I thought I would share some of the things I have done with my Roadster 2.5 to attack squeaks, rattles and noise. None of it, of course, makes the Roadster a quiet car either topless or with the lid on. But the effort has made a difference.
Sqeaks. I noticed plastic upon plastic types of squeaks from the dash, particularly in more humid weather. A while back, I replaced the Alpine radio with a Kenwood DNX6990HD to much satisfaction (Replacement of Alpine IVA-NAV-10). To minimize the squeaks from the dash area, when putting the dash back together I used 3M Squeak Reduction Tape which I ordered from Digi-Key Corporation. It is not cheap but it fixes squeaks like a charm. This is the 3M Product Sheet and here is a table of available widths and lengths for the squeak reduction tape.
Prior to removing the Roadster dash, I ordered some replacement airbag cover clips which break when removing the airbag cover. Tesla sells them for $4+ per clip (4 are needed), but they are the same clips used in the Elise which is Lotus Part No. B121U0117F. I found them at Steel Wings for $1.88 each so I got 8 for $15.04 (better to order 4 extra in the event the dash ever needs to be opened again).
Rattles. My latest rattle quest started with a rattle appearing to come from the middle of the Roadster’s dash but only with the roof on and A/C running. After determining it was not the roof, I initially tried pulling out the radio and exploring whether there were any errant wires or connectors that could be causing the rattle. Searching the forum I found nothing that would point me in the right direction other than the comment in Tesla/Lotus Differences that “the stuff that rattles and squeaks is Lotus, while the rest is Tesla …”!
So I embarked on a search of Lotus forums and discovered that the A/C pipes running up beside the right-hand footwell will rattle while the A/C is on. To get to those A/C pipes, I needed to pull some of the dash. I figured that if I am going to pull some of the dash to get to the footwell cavity, I might as well do a little sound deadening at the same time. Thus, the project I describe below to install sound deadening as well as track down a few rattles. For rattles, I found that ½” or ¾” Polyethylene Pipe Wrap Insulation works well to cover loose wire connections and possible sources of rattles.
Sound Deadening. In order to try to track down the latest rattle, I opened up the dash again and while there, made sure all connections were either tied down with wire ties, were solidly fastened with Velcro, or covered in ½” or ¾” Polyethylene Pipe Wrap Insulation.
For sound deadening, I used Dynamat Extreme (the Dynamat roller also really helps with Dynamat installation). I used almost seven of the nine Dynamat sheets in the bulk pack without putting any in the interior cabin (I have yet to do the doors).
The areas behind the post-trim panels (the area to the left of the driver’s footwell behind the headlight switch and the area to the right of the passenger’s footwell behind the fuse panel cover) are large areas in which Dynamat was put on the insides of the fenders and wheel wells. While in there, the rather large connection for the electronics for each door just hangs there and could be a source of a rattle so I put ¾” Polyethylene Pipe Wrap Insulation around each door wire electrical connection and put some pipe wrap around one of the A/C tubes in the passengers side which looked way too close to the other tube and seemed to have the potential to vibrate. All of the auxiliary electronics for the Alpine radio are behind the driver’s post-trim panel so a check there to be sure nothing is loose is also good as nothing is tied down but rather several different modules are held in by a foam block with cut-outs (I removed all of these when I put in the Kenwood radio). While in the dash, I put strips of Dynamat on the plastic A/C ventilation tubes.
I have seen the postings where Roadster owners have just about completely covered the interior cabin with Dynamat or other sound-deadening products. Since I have the 2.5, I figured there likely is a good amount of sound deadening materials in the cabin already. Rather, I looked for areas in the Roadster where a large expanse of metal, plastic or carbon fiber was likely to act like a drum while going over bumps and road defects.
I first worked under the rear of the Roadster where there is a large metal plate held on with a number of bolts. To get underneath the rear of the Roadster, I used RhinoGear Ramps available from AutoZone or from Amazon which work fine for backing up the Roadster (they will not work as ramps for the front wheels). With the rear wheels up on the RhinoGear Ramps, and a pair of RhinoGear Wheel Chocks holding the front wheels, I was able to unfasten the rear metal plate.
