looking to paint the calipers which look straight forward enough but how to jack the car and not use jackpoint jack stands (did not want to spend $600+ for stands I will use once)

The only other option I see is using four floor jacks (With hockey Pucks on the four jack points) but that is not the safest way to suspend the car for an extended time and I need to let the caliper paint cure for 24 hours before I can apply the decals, then I need another couple of hours to apply the clear coat and let that dry.

Can I use jack stands under the front and rear axels?

Any other suggestions?

rtz · Jan 25, 2015

jordanthompson · Jan 26, 2015

need to check the weight restrictions, but this is pretty clever :
Great Idea for lifting a car - YouTube

Brightonuk · Jan 26, 2015

But you cant remove the wheels with that system

The lift points are fine with a low clearance jack but the issue is how to support the car one it is up on the jack, you cant fit a jack stand under the car while it is up on a floor jack.

A member close to me has two jackpoint Stands so I may have to do the front then the back which should be OK as long as I don't waste any time (The paint has a working time of about 4 hours as I am in FL it is a little warmer than you guys right now)

Another option is Powder Coating $75 each caliper x 6 + $50 per hat + $160 for removing the calipers reinstalling them and bleeding the brakes I don't know if that extra cost is worth it as painting with the G2 system has great reviews and is a fraction of power coating cost.

roblab · Jan 26, 2015

Brightonuk said:
I am looking to paint the calipers which look straight forward enough but how to jack the car and not use jackpoint jack stands (did not want to spend $600+ for stands I will use once)

The only other option I see is using four floor jacks (With hockey Pucks on the four jack points) but that is not the safest way to suspend the car for an extended time and I need to let the caliper paint cure for 24 hours before I can apply the decals, then I need another couple of hours to apply the clear coat and let that dry.

Can I use jack stands under the front and rear axels?

Any other suggestions?

Sure. Using one jack:

Jack up each tire as you need

Remove wheel

Paint caliper

Reinstall wheel- don't need to torque wheel yet

Do next tire

Etc.

The wheels don't touch the calipers. Let them dry.

Repeat to install decals.

Torque down lug nuts before driving

AMPUP · Jan 26, 2015

roblab said:
Sure. Using one jack:

Jack up each tire as you need

Remove wheel

Paint caliper

Reinstall wheel- don't need to torque wheel yet

Do next tire

Etc.

The wheels don't touch the calipers. Let them dry.

Repeat to install decals.

Torque down lug nuts before driving

That is my plan in the spring.... I would suggest you power-wash the calipers with the wheels on and let dry prior to starting the work, that way you can immediately mask and paint when removing each wheel.

Brightonuk · Jan 26, 2015

Yep I think I will follow robs advice and save the $800++

This is the photo the powder Coating place sent me to convince me that Powder Coating is the way to go

They do look pretty awesome

AudubonB · Jan 26, 2015

My input is that Roblab's idea is the best; esp. because to answer another question of yours: NO, I do not believe you can use jack stands under the axles - you simply do not have access to them.

(On edit: - computer hadn't been updating - seems my reply was a bit delayed!)

AMPUP · Jan 26, 2015

Brightonuk said:
Yep I think I will follow robs advice and save the $800++

This is the photo the powder Coating place sent me to convince me that Powder Coating is the way to go
View attachment 70319

They do look pretty awesome

So how will the plan work with powder coating? don't you have to remove the actual caliper? I assume this would mean more than one day of jacking up etc? just curious how powder coating would work vs using the G2 system?

randompersonx · Jan 26, 2015

I was always told not to do long work while on jacks as they can lose pressure and fall (either slowly, or suddenly). Only use a jack for quick jobs (like changing a tire), or putting on a jack stand.

The rule is of course much more important if you are doing work where you will get under the car, but it's still obviously a pain in the ass if the car drops without a tire, even if someone isn't under it.

