Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Tesla Roadster Battery Care

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
I sent some questions to Tesla Motors asking about strategies for extending the life of my battery pack. I was looking for more tips beyond just plugging in and recharging to standard mode each day.

I received a very detailed response from Dan Myggen and he gave me permission to post it here.

For simplicity’s sake, I will refer to all SOC (State Of Charge) numbers as a percentage of a full (100%) charge. I cannot provide exact percentages, as there are many variables which can cause these numbers to vary slightly, however, I will get as close as I can.

When plugging in a nearly empty car that is set to Storage mode, the charge will generally stop at around 20%. The car will then settle into its normal Storage mode rhythm, topping up and discharging between 10% and 50% as the car sees fit. Oftentimes it will keep a tighter envelope based on parameters that I am not aware of.

Most important to remember is that Storage mode is not intended to be a driving mode. This charge setting is primarily meant to optimize battery life while the car is under storage conditions for two weeks or more.

Storage mode does not attempt to balance the pack, and you will cause an imbalance in the pack by driving and charging in this mode regularly.

This will penalize you when you do occasionally charge the car fully in the other modes, as you will not have the full range of the car available to you until the car has a chance to balance its battery. Additionally, the car’s range will not be as accurate if driven while in Storage mode vs. having charged it in Standard mode after storing the car, then driving it.

Allowing the car to sit plugged in after it has finished charging in Standard mode automatically balances the pack, and it may take a few rounds of this to bring an imbalanced pack back to its full potential after many partial charges. This is one of the major reasons we recommend keeping the car in Standard mode whenever possible. Partial charges in any mode, while not on their own bad for the battery, do not give the car an opportunity to balance its battery, and over time can prevent you from accessing the car’s full range potential.

When balanced, Standard mode charges the car to about 87%, with Range and Performance modes getting the car to about 97%. These two percentages are very much affected by the balance between bricks in the battery. An imbalanced pack will not fill up all the way in any mode, nor will it be able to discharge as far. Additionally, the range predictions will not be as accurate.

Your voltages are about right.
4.10 volts = full standard mode (187-195 ideal miles)
4.15 volts = full range mode
4.20 volts = maximum of the cells that we never touch

As you may know, there is much more to it than just using voltage to calculate range with Lithium batteries. This is something that is incredibly complicated, and not something that I am qualified to discuss in detail, as I do not have the full picture.

It is important to remember that SOC is not the only factor in maximizing battery life. For instance most lithium batteries are shipped at around 30-50% SOC in consumer electronics, and part of the reasoning is that they are less susceptible to damage from extreme temperatures at these charge levels. It is also safer to store them at these levels. Part of the benefit of Storage mode is that there is less work required from the HVAC system to keep the battery happy and safe, and therefore, less energy is consumed while stored.

We chose ~90% as a Standard full charge level because it offers most of the longevity benefit of keeping the car at a lower state of charge, while still allowing a high degree of autonomy. I understand that you are interested in taking extra steps to maximize your battery’s life, so I do have some suggestions for you.

I would not recommend that you continue to use Storage mode as a means of maintaining a lower state of charge. As I explained earlier, this mode is not optimized for this type of use.

Think of battery degradation this way. It is very much a function of time spent at voltage and temperature. For instance, you do not want to charge a car all the way in performance mode, and then let it sit in the sun all day. Between the higher thermal limits and the high SOC, you are causing the battery a relatively high amount of degradation .In fact, the car will eventually allow itself to discharge to Standard levels if left in Performance mode to prevent inadvertent damage to the battery. If you start driving right away after charging in Performance or Range Mode, and don’t let it sit, you would minimize the damage incurred, as the time spent at these extremes is an important part of the calculation.

Similarly, if you top off to full in Standard mode, then jump in the car right away and bring the SOC down quickly, you will minimize the small amount of degradation that occurs at ~90%.

If you prefer to keep a lower average SOC in an attempt to maximize the life of your battery, I would instead suggest that you stay in Standard mode and utilize the Roadster’s built in charge timer and current limiting options to find an average SOC that works for you. For instance, try starting your charge at a time that allows the car to top off to a level you are comfortable with right before you need to leave. Alternately, you can use the Current limiting function to adjust the amount of time it takes the car reaches a target SOC, or even a combination of these two options. The car will remember the settings you select based on your location, so once you find something that works for your commute, you can set it and forget it.

