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Formula for Roadster 1.5 pricing?

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Local owner is considering selling a Roadster 1.5. Original owner, 3k miles, outside is great other than a scrape on the rear bumper. One battery sheet is bad (verified by Tesla service center) so the car charges on 110, but not 240. Owner purchased the battery replacement plan, though, which as I understand it means you could get a free battery replacement at 8 years, correct?

Are there features that I should be looking for that affect the final price significantly? Just poking around here in the forums, it seems like $65k might be a fair price for this car if the battery was in complete working order. How much does having a battery issue affect the value? How much does having the battery replacement plan help offset that?

Since I have a Model S, the Roadster would not be my daily driver, so the fact that it takes a long time to charge is probably something I could live with for another two years until the battery replacement kicked in. It would also be nice if Tesla allowed the battery replacement plan to offset replacement cost for 400 mile battery option, especially if you waited past the 8 year mark for the swap.
 
Local owner is considering selling a Roadster 1.5. Original owner, 3k miles, outside is great other than a scrape on the rear bumper. One battery sheet is bad (verified by Tesla service center) so the car charges on 110, but not 240. Owner purchased the battery replacement plan, though, which as I understand it means you could get a free battery replacement at 8 years, correct?

Are there features that I should be looking for that affect the final price significantly? Just poking around here in the forums, it seems like $65k might be a fair price for this car if the battery was in complete working order. How much does having a battery issue affect the value? How much does having the battery replacement plan help offset that?

Since I have a Model S, the Roadster would not be my daily driver, so the fact that it takes a long time to charge is probably something I could live with for another two years until the battery replacement kicked in. It would also be nice if Tesla allowed the battery replacement plan to offset replacement cost for 400 mile battery option, especially if you waited past the 8 year mark for the swap.

From what I remember battery sheet for 2.0 from what I was told was like 4k-8k depending who you talk too, though I never did get an actual quote for price.

I'm surprised the 1.5 roadster is even running with one battery sheet bad, as BMB and BMS would freak out. Do you have the logs?

Since the car has the pre-purchased battery replacement plan I think it completely offset the bad sheet in my view, as in a few years you get a new battery.
 
I don't have access to any logs, but my understanding that the car will attempt to charge on 240V but pretty quickly triggers the breaker in the owner's house. The service center explained why that was, but I'm not sure I understood the answer. While the 1 sheet is 'bad', it does fully charge under 110V. Does that imply there are degrees of 'bad'?

Separate from the battery issue, are there suspension options for 1.5s? VIN is x0467.
 
I don't have access to any logs, but my understanding that the car will attempt to charge on 240V but pretty quickly triggers the breaker in the owner's house. The service center explained why that was, but I'm not sure I understood the answer. While the 1 sheet is 'bad', it does fully charge under 110V. Does that imply there are degrees of 'bad'?

There shouldn't be any correlation charging 120v vs 240v and having a weak battery bricks/sheets. Unless it's to the point where you can only drive the car a mile or two. If the Roadster when charged up does it drive normally? Can you give full throttle without issues? if yes, then the sheet/brick(s) are likely just significantly weaker then the rest of the pack.

Separate from the battery issue, are there suspension options for 1.5s? VIN is x0467.
I thought the 1.5 had all the same suspension options as the 2.0/2.5.
 
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How can a Tesla-verified "bad battery sheet" not trigger the extended battery replacement warranty that you say that Roadster has? Maybe I don't completely understand what "replacement plan" you are referring to.

If Tesla will not repair that battery under warranty then it seems to me that the value of the car is far less ($10K or more less) than a comparable Roadster with a fully functioning battery.

On 110V what is the ideal range shown for a standard charge?

You need the logs to check the battery CAC. The owner should provide you with the logs. If he won't provide them, I would pass on that car.

If Tesla isn't covering the battery repair under the extended warranty you say the car has, it seems to me that there is some real risk in purchasing the car at anything over $50K.

And I wouldn't want a Roadster that can only charge on 110V, it is painfully slow.

There is a suspension option for all Roadsters, see Tesla Gear Shop Adjustable Suspension Kit
 
@ecarfan: My understanding is the "battery replacement" isn't really a warranty. It is a prepayment for a battery replacement in 8 years. Given the battery still charges (I think the range said 190 when I drove it, not sure if that was standard or range), I think Tesla says the problem is really something else, something that isn't under warranty. However, the service center said that when the replacement arrives, it would have the component fixed that resolves the charging issue.

Thanks for pointing out that suspension kit, yes, this car didn't have that for sure.

@spaceballs: Acceleration was still good, although not as fast as a 2.5 I had previously driven.

One last question: how does one get the logs? Goes it require the OVMS stuff be installed? Or is there a standard, out of the box method of doing that?
 
One last question: how does one get the logs? Goes it require the OVMS stuff be installed? Or is there a standard, out of the box method of doing that?

See this post Kevin Sharpe's decreased Roadster range - Page 36 on how to get the logs on a USB memory stick.

- - - Updated - - -

@spaceballs: Acceleration was still good, although not as fast as a 2.5 I had previously driven.
Sounds like battery sheet isn't bad, maybe just lower capacity, USB logs would show how much it has. Or do a long drive from full range charge to near empty.
 
The value of the roadster is the $39,000.oo battery.

EDIT - Would you buy a super fast Corvette with 7 good cylinders and one bad one? Same concept I feel with the battery.

