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Door switch.

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A way to access that circuit is removing the roll bar liner and the dome light housing. There is a thread showing all the pitfalls and folly of this approach but it can be done. The thread is about placing a red LED light in the dome light housing that let's you know when the brake light is on during regen.

Why? What ya thinking?
 
I'm adding an auto dimming rear view mirror with map lights. I was going to pick up the door switch near the fuse box so it will turn the map lights on when the door opens. I can't seem to figure out which wire is the switch.

Come to think of it, I don't even know where the switch is! Is it in the latch or the actuator or...? I tested all the wires coming out of the door. It should read 12-14 V with the door open and the light on, and 0 V with the door closed. None of them goes to zero? What am I missing?
 
The 12 volt system that powers the dome light, trunk light, various other things not retailed to the main battery pack has a delay before shutting down after the car is off and goes to sleep. The door will open and wake the car up firing up the separate 12 volt system you are trying to tie into. When the door closes the system continues running on a time delay until it decides to turn off! Opening the trunk, charge port door will also wake the car up. If you have a Tattler or OVMS sending a request usually also wakes the system up. It's not like an ICE car that has a little push-button switch made in Croatia.......... No pun intended since some Tesla (Lotus) parts were made in Romania:eek:
It's the door handle that activated the light........ and the 12 volt power will continue for a few minutes after the car is "off" so you won't get a "0" reading on your voltmeter until some time after the door is closed. That's why I mentioned the dome light as an entry point but one guy fron UK used the 12volt socket in the center console to hook up a subwoofer. I have found the 12 volt system a little twitchy and decided not to screw around with it when hooking up accessories.
 
I have found the 12 volt system a little twitchy and decided not to screw around with it when hooking up accessories.

Thanks. I was going to ask you about that. But the interior light goes off after a few seconds once you close the door, even though the car has not gone to sleep. How is it that the interior light shuts off, or "on" for that matter, when the car is opened from the inside with the car on? There has to be a switch that senses the status of the door.

I did tie into the third brake light for a "fourth" (interior rear view) brake light, but I didn't want to run wire all the way back from the dome to the windshield. I was also going to try splicing in additional antenna wire across the top of the windshield and down the drivers A-pillar. Not sure if this will help with the horrible reception.
 
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What do they do?

Anything special antenna wire? I was thinking about using antenna from home stereo.

They don't do anything special, they relocate the antenna that's now extended/logner and route it up the passenger sill. Is your Roadster still under warranty? If not you can try calling/making an appointment to have your antenna re-routed due to poor radio reception under the silent recall.
 
They don't do anything special, they relocate the antenna that's now extended/logner and route it up the passenger sill. Is your Roadster still under warranty? If not you can try calling/making an appointment to have your antenna re-routed due to poor radio reception under the silent recall.

Yes. I'll be doing this the next time the car is in the shop. Which hopefully wont be soon...