Just remember that the car does benefit from being allowed to sit fully charged in Standard mode, and should be allowed to do so frequently, especially if being used on a daily basis. Leaving the car plugged in in Standard mode after it is done charging will initiate this balancing program automatically. This doesn’t take much time, 30 minutes or so should do. It may take several of these balancing cycles to bring the car back to a balanced state if it has become imbalanced, which is something that a lack of regular Standard mode top ups and subsequent balancing cycles can induce.

It would therefore be a good idea to set the car to “Charge on Plug In” instead of “Charge at X time” in the charge timing menu for at least a few Standard mode charges per week to keep the pack balanced. There are simply too many variables for me to be able to predict how often you would need to do this, and we do not have a recommended procedure for alternate desired average SOC levels.

I hope this helps answer your questions, and gives you a better idea of how to maximize battery life under your driving conditions.

Regards,

Dan Myggen
 
Last edited:
This is what I have started doing based on my research and talking with Tesla Motors.

I would instead suggest that you stay in Standard mode and utilize the Roadster’s built in charge timer and current limiting options to find an average SOC that works for you. For instance, try starting your charge at a time that allows the car to top off to a level you are comfortable with right before you need to leave.

I set my Tesla to recharge at 6 am so that it finishes and balances right before I leave the house each day. That way my car spends more of it's time during a 24 hour day significantly below full standard. It is only briefly at that 87% charge level each day. The goal should be for the car to finish charging and balancing about 30 minutes before you leave in the morning.

If you plug your car in each night when you get home (perhaps 6 pm) then it is likely topped off quickly and then spends all night at the full standard charge level. This is not a good thing. We want to minimize the amount of time the cells are fully charged.

If I know I am not going to be driving my Tesla for a few days, then I will just leave it in standard mode at something less than full standard. I am fine with allowing it to get down to 90-150 ideal miles without recharging.
 
Last edited:
Thanks James. Fascinating. Sounds like 90% SOC Standard mode is pretty safe for the battery. So in other words, using Standard Mode and just plugging it in whenever is a pretty good strategy. And it happens to be the default for most people. That's good news.

I'd be interested to know just how much better your strategy is compared with the mindless strategy I stated above. In other words, what's the difference in pack life?
 
I'd be interested to know just how much better your strategy is compared with the mindless strategy I stated above. In other words, what's the difference in pack life?

I read a study about these laptop batteries that quoted the loss of capacity per year when kept at certain temperatures and charge levels.

When kept fully charged at 40 degrees celcius then the loss in capacity approaches 15% to 20% per year.

When kept closer to 50% SOC and at 25 degrees celcius then the loss in capacity is about 4% per year.

When kept at 50% SOC and 10 degrees celcius then the loss in capacity is about 2% per year.

If I recall, Tesla states that they expect the average user to be at 65% of their original capacity after 100,000 miles. I am hoping that my strategy keeps my battery pack with much higher capacity over time.

It is an easy change to make. Just select a specific time in the morning for the charging process to start. 5 am is likely a good target for most people.
 
Registration Statement on Form S-1

Risk Factors. This section typically has the worst case scenario to warn potential investors. So this might be worst case predictions to cover themselves.

Page 16 (top)

The range of our electric vehicles on a single charge declines over time which may negatively influence potential customers’ decisions whether to purchase our vehicles.

The range of our electric vehicles on a single charge declines principally as a function of usage, time, and charging patterns. For example, a customer’s use of their Tesla vehicle as well as the frequency with which they charge the battery of their Tesla vehicle can result in additional deterioration of the battery’s ability to hold a charge. We currently expect that our battery pack will retain approximately 60-65% of its ability to hold its initial charge after approximately 100,000 miles or 7 years, which will result in a decrease to the vehicle’s initial range. Such battery deterioration and the related decrease in range may negatively influence potential customer decisions whether to purchase our vehicles, which may harm our ability to market and sell our vehicles.
 
Last edited:
Well geez, that's disappointing. When I bought I was thinking 80% after 100k miles or 7 years was pretty good, and that I'd be able to let it go longer, probably down to 70% or so before I'd start to care. Now I find out that will happen BEFORE 100k miles and 7 years. Hmph!

Maybe someone will post some suggestions on how to make the batteries last longer. Oh wait! :)
 
So knowing the best strategy for long term health of the battery pack, it seems easy enough to make a few common sense changes to daily charging habits. This could easily improve your odds of having 80%+ of your original capacity after 100,000 miles.
 