The large rear underside metal plate has two small strips of sound deadening material on it already but it still sounded hollow when I knocked on it. I put three ½ sheets of Dynamat on it. Also under the rear, there is a large plastic tray under the battery pack that made a hollow sound. A sheet of Dynamat was applied there. There is a cross bar that “sings” (like a tuning fork) when tapped upon, and Dynamat was wrapped around that bar. Having the rear plate off allows access to the wheel wells in front of the rear wheels. Sheets of Dynamat went in there on the wheel wells and on the inside of the rear fenders. Also, in front of the right hand rear wheel, I found a large cable that appeared to have the potential to bounce on the frame so a length of the ½” Polyethylene Pipe Wrap Insulation went around that.
The front underside metal plate also had a hollow sound when knocked on. To get under the front to remove that plate, I jacked up each side of the Roadster and put the ramps under the front wheels since it is not possible to roll the Roadster up on the ramps. While under the front with the car resting on the ramps, I also found portions of carbon fiber that made hollow sounds when knocked upon. There was also the stabilizer bar that sung when tapped so Dynamat went around it. I then used jack stands in the front to remove each front wheel and apply Dynamat on the top of the fender and on the rear of the wheel well behind the wheel arch liners there.
Under the front hood, I put a few strips of Dynamat on underside of the interior plastic divider that is between the A/C and the brake master cylinder/electronics and while that plastic divider was off, I discovered an electrical connection going to the A/C unit that was loose and might rattle. I used a wire tie to fasten that electrical connector down.
I have yet to go inside the doors and use the remaining 2½ sheets of Dynamat there. None of the Dynamat installed is visible.
Observations. The Roadster definitely has a more solid sound to it while driving, particularly with the top down. There is much less of a “tin-can” sound going over road imperfections and larger bumps. The difference is less than I expected with the top on which may be due to the sound deadening materials already in the 2.5 cabin but the rattle I had from the middle of the dash is gone and Roadster also sounds more solid with the top on.
Sqeaks. I noticed plastic upon plastic types of squeaks from the dash, particularly in more humid weather. A while back, I replaced the Alpine radio with a Kenwood DNX6990HD to much satisfaction (Replacement of Alpine IVA-NAV-10). To minimize the squeaks from the dash area, when putting the dash back together I used 3M Squeak Reduction Tape which I ordered from Digi-Key Corporation. It is not cheap but it fixes squeaks like a charm. This is the 3M Product Sheet and here is a table of available widths and lengths for the squeak reduction tape.
Prior to removing the Roadster dash, I ordered some replacement airbag cover clips which break when removing the airbag cover. Tesla sells them for $4+ per clip (4 are needed), but they are the same clips used in the Elise which is Lotus Part No. B121U0117F. I found them at Steel Wings for $1.88 each so I got 8 for $15.04 (better to order 4 extra in the event the dash ever needs to be opened again).
Rattles. My latest rattle quest started with a rattle appearing to come from the middle of the Roadster’s dash but only with the roof on and A/C running. After determining it was not the roof, I initially tried pulling out the radio and exploring whether there were any errant wires or connectors that could be causing the rattle. Searching the forum I found nothing that would point me in the right direction other than the comment in Tesla/Lotus Differences that “the stuff that rattles and squeaks is Lotus, while the rest is Tesla …”!
So I embarked on a search of Lotus forums and discovered that the A/C pipes running up beside the right-hand footwell will rattle while the A/C is on. To get to those A/C pipes, I needed to pull some of the dash. I figured that if I am going to pull some of the dash to get to the footwell cavity, I might as well do a little sound deadening at the same time. Thus, the project I describe below to install sound deadening as well as track down a few rattles. For rattles, I found that ½” or ¾” Polyethylene Pipe Wrap Insulation works well to cover loose wire connections and possible sources of rattles.
