Hood Panel Removal

What does the the underside of the carbon fiber replacement look like? Pics would help us make come up with some ideas.

smicker said:

Does anyone have instructions or tips on removal of the hood panels (for replacement with CF units)? It looks like the bottom ones have some sort of hard plastic gasket while the large top panel doesn't.

The panels themselves have threaded posts but there doesn't appear to a corresponding nut on the other side, just an extrusion.

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I've been wondering the exact same thing, for the same reason.

At first I assumed the gaskets were double-sided adhesive pads for body attachments but it's a little too hard for that. Have you actually seen the threaded posts on the underside of the panels?

My best guess is that the support arms are possibly flame retardant, that they heat them up to melt the glue holding down the CF louvers and rear panel. Then re-apply the glue, and insert the new one. Again that's a guess. Looking at the new part will be key. I have a friend who has a damaged hood so we can play on that with heat if need be finding out what works if he gives me permission.

I had the exterior carbon fiber kit installed at the Tesla factory last year when I purchased my Roadster. I had no idea, but they had to have a body shop CUT the original pieces off the black frame part in your pictures above. They then bonded the new carbon fiber ones onto those same black frames. They did do a nice job and actually saved the original blue hood strips for me. The undersides were scratched up a bit from the saw blade. You would think they were pressed or bolted on, but no, they are glued on.

I wanted to be able to go back and forth from color to carbon, but it is a permanent change. Of course all of the rest of the carbon fiber body pieces are bolt on.

smicker said:

Thanks for the responses. Below is a picture of the post on the new CF units. The white area around the post is very rough--the resin has been scraped away, perhaps to give the glue something to bond to?

In any event this doesn't look like a do-it-yourself job.

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I would be foolish enough to do it myself. First I would cut the old ones off like the body shop did. A Dremel or similar with a fine saw blade to cut through the plastic, then switch to a cut-off wheel for metal to cut through the bolt. I wouldn't put the new ones on the same way. I would cut the raised extrusions off of the frame. Then thread a nut onto the end of the stud coming from the hood panel.

hcsharp said:

I would be foolish enough to do it myself. First I would cut the old ones off like the body shop did. A Dremel or similar with a fine saw blade to cut through the plastic, then switch to a cut-off wheel for metal to cut through the bolt. I wouldn't put the new ones on the same way. I would cut the raised extrusions off of the frame. Then thread a nut onto the end of the stud coming from the hood panel.

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By contrast, I would pay someone to wrap it in 3M Carbon Fiber wrap instead and enjoy it for the couple
years the wrap lasts, but, alas, Henry is far more skilled than I. :smile:

So how did it come off?

Did you only heat the frame? Or up on the bottom of the CF parts? Do you have pics of the underside of your old parts? And then did you epoxy the old one on?

Looks like a scary job to do from the pics.

smicker said:

I don't recommend anyone try this themselves--take it to a body shop. It took about 3 hours of heat gun work to get the large panel off, and I gave up trying not to scratch the paint after about ten minutes. The smaller pieces were relatively easy, coming off in just a few minutes. The large cf panel posts were off by 1/4"(!) so I hadto Drexel part of the support frame away so it would seat properly.

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Did you just heat it up and pry it off? Why was the large piece so much harder? Was it just because it had more places that it was glued?

Thanks for posting this.

Thanks for documenting and congrats pulling it off. Yes, see if the goop holds... not sure on the shelf life and how well it deals with being in the sun/cooled off many times. If you do find its not giving you the bond you need buy a tube of Sikaflex 252:

Sika Sikaflex 252 Polyurethane Elastic Adhesive Caulk, 10.5 oz Cartridge, Black: Amazon.com: Industrial Scientific

Its seriously like welding the bond is so strong. I use it on my RV and anywhere that fiberglass panels need to be bonded to any surface. Make sure to use latex gloves with it and have some olive oil around to help get it off you if you manage to do so. Also make sure you clamp down or put some heavy weight on what your bonding to get the best results.

Sika 252 SikaFlex One Part Polyurethane Adhesive
A high viscous, high strength adhesive, this product can replace rivets, screws, welds, and other mechanical fasteners. Seals and bonds in one step. Available in black, white, gray.

What did your wife say about you using her iorning board as a sawhorse?? :scared:

1000º heat? That's enough to melt the epoxy that holds the carbon fiber together, and not too far below the melting point of aluminum! Surprised you didn't melt or warp the frame.