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Yeah I keep getting that, then Tesla replaces my UMC, then a few months later it fails again. I'm on my third UMC. When it happens I press in on the charge connector until it latches properly. Usually works. I'm trying to get them to replace my charge port, which is way too tight and I think is damaging the connector.
Vger
Active Member
My charge port was very tight (same batch as yours) and Tesla service replaced it without question months ago. No issues since.
I guess we are really lucky to have our sterling service manager in Vancouver!
My third UMC is rapidly going downhill now. It's getting hard to successfully plug it in. This one is going downhill much faster than the first two.
Also it was pretty obviously a refurb; there was significant cosmetic damage on the handle when it came "new" out of the box.
Also it was pretty obviously a refurb; there was significant cosmetic damage on the handle when it came "new" out of the box.
It misbehaved on 110V too, so it's nothing to do with the adapter. Tesla replaced the UMC and charge port today. I had a lot of trouble getting it to charge last night so the timing was very good. Hopefully it will now behave itself.
Interestingly I had my charge port do a quick lock/unlock/re-lock along with colors cycling from white(lt blue?) to dark blue and back when plugging in my HPWC last night. Typically it's just a single transition to locked.
I unplugged it and re-seated it in case I hadn't made a good connection, and it did the same thing.
The charge port went green, do it appeared ok and I left it after double checking via VT that I had a good pilot current reading. I was curious to see this morning if it had charged successfully, and it had.
At no time did mine go red, however.
I unplugged it and re-seated it in case I hadn't made a good connection, and it did the same thing.
The charge port went green, do it appeared ok and I left it after double checking via VT that I had a good pilot current reading. I was curious to see this morning if it had charged successfully, and it had.
At no time did mine go red, however.
bsd
Member
I had been having these same clicking and colour-cycling symptoms for several weeks, but wanted to hold off calling the SC until I'd been able to swap out my winter tires. And wouldn't you know it, the problems resolved themselves the day I swapped the tires. Maybe the car just wanted a change of wardrobe...
I'm getting it tonight too. Notice that when this happens and I finally get it to charge, only charges at 22 mi/hr. Usually 30. Hmmm. Started screwing around with the way I open port ie:via controls or battery icon. Door open/close. Can't find pattern. Btw-look at speedometer when you hear clicking. Says charge cable fault
Peter_M
Member
I've had similar problems for a few weeks. At home with the HPWC, I had one day when I couldn't get it to connect at all (lots of clicking and changing charge port colours), but the UMC was OK. That mysteriously resolved itself but if I wiggle the handle after plugging in (without pushing the button), it will still disconnect. Today at the Mississauga SC, they tried their UMC and HPWC and both worked fine, so it appears the charge port is OK. Next I'm going to get the HPWC cable replaced.
My suspicion is that when this happens the pilot signal isn't engaging reliably. In my case I think perhaps a misaligned pin in my charge port was gradually damaging the mating pin on my UMC connector, resulting in poor contact. This is one of the little pins at the bottom, not the two big power pins.
The failure was progressive each time it happened. At first I'd get an occasional clack-clack. Then I'd start getting frequent clacking and then red rings. Sometimes the current would also back down to 30A. Also the problem seemed to be progressing more quickly. The first time the UMC worked normally for 4-5 months, then the problem developed over a couple of months. My last UMC worked for two months and then went from its first clack to serious problems in less than two weeks.
I'm now on my fourth UMC and have a new charge port. It's working okay, hopefully this time it will stay that way.
The failure was progressive each time it happened. At first I'd get an occasional clack-clack. Then I'd start getting frequent clacking and then red rings. Sometimes the current would also back down to 30A. Also the problem seemed to be progressing more quickly. The first time the UMC worked normally for 4-5 months, then the problem developed over a couple of months. My last UMC worked for two months and then went from its first clack to serious problems in less than two weeks.
I'm now on my fourth UMC and have a new charge port. It's working okay, hopefully this time it will stay that way.
All was good until I was at a supercharger a few days ago. Put it in and all was fine. After finishing, I couldn't release the supercharger plug despite the white ring. My body tried and got it out. He said he had to wiggle it a bit. Is wiggling a no no? Did that bend components now causing problems?
Interesting, folks are getting current reduction after this as well. I also got dropped to 30A, which I posted about HERE. In that post I mentioned I also got a dash charging error also.
The pilot signal contact was something I had thought of as well... but that would seem odd, as the pilot is a PWM signal... it would seem that while a bad connection could lessen the current/voltage that might pass, it wouldn't reduce the pulse width...
I'll keep an eye on it...
The pilot signal contact was something I had thought of as well... but that would seem odd, as the pilot is a PWM signal... it would seem that while a bad connection could lessen the current/voltage that might pass, it wouldn't reduce the pulse width...
I'll keep an eye on it...
Just happened. This one didn't reduce the amp limit. Stayed at 40.
Charger issue: Charger issue - YouTube
Charger issue: Charger issue - YouTube
In my case, service said that there was a problem with the button in the handle. When functioning normally, depressing the button half way engages the locking mechanism and starts charging. Depressing the button fully unlocks and releases the handle. In some units, this button is defective and engages/disengages without user input, thereby confusing the car and causing the charge port anomalies.
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