EDIT - It also has charging issues. You need a TESLA dealership to fully evaluate the car and then tell you what exactly is going on and how much to fix it. This BB is not a substitute to a real sit down. It may cost you for them to do this, but it is worth every penny.

I would PASS or PUNT on this car. This car and its battery pack will screw you. This sounds like a BAD deal unless the car costs 20K and you will spend 39k for the new battery pack.

There is a Tesla CPO for sale in Long Island, NY. It has been the property of that showroom. I'm not even sure if it was ever registered.

That might make a better choice.

I posted on Sunday about "Tesla CPO in Syosset, LI, NY".

I would avoid the car you are looking at like the plague AND consider the car at the Syosset dealership, as a CPO has factory car and battery 3 year warranty.

Just my $0.02.
 
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It sounds like there's not enough information to decipher what's really going on with that Roadster. If its going to be your first Roadster it might not be the best one for you for that there are some uncertainties. It does have the battery upgrade plan, so key is when is that valid? Now, 5 months down the Road, 2 years down the Road. That's the Risk. Risk of having something happen that could shut the car down and then its a waiting game. With the technical knowledge I and others have gained from the forum over time, there'd be those like myself who'd definitely make an offer on it. The battery replacement option down the road makes it attractive. But for a newbie it may be better to pick up a Roadster that has Tesla verified clean bill of health from the start.
 
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Battery replacement plan lets you upgrade at 7 years for free, at 6 years for $2K (I believe), at 5 years for $4K. Or, if you wait until 8 years, they pay you $1K, 9 years $2K, 10 years $3K. The program expires after 10 years, so you replace it then and collect your $3K.

VIN 467 is more than 4 years old, so it's out of warranty unless the owner bought the extended warranties.

Set the car to charge at 12 amps, and then open the charge port door, plug-in and attempt to charge at 240volts. Does that still pop the breaker?

To pull current logs, stick a 2GB or less USB stick into the USB socket under the dash, in the center. There are tools you can find here to decode the logs and report your CAC and other things, but old data will be summarized only.

This is the kind of car you buy at a big discount - like tens of thousands of dollars discount. Sheet replacements aren't cheap, but I believe they're under $10K normally.

Still, it's a 1.5, so it's noisier and the suspension sucks and it uses the motor to charge and the AC isn't strong enough and it's got that Lotus tray instead of a proper glove box, etc., etc.I know some people prefer the 1.5s, but I personally don't get that at all.
 
Having owned a 1.5 and a 2.5 I can say that each one has their benefits. I felt that the 1.5 had more torque upon pedal to the metal and pulling my head back to the headrest! I loved the gearshift knob and the front nose:)
The 2.5 I bought with the upgraded suspension (AWESOME), double din dash/rear camera which I find more appealing than the single din but you can get that replaced if you like.
Bottom line they are BOTH a blast to drive!
 
I suspect that the breaker blowing is more likely a problem with his house than the car.

I would not hesitate to buy this car. I have 472. I paid $65K without a battery prepurchase and with a hard top - but that was over 2 years ago. Mine had 13K miles on it and a bit of warranty left. The low mileage and mileage battery replacement probably add $14-15K to the value. That said - I still think you can get closer to $60K.
 
Quick question about the Tesla Roadster High Power Wall Connector. The owner is including this with the car, but it is still attached to his house. Can I uninstall this myself? If so, what is required? Just turn off the breaker and unscrew it?

If the HPC goes with a 1.5, it is probably one of the Clipper Creek units that is very similar to the current CS-100. See http://clippercreek.com/store/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/CS-100-User-Manual.pdf for a manual for the current CS-100. Be sure to have some Torx drivers along with your normal tools. After you turn off the circuit breaker, there is both a latch on the bottom and a Torx screw that you need to remove to open the HPC. To be nice, bring along some wire nuts or at least some electrical tape to cover the exposed ends of the wires when you are done removing the HPC. For safety and to meet code the owner of the location should put a junction box over the free ends of the wires and cover the ends with wire nuts.

Good Luck!
 
I cannot believe you're actually buying this car when there are so many better ones out there. Your money I guess.

:/

Sorry but I personally like the 1.5's better as they are truly the start and built quite solidly. Also I have been noticing there are few Roadster for sale and the prices seem to be on the rise which is a nice thing for all of us. The battery warranty by itself is likely worth north of $20,000 and it will not be long before the 1.5 owners are in a position to cash in on it.
 
It sounds like there's not enough information to decipher what's really going on with that Roadster....

I agree with you and I would be concerned that the 240V issue might not be the battery but the PEM...also quite expensive.
Which is probably not under warranty anymore, unless extended warranty were purchased after 3 years.

So my advice before buying it is: have it inspected by Tesla so THEY tell you what is really wrong with the car and you know what you're getting into...not just speculations.
I bought a used roadster and Tesla send me the last service check that had been done in the previous month (with the owner's blessing). It puts ones mind at ease!

If you suspect the house breaker to be at fault for the 240V charging, that's easy to check if the owner as a J1772 adapter.
Just locate some other 240V charger around compatible with J1772 and go and try it out!

My 2 cents!
 
Sorry but I personally like the 1.5's better as they are truly the start and built quite solidly. Also I have been noticing there are few Roadster for sale and the prices seem to be on the rise which is a nice thing for all of us. The battery warranty by itself is likely worth north of $20,000 and it will not be long before the 1.5 owners are in a position to cash in on it.

I've also noticed that salvage roadster have been going up in price too... as I've been looking for an salvage 1.5 so I can grab it's battery and it's electronics.