On the other hand, if there is no center jack point, and no access to the axle, I'm not really sure how you would get the car on jackstands anyway.

tga · Jan 26, 2015

On the first gen Mini's (02-06), you can put a 2x4 between the jack points, lift the entire side, place stands under the 2 jack points, and lower the car unto the stands. Repeat for the other side. There's enough strength in the side to support the weight of the car, distributed over a wide area:

rtz said:

What does "safe stabilization for a side-resting Model S" mean? Maybe the Mini trick works? Check with your service center before trying!

jordanthompson said:
need to check the weight restrictions, but this is pretty clever :
Great Idea for lifting a car - YouTube

After moving the jacks under the tire and raising it further, you could lower it onto a jackstand, rather than locking the wheel support in an extended position.

All in all, Roblab's suggestion may be the easiest, unless you know someone with a lift.

Brightonuk · Jan 26, 2015

Now I am thinking that powder coating looks reeeeally good
Dam............. The wife would kill me but it does look reeeeeally good

And in gloss white (Just to be different) with black lettering and logos (Which are coming) would look really good.

Crap.....OK I will rationalize this .. Center console in CF $800............. way to expensive........... redo all the calipers and hats $850.........worth it (in my mind)...........Three weeks of grief from the wife for spending $850 on painting calipers.........??

Bill D · Jan 26, 2015

When jacking around under your Tesla, be sure you mind its bollocks.:smile:

artsci · Jan 26, 2015

AMPUP said:
So how will the plan work with powder coating? don't you have to remove the actual caliper? I assume this would mean more than one day of jacking up etc? just curious how powder coating would work vs using the G2 system?

To powder coat calipers they have to be completely removed and you know what a relative PIA that is. I've done it before and frankly my impression that the epoxy solution is almost as durable and a lot easier.

- - - Updated - - -

tga said:
On the first gen Mini's (02-06), you can put a 2x4 between the jack points, lift the entire side, place stands under the 2 jack points, and lower the car unto the stands. Repeat for the other side. There's enough strength in the side to support the weight of the car, distributed over a wide area:

What does "safe stabilization for a side-resting Model S" mean? Maybe the Mini trick works? Check with your service center before trying!

After moving the jacks under the tire and raising it further, you could lower it onto a jackstand, rather than locking the wheel support in an extended position.

All in all, Roblab's suggestion may be the easiest, unless you know someone with a lift.

I don't think the jack stands in the photo are robost enough for the Tesla, which probably is at least double the weight of a Mini. For safety's sake always check the jack stand weight rating.

linkster · Jan 26, 2015

artsci said:
To powder coat calipers they have to be completely removed

....and completely dis-assembled since the heat during the powder baking/adhering (post coating) process will melt the elastomeric seals.

EarlyAdopter · Jan 26, 2015

tga said:
What does "safe stabilization for a side-resting Model S" mean? Maybe the Mini trick works? Check with your service center before trying!

It means it's a safe place for first responders to use to brace a car that's rolled on its side. It is not a safe place to support the full weight of the car.

Brightonuk · Jan 26, 2015

OK guys as much as I like the look of the Powder painting is the way to go

One last question as far a clear coat goes G2 advises against using any due to the fact it can yellow and as I am going with white caliper's this is a real concern.

Any thoughts on using a sealant such as HydrO2 / CQuarts / EXOv2 or another protectant in place of clear coating the calipers.

artsci · Jan 27, 2015

linkster said:
....and completely dis-assembled since the heat during the powder baking/adhering (post coating) process will melt the elastomeric seals.

And bleed the brake lines when they're reattached, etc., etc.

Brightonuk · Jan 27, 2015

Na Im going with the G2 Paint as you said etc etc = 3-4 days down time $600 to powder Coat $360 to remove reinstall the caliper's bleed the brakes and store the car for two days and add another @ $100 a day storage.

It was a nice thought but just too much aggravation an expense, once I complete this project I will post photos as I do not believe anyone has gone for white caliper's

I think CQuartz to seal the decals I had excellent results using it on the body and it seems to have a better than average high temp limit (Guess I will find out next time I track the car) :scared:

scottm · Jan 28, 2015

Here's how you jack a car with air suspension option:

Park with car in very high mode.
Place blocks under all four jack points, blocks just high enough to squeeze in there.
Put car in normal height and all 4 wheels lift.
Take off all four wheels.

..just an idea.

How to Jack up an S not using jackpoint Stands

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