I would instead suggest that you stay in Standard mode and utilize the Roadster’s built in charge timer and current limiting options to find an average SOC that works for you. For instance, try starting your charge at a time that allows the car to top off to a level you are comfortable with right before you need to leave.

Why don't they just change the software so that, in addition to the charge timer and the current limit, the user is allowed to set a target SOC.
 
Why don't they just change the software so that, in addition to the charge timer and the current limit, the user is allowed to set a target SOC.
Is there much benefit, if I charged only to 75% instead of 90%? It would nice to have quantifiable comparisons of the benefits of these things. Something more than just it's better. If I get another 2 months of battery life after 7 years, it's not worth the trouble for me to worry about it. If it's another 2 years of battery life, well that's a different story.
 
Is there much benefit, if I charged only to 75% instead of 90%? It would nice to have quantifiable comparisons of the benefits of these things. Something more than just it's better. If I get another 2 months of battery life after 7 years, it's not worth the trouble for me to worry about it. If it's another 2 years of battery life, well that's a different story.

I think it will likely result in you having about 10%-15% more battery capacity after 100,000 miles. If the average Tesla owner will have 60%-65% after 100,000 mile by merely charging in standard mode every day (plug and forget), then the obsessive compulsive Tesla owner (that would be me) should be able to improve on that number.

The basic guidelines on laptop cells is a good guide. A few percentage points of preserved capacity per year can add up significantly over 5-7 years.
 
Why don't they just change the software so that, in addition to the charge timer and the current limit, the user is allowed to set a target SOC.

Excellent idea for a firmware update. They need an advanced user screen with some of these options.

Ted, I know you are reading this. Why can't we get a screen to set a user defined charge stopping point? Either by SOC or ideal miles?

Or perhaps give us a lower default point to stop charging. Perhaps 3.9 or 4.0 volts.
 
Last edited:
Is there much benefit, if I charged only to 75% instead of 90%? It would nice to have quantifiable comparisons of the benefits of these things. Something more than just it's better. If I get another 2 months of battery life after 7 years, it's not worth the trouble for me to worry about it. If it's another 2 years of battery life, well that's a different story.
Yeah, some quantitative data would be nice. But certainly, such an option in the firmware would be a heck of a lot less trouble than setting the charge time and rate in the hope of interrupting the cycle at the desired SOC, as has been suggested. Would also give the system a chance to balance the cells.

As James suggests, it should be an advanced option. If customers want it, they should just do it, unless there is a compelling reason not to.
 
Timed charging

I decided to try to set my Roadster so that it starts charging late at night rather than as soon as I get home, with the thought that that way it won't be sitting around at a full standard-mode charge all night. The idea wasn't to try to get it to a partial charge, just to have it start later.

I've never used timed charging mode before, so maybe I did something wrong. I got home, parked the car and set it to start charging at 4AM. I plugged it in and it started charging immediately. I got back into the car and again set it to charge at 4AM. It stopped charging and put up a note saying "scheduled charging at 4AM" or something like that.

This morning, I got to the car and it hadn't charged. It had a screen that said "plug in cable" or something, even though it was plugged in. I switched it to "charge on plug-in" and it started charging, but it only added 2 ideal miles in the time it took me to take the garbage to the curb.

Luckily, I have enough charge to get me through the day, so it's no big deal. Still, it's annoying.

Has anyone else had problems like this? Any suggestions?
 
It could happen (possibly buggy firmware) when you change the time of charging or stop and restart charging (sliding the grey switch on the connector off/on) that it won't "take". In that case the safest method is to actually disconnect from the port and most importantly close the cover. Re-open after a few seconds and start over. Better yet, make all the adjustments you want while the cover is closed then re-connect.

Edit: don't know why it started for 2 miles then stopped (unless you were "full" or in storage mode, or another bug symptom). But closing the cover basically tells the firmware to "let's start over".
 
Last edited:
I understand that the car needs to be plugged in in order to perform cell balancing, but if I'm reading correctly it only seems to do this after a Standard charge.

Why not after any (non Range/Performance) charge?

I guess we need more charge settings and names to go with them:

Range / Performance - Standard - Medium Commute - Short Commute - Economy - Obsessive/Compulsive - Storage

:biggrin: