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How long to wait before OptiCoat / CQuartz?

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We will be taking delivery of a Model S in CA, so the paint will likely only be a few days old when we get the car. I know the general rule is that there is no need to give factory paint additional cure time prior to coating/sealing, but I've never dealt with paint this fresh. Can anybody provide insight?
 
My detailer wanted the car as soon as possible (which ended up being 1 week after delivery) to minimize any damage that may occur to the paint. He even requested that Tesla not wash the car (but Tesla insisted on washing it before delivery) so you shouldnt have much problem with the car being new.
 
We will be taking delivery of a Model S in CA, so the paint will likely only be a few days old when we get the car. I know the general rule is that there is no need to give factory paint additional cure time prior to coating/sealing, but I've never dealt with paint this fresh. Can anybody provide insight?

Factory curing of the paint is much different than body shop. Your whole car goes into an oven, bare shell, at the factory. They can bake it at much higher temps than a body shop could.

You can nano coat right away. We do it for all our clients picking them up...straight from delivery center to your detailer :)

As a side note, IMHO, go for CQuartz Finest.
 
Factory curing of the paint is much different than body shop. Your whole car goes into an oven, bare shell, at the factory. They can bake it at much higher temps than a body shop could.

You can nano coat right away. We do it for all our clients picking them up...straight from delivery center to your detailer :)

As a side note, IMHO, go for CQuartz Finest.

Excellent, thanks for the advice. I'm going to DIY, so am planning to use CQuartz UK.
 
Excellent, thanks for the advice. I'm going to DIY, so am planning to use CQuartz UK.

...DIY??? IMHO the issue is sort of analogous to painting your house...the painting part is not too hard, but the prep is very important and affects the final result. Many professional detailers (...and I am NOT one) find that, at delivery, the TM paint is far from perfect (it is CA VOC compliant and very soft). If you do not make the paint perfect, then you seal in any flaws and imperfections. Plus, with some coatings (like OptiCoat), the professional version goes on thicker and cooks off faster, allowing for thicker application on impact points. The consumer version is thinner and cures slower to allow for the 'novice' to manage to get it applied.

You just invested big $$ in your S--is it worth what you might be saving?

Please read through these forums and also over at the TM site--get fully educated.

YMMV...off the soapbox.
 
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Excellent, thanks for the advice. I'm going to DIY, so am planning to use CQuartz UK.

...DIY??? IMHO the issue is sort of analogous to painting your house...the painting part is not too hard, but the prep is very important and affects the final result. Many professional detailers (...and I am NOT one) find that, at delivery, the TM paint is far from perfect (it is CA VOC compliant and very soft). If you do not make the paint perfect, then you seal in any flaws and imperfections. Plus, with some coatings (like OptiCoat), the professional version goes on thicker and cooks off faster, allowing for thicker application on impact points. The consumer version is thinner and cures slower to allow for the 'novice' to manage to get it applied.

You just invested big $$ in your S--is it worth what you might be saving?

Please read through these forums and also over at the TM site--get fully educated.

YMMV...off the soapbox.

I concur with JPP. I took my new P85+ to a professional detailer about 1 week after I drove it down the California coast from the factory in Fremont. Surface prep is everything. The Telsa paint is soft to comply with the VOC emissions regulations in California, and there will be imperfections in the new paint finish. My detailer performed so-called "paint correction". After paint correction, my Telsa had a very different finish to "as delivered", a deep mirror sheen with no swirl marks in the clear coat. My detailer then applied CQuartz-FINEST to seal the finish, and the result is nothing short of spectacular IMHO.

TMS Finish.jpeg


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I noticed that the OP is in San Diego too. For the record, I took the car to Elite Finish Detailing (Auto Detailing |Elite Finish Detailing) in San Diego. I highly recommend Wes and his team. This is an amazing expensive vehicle and deserves the best care.
 
...DIY??? IMHO the issue is sort of analogous to painting your house...the painting part is not too hard, but the prep is very important and affects the final result. Many professional detailers (...and I am NOT one) find that, at delivery, the TM paint is far from perfect (it is CA VOC compliant and very soft). If you do not make the paint perfect, then you seal in any flaws and imperfections. Plus, with some coatings (like OptiCoat), the professional version goes on thicker and cooks off faster, allowing for thicker application on impact points. The consumer version is thinner and cures slower to allow for the 'novice' to manage to get it applied.

You just invested big $$ in your S--is it worth what you might be saving?

Please read through these forums and also over at the TM site--get fully educated.

YMMV...off the soapbox.

Quite a soapbox considering that you have no idea what my detailing experience and capabilities are. I'm more than comfortable getting the paint 100% perfect prior to application.
 
Quite a soapbox considering that you have no idea what my detailing experience and capabilities are. I'm more than comfortable getting the paint 100% perfect prior to application.


Lionel, I think it's fantastic you're doing this yourself, and CQ UK is probably one of the best available coatings to DIY, and pro, market.