Sound Deadening. In order to try to track down the latest rattle, I opened up the dash again and while there, made sure all connections were either tied down with wire ties, were solidly fastened with Velcro, or covered in ½” or ¾” Polyethylene Pipe Wrap Insulation.
For sound deadening, I used Dynamat Extreme (the Dynamat roller also really helps with Dynamat installation). I used almost seven of the nine Dynamat sheets in the bulk pack without putting any in the interior cabin (I have yet to do the doors).
The areas behind the post-trim panels (the area to the left of the driver’s footwell behind the headlight switch and the area to the right of the passenger’s footwell behind the fuse panel cover) are large areas in which Dynamat was put on the insides of the fenders and wheel wells. While in there, the rather large connection for the electronics for each door just hangs there and could be a source of a rattle so I put ¾” Polyethylene Pipe Wrap Insulation around each door wire electrical connection and put some pipe wrap around one of the A/C tubes in the passengers side which looked way too close to the other tube and seemed to have the potential to vibrate. All of the auxiliary electronics for the Alpine radio are behind the driver’s post-trim panel so a check there to be sure nothing is loose is also good as nothing is tied down but rather several different modules are held in by a foam block with cut-outs (I removed all of these when I put in the Kenwood radio). While in the dash, I put strips of Dynamat on the plastic A/C ventilation tubes.
I have seen the postings where Roadster owners have just about completely covered the interior cabin with Dynamat or other sound-deadening products. Since I have the 2.5, I figured there likely is a good amount of sound deadening materials in the cabin already. Rather, I looked for areas in the Roadster where a large expanse of metal, plastic or carbon fiber was likely to act like a drum while going over bumps and road defects.
I first worked under the rear of the Roadster where there is a large metal plate held on with a number of bolts. To get underneath the rear of the Roadster, I used RhinoGear Ramps available from AutoZone or from Amazon which work fine for backing up the Roadster (they will not work as ramps for the front wheels). With the rear wheels up on the RhinoGear Ramps, and a pair of RhinoGear Wheel Chocks holding the front wheels, I was able to unfasten the rear metal plate.
The large rear underside metal plate has two small strips of sound deadening material on it already but it still sounded hollow when I knocked on it. I put three ½ sheets of Dynamat on it. Also under the rear, there is a large plastic tray under the battery pack that made a hollow sound. A sheet of Dynamat was applied there. There is a cross bar that “sings” (like a tuning fork) when tapped upon, and Dynamat was wrapped around that bar. Having the rear plate off allows access to the wheel wells in front of the rear wheels. Sheets of Dynamat went in there on the wheel wells and on the inside of the rear fenders. Also, in front of the right hand rear wheel, I found a large cable that appeared to have the potential to bounce on the frame so a length of the ½” Polyethylene Pipe Wrap Insulation went around that.
The front underside metal plate also had a hollow sound when knocked on. To get under the front to remove that plate, I jacked up each side of the Roadster and put the ramps under the front wheels since it is not possible to roll the Roadster up on the ramps. While under the front with the car resting on the ramps, I also found portions of carbon fiber that made hollow sounds when knocked upon. There was also the stabilizer bar that sung when tapped so Dynamat went around it. I then used jack stands in the front to remove each front wheel and apply Dynamat on the top of the fender and on the rear of the wheel well behind the wheel arch liners there.
Under the front hood, I put a few strips of Dynamat on underside of the interior plastic divider that is between the A/C and the brake master cylinder/electronics and while that plastic divider was off, I discovered an electrical connection going to the A/C unit that was loose and might rattle. I used a wire tie to fasten that electrical connector down.
I have yet to go inside the doors and use the remaining 2½ sheets of Dynamat there. None of the Dynamat installed is visible.
Observations. The Roadster definitely has a more solid sound to it while driving, particularly with the top down. There is much less of a “tin-can” sound going over road imperfections and larger bumps. The difference is less than I expected with the top on which may be due to the sound deadening materials already in the 2.5 cabin but the rattle I had from the middle of the dash is gone and Roadster also sounds more solid with the top on.
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