Hi everyone. So I'm driving along in my 1.5 happily and I drove over a big bump on the highway. Soon thereafter the screen said "Battery problem, reduced power." So the battery was holding it's charge fine and I continued to work. About 45 minutes later the Fault light goes on and the screen reads "Connection error (or problem) reduced power." Then 15 minutes later while in the left lane of the hwy the car just died. Fortunately the drivers let me get over to the should on the far right. I called Tesla service and they sent a tow truck. While waiting I was able to start the car back up but figured the tow truck was coming and want to make sure the problem gets fixed. I wonder if the bump jarred loose a connection wire to the battery? I'll keep you posted!
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Just curious why you didn't call Tesla right away instead of driving for another hour or so?
I wasn't in the best part of town and was hoping that I could make it safely to work. Perhaps a lapse in judgment but it certainly got me closer to my destination and the car was driving fine initally despite the initial warning.
wiztecy
Active Member
I had a similar issue with my original pack, it was rooted to the auxilary battery pack (only the 1.5s have this) that's inside the main pack itself. With mine the car cut out while I was 3 blocks away from my house in a store parking lot. It did this 4 times in a row and on the 5th try I was able to get home. Called Tesla, they wanted me to drive the car to them. I said noway, I'm not having a car cut out on me and leave me stranded on a blind turn... so they sent a flatbed out. Scary watching it load... They did a battery replacement with a refurbished pack under warranty which was nice. However the pack they put in never charged up to the numbers my original pack did. I then started seeing my range dropping on each charge. I looked at CAC and it was falling and well below my original pack. So I contacted them, they viewed the logs, and now scheduled for another refurbished pack swap.
If you pack gets swapped keep track of your original and previous CACs. Also keep an eye on it for a few weeks.... with the refurbished packs they need some time to equalize and balance and you'll see your range increase from a very low starting point. But after the pack's balanced then what you see is what you get in terms of range and CAC.
If you pack gets swapped keep track of your original and previous CACs. Also keep an eye on it for a few weeks.... with the refurbished packs they need some time to equalize and balance and you'll see your range increase from a very low starting point. But after the pack's balanced then what you see is what you get in terms of range and CAC.
pharma5
Roadster F#25, Model 3 #36xx
Bart, sorry to hear about the issue.
Hopefully it is just a connection that Tesla can fix, and does not actually require a full pack swap. When the warranty is there, i think they do the full pack swap because it's their bread & butter... more time to look at it and shorter / more rigorous solution for the customer. The one taken out goes through refurb / requalification and hopefully put back into inventory. (Fast pack swapping is of course part of the paradigm from Model S forward...)
If it's a full swap, we may finally find out what a refurb pack costs. If it's not a "good" number, maybe throw yourself on the mercy of the court in Service about the battery warranty you meant to get as a newbie owner and see if they'll sign you up and do the work for that number... may require appeals up the chain of command, perhaps all the way to Jerome.
Backup plan: offer free services as a beta tester for a pack with upgraded cells...???
dhrivnak
Active Member
Without the error codes I cannot be sure but one morning I had my car die 6 times in a 3 mile stretch. Not fun at all. I was alternating between a sheet failure and battery voltage. Never found out the true problem as I then charged for the day and all has been good. So maybe like a Windows PC you need to do a reboot.
Now that turned out to be a very costly failure as I was 1 week past my warranty. So I purchased an extra two years of battery warranty for peace of mind. I can cover the other parts but I can't afford a new battery.
Now that turned out to be a very costly failure as I was 1 week past my warranty. So I purchased an extra two years of battery warranty for peace of mind. I can cover the other parts but I can't afford a new battery.
had the same problem when hitting a big bump the problem is not hard to figure there is a safety switch when you crash your car it's shut down and that probely would happen when hitting that big bump. Tesla then replaces the pack because that's the fatest way for them too geth you back on track because that's switch is in the pack and it's costs more time too replace the switch then just replace the battery pack.