But as others have illuded, there is a learning curve. Any nano coating, requires the paint to be near flawless. This requires machine polishing. Even the best tesla paint we've seen, needed a minor polishing with a DA. Then comes prep for nano. The surface must be super clean. So make sure to get CarPro Eraser and wipe the paint really well.

Then comes applying CQ UK...it's very dependant on ambient temp and humidity. Luckily, you're here in SoCal, and we've been having great weather the last few days. I'm use to applying Finest, and it's a little different than UK. UK is a bit thicker I think, but keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't flash too fast. If it does, and you'll know this because you'll have streaks that you cannot wipe off anymore, not a big deal. Just polish again, and re-apply UK.

Make sure to bake after applying. Ideally a warm/hot day for a few hours. This allows the solvents in UK to flash and adds more durability and the gloss increases as well.

Get some reload while you're at it...excellent post-wash maintenance nano spray sealant.

Hope this helps.

As other have already mentioned, if you decide to use a pro, Wes at Elite is one of the best.
 
Thanks a bunch for the tips on CQ UK. I understand that it can be finnicky--as long as it doesn't get too hot this weekend, I think the flash times ought to be workable.

On the correction/cleaning, I'm in good shape. These are the last set of cars I've maintained--the Audi was in great shape to start but the Honda and Lexus were restored from fully-trashed paint.

DSC_7472-L.jpg


DSC_7854-L.jpg


i-493vzf7-L.jpg
 
Okay I'll bite, why? What's better/different about it?

IMHO:

1. Finest has a much better "shine" and depth than OCP..OCP looks muted and sterile. Metallics look slightly duller and metal flakes don't "pop" as much as Finest
2. Finest "feels" more slick. It's a true "nano" technology. Technology more "cutting-edge".
3. Finest network of installers have a better support system from manufacturer.
4. Finest Installers must maintain a level of client satisfaction, customer service, and technical ability. Not anyone can join the group even if they want. There is a strict guideline of who can join and it's partly based on reputation, skill, and upholding the high standards of the group

As of last month, OCP is no longer lifetime warranty, now 5 years. Those that had it installed prior to last month still get the lifetime warranty, but their installer may no longer carry the product. Optimum, makers of OCP, has made some business-level changes and actions that have turned away some of their most talented installers. Some of those installers are now Finest Installers.

No doubt, OCP, is still a superior product, but reasons 3 and 4 are two big reasons why I feel CQuartz is the better VALUE for the client
 
I'll also go out on a limb and say that it's unlikely a daily driver will stay swirl free, so the "permanent" nature of OCP is a moot point as any "enthusiast" will likely have their car polished in 2-4 years to remove any wash instilled marring/defects.

I will also go on the record to state that my OCP coated black MS does not look as "glossy" as a C1+EVO coated MS in black. I have yet to see a black MS coated in Cquartz.
 
Had my Opticoat applied about a year ago. No wax or other coating since. Still beads up like crazy. My detailer offered CQuartz Finest too, and I agree it looked "glossier" than Opticoat. He said it wouldn't last as long as Opticoat though. Here's a recent shot of my Pano roof.

Roof.JPG
 
Had my Opticoat applied about a year ago. No wax or other coating since. Still beads up like crazy. My detailer offered CQuartz Finest too, and I agree it looked "glossier" than Opticoat. He said it wouldn't last as long as Opticoat though. Here's a recent shot of my Pano roof.

View attachment 59968

That looks very good. If you use CQuartz Reload, the durability of any nano coating is further prolonged.
 
I'd do it ASAP, especially given you're in CA. The fresh paint and low lead times between painting and delivery means the paint is EXTREMELY soft when you take delivery. I scratched the area around my license plate with, literally, the soft skin of my knuckle (no dirt on paint, it was freshly washed). Even after OptiCoat, the finish was really susceptible to damage for about a month. Since then it's been much more robust.

To summarize: coat immediately, then try to touch it as little as possible for at least a month. :smile:
 
I just took delivery and the detailer with whom I have scheduled paint correction work with is one of the Opti-Coat installers who decided to no longer work with Optimum. Since I'm primarily interested in longevity, he'll still be able to do OCP for me with the supply he has left. I'm not discriminating enough on the paint visuals to probably notice the difference between OCP and CQuartz and I would go either way based on what I've read. I'm also having his partner throw on XPEL on my front end.

Since my detailer is a stone's throw away from the factory (and a bit behind schedule with his other clients), Tesla was nice enough to let me keep the car at the delivery center (parked outside) until his schedule opens up in a week since my home is ten miles away. I'd rather wait on driving it rather than risk the rock chips and bug hits. Fresh paint is inevitably a magnet for all things dirty. Tesla also honored my request to not wash the car prior to delivery and did not require me to sign the release form I've read about elsewhere.

By the way, if you're curious about the whole OCP business change causing many installers to look elsewhere, Google up "Autopia OCP is now the only Opti-Coat" and you can read through the lengthy thread. I won't